I'm cleaning up the front area and yes - I got off the front fascia, no problem, thanks for all suggestions earlier!!!

1. Now, I'm considering replacing the radiator - what is best, stock plastic or new brass radiator???

2. Does anyone know HOW to get the old radiator out?
It's a crowded area under the front, there are lots of parts.
I can see the fan cowl.

3. Does the fan cowl have to come out in order to get to the radiator?

Also, I thought I saw the radiator firsthand, but I think maybe what I'm looking at is part of the airconditioning system?

4. Is there a part of the AC system that are mounted in the same area (in front of?) the radiator?

A quick tip for anybody wanting something to clean the stainless but without the expense of 3M stainless polish, or the sticky residue left by baby oil....

Try WD40

I have been using it for sometime now and it leaves a nice even finish, doesn't attract insects, minimises finger prints and a tin goes a -long- way

Hi Everyone

After 4 weeks of waiting my new fully Stainless Steel exhaust system arrived.

As you can see it is rather nice.....



I went for a system that did not have any CAT's as it is legal in Northern Ireland to drive a pre 91' car without a CAT, although you can also get this system with CAT's. As you can see it was very well made and includes this nice screw insert for the Lambda Sensor, this system also removes the restrictive cross-over pipe and free's up alot more horse power.....



I went for the semi loud system, they do two others, quiet and loud, I have heard the loud and it is way over the top. Again look at the quality of the workmanship on the tailpipes.....



It was made for me by a company in England called Stainless Exhaust Specialists, you can find more about them and their Delorean system at
www.stainless-exhaust.com

Hope you like the pictures, there will be more when I get it all fitted in a week or so.

I am about (hopefully) to remove my dash from my car (binnacle allready out) I did view a 'how to' somewhere that mentioned that you had to remove all the centre consol first. Is this correct or can it be done with the consol in place :?:
Does any one have any tips, ideas, on removing this part. It's badly sun damaged and is going for refurb BTW.
Thanks peeps
Chris

Hi everyone

I wanted to replace the rear speakers on my car as they where shot but did not fancy ripping off the plastic cover as I have heard that its a nightmare.

I wanted a way of getting a new set in that did not involve taking this panel off and also did not mean cutting any holes in the car.

If you take off the two wooden boards that cover the fuse box and the engine ECU you can feel under the panel that covers the rear speakers. You can feel speaker wire and if you want to you can pull this wire on both sides and it will pop of the speaker and you can then feed the wire out from under the cover. I managed to pull out about 4 feet of the stuff from both sides!!

This gave me with two options.

1.) make a new rear bulkhead board that I could mount a set of speakers.
2.) make something totaly different.

I went with the later option of making something totaly different and this is what I did.

I bought a pieced of MDF and using the piece of carpet that covers the rear deck as a template I cut the wood to this shape. I bought a 10cm hole cutter and cut two holes in it. I then bought a length of dark grey acoustic carpet and stuck it to the wood and stapled it at the back.

I bought a set of 10cm Kenwood 100watt speakers and mounted them in the two holes I had cut.

Now I suppose you are thinking that the board I have cut is now going to lie flat on the rear parcel shelf and the speakers are going to lift it up so that it sites above the lip, I knew this would happen and purposly made the board 1.5" longer than the old carpet was, this way when I put the board in the car it stuck about 3" up from the base of the parcel shelf giving the speakers loads of room and directing the sound more at the back of the drivers head. This also meant that the rear shelf can still be used to store stuff.

The shelf works perfectly and the board hides the speaker wire underneath and I can remove the board at anytime and return the car to stock. I will take some pictures of the board and you can see for yourself that it was a cheap and easy way of getting some decent sound in the car.

Hi all

I will be replacing the exhaust system on pilot25 in a week or so with the stainless system from Stainless-exhaust.com.

If anyone is after a 6410 mile exhaust then give me a shout.

It will be cheap cheap cheap and it comes with the cat bypass pipe aswell.

Hi all

Just fitted Pilot25 with a fresh set of rubber shoes.

Pirelli P600 for the back and P6000 for the front or is that the other way around :?:

Anyhow, they are a great tyre and they seem to hold the road much better than the "no brand name" tyre I had on before.

All in it was £350 which was not to bad I suppose seeing as the rear wheel size of 235 is hard to get.

New brake discs should be arriving next week from Martin and then I can replace my brake lines with the stainless ones I bought at Eurofest and I should have much better stopping power.

I'm changing my slave clutch cylinder.
On the old one it seems that the sealing washer between the clutchline and slave are made of copper. But the replacement I got is plastic.

Can someone please explain this? Have I gotten the wrong part? Or has my car had the wrong part on to begin with? (Perhaps that is why my clutch has been terribly stiff!)

How does one go about removing the screws which fasten the side skirts.
The rusty screws are impossible to loosen since they seem to - over time - have welded themselves to the body rivnuts (aluminium?)

I guess the procedure would be to drill them out, but then again, how do you install new rivnuts in the body? Do I need a special tool?

Does the club or perhaps Dave Howarth have a stock PRV-V6 for sale?