Hi All,
        In need of a bit of help please. 
I have been working on the stuttering under load problem on my car.
Good news is that I have completely fixed that problem. Turned out to be injectors and CPR. 
New injectors and CPR sorted it. I also replaced the metering head while I was at it as it had been replaced in the States with a B28F Volvo unit by PO.

I got the CO set at 1.5%. Lambda disconnected.

Car starts perfect from cold. 
Car would not start from hot without lots of cranking. Even if only left for a minute.

I suspected the special t new style fuel pump check valve (as the similar unit from DMCH has had check valve issues). I installed a brass inline check valve. 
Problem was still there.

Next likely culprit fuel accumulator. One item I had replaced 16 years ago so possible it had failed again. Upon testing it had a slight leak.
New accumulator fitted. 
Problem is still there.

I have found that when the key is turned the first time to position 2 the fuel pump does not prime. Subsequent turning to position 2 always primes the pump. So if I rock the key to position 2 and back to 1, back to 2 and the fuel pump primes and then to position 3 and car starts perfectly.

Anybody have any ideas on the likely fault? Maybe RPM relay?

Many thanks
Nick H

On Saturday whist out in the car, a noise and an accompanying sudden vibration developed one the car.  I've no idea what it is and have yet to investigate.  The noise, which is like a strained metallic click/crunch type noise happens when going round roundabouts. The click comes when turning left, then the crunch happens when immediately turning right again, except the crunch is accompanied by a corresponding "lurch" feeling of the rear end.  It's quite disconcerting.  I'm wondering if it's trailing arm related, as this is what it feels like.  Anyone had this before in the past at all?

Does anyone have a front fascia support bracket they have spare?
Mine is missing and I want to spend some time closing some large gaps on my front fascia.

I could make a bracket, it’s only an “L” shape - so if anyone has the dimensions, I’d appreciate that as an alternative.

Cheers
Tris.

Cant remember which thread I commented on with some old photos, but have managed to find some more....

PUM436 was at the West Midlands Motor Museum - which was around the same time that Supercar Sunday was on, the highlight of which was the arrival of the Delorean Cavalcade... a couple of pictures attached too - dating back to around 2001 I think it was.

On another note, just got back from Florida, where I was lucky to find DMC Florida, which on the day I called (just managed to find it before closing time) had 19 (19!!!!!) in various states of service/repair/for sale - including a BTTF car on display too!!! - cant add any pictures as the files are too big!!!

Attached Files

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Not taken by me, I found it on a “spotted” Facebook group.

Looking at the info from a car check, it’s a 1983 and registered in the U.K. April 1986
Any more info on this one?
(It looks to be a right hooker.....and has a roof aerial)

Hi all,

The rev counter has never worked since I've owned the car and I think it's about time I figure it out.

It's currently sat at 5000rpm. That's with the car running and also when the car is off and battery disconnected.

I do remember that at some points it will shift to another value and sit there instead (e.g. 3k). It's never gone down to 0.

So what should I check and in what order?

I reckon it's the tachometer itself. Either have to get it repaired or buy a replacement

So after travelling for upwards of 40 miles today in the 30 degree heat, both the Mrs and I were rather hot!!
As you can guess, the aircon is not working..... my first port of call is to get her checked for leaks and recharged.
But, as I’ve read, our cars are charged with r12 gas and the newer r134a needs upgrades to the system...... question is what to do?

I don’t really want to start replacing parts of the system just yet!

I have an aircon guy I use, so I will contact him of course, but how do you guys manage with getting regassed?


Cheers
Tris

Thought I’d start a new thread on this, just in case it’s of help to anyone in the future....

In my case, the temp gauge always stayed pinned at 100f. 
The usual grounding check did nothing to the gauge when ignition was on, despite installing a new temp sender, and cleaning all connections on the bulk head.
(If you’re reading this for help, do the above first)

So, next I checked continuity between the connector on the temp sender and the connector on the bulk head, and this was fine.
(It’s the white connector nearest to the firewall under the yellow one, 3rd pin opening up on the right of the connector - or simply trace the wire colour to the pin)

Next, I checked continuity from the engine bay all the way to the binnacle. I didn’t want to remove the binnacle yet - so I performed some “on the back tests” in the footwell, seeing as all 3 connection bolts for the gauge are accessible when looking up.
With the ignition on, I checked for power on the bottom bolt (ground) and the right middle bolt (live).
Thankfully for me, there was 12v. 

This means there’s a continuity issue between the bulkhead and the gauge.

So next I ran a long cable from the engine bay connector into the car and used that to check continuity with my multimeter to the back of the gauge. 
(The sender signal bolt is the left middle bolt)
I had ZERO continuity on the bolt itself, BUT I did have good continuity on the circuit board under the nut that connects the circuit to the bolt.....

AH HA!!!!! Thankfully continuity is intact from the engine bay, from the bulk head, to the binnacle connector and the circuit board.

Now - this is were the solution is to remove the binnacle and replace the nut with a nice brass one to get a proper connection.
Whilst this IS what I will be doing - I want to get out and enjoy the car and do this over the winter.....

So I cheated..... I ran a brand new wire from the back of the gauge, through the bulk head and on to the temp sender......
Hey presto, TEMPERATURE GAUGE IS WORKING!!!!!

Wooo hoooooo!!!!

WEST BERKS CLASSIC VEHICLE CLUB
classicvehicles.org.uk
                                                                               
26th Annual
NEWBURY CLASSIC VEHICLE SHOW
NEWBURY COLLEGE
RG14 7TD
IN SUPPORT OF BLOODWISE
 
SUNDAY 12th AUGUST 2018

Dear Chris, Dave and Claire,
 
We are keen to offer your Car Club members complimentary entrance fee to exhibit their vehicles at the Epping Automotive & Aviation Revival on 6th & 7th July 2019. The event will be held at Historic North Weald Airfield in Essex and comprise of:
 
·         Heritage Aircraft & Warbirds, Classic Cars & Motor Cycles
·         Vintage Fashion, Period Dress and Music form the 20’s, 30’s and 40’s
·         WWII Re-enactment groups & their Vehicles
·         Food and Drink Festival, Funfair and Children’s Activity Area.
 
Media 10 is the company behind The Ideal Home Show, Grand Designs and The Queen’s Coronation Festival at Buckingham Palace.
 
The attached letter includes additional venue and event information as well as images from the airfield. We would be grateful if you might share this information with your members and let us know if you would like to join us.
 
Our warm regards and we look forward to hearing from you
 
Simon Polledri
Event Director
 
SW:    020 3225 5200
Email: simon.polledri@media-ten.com
Web: www.media-ten.com
Media 10 Ltd, Crown House, 151 High Road, Loughton. IG10 4LF
 
References
Her Majesty the Queen’s Coronation Festival - https://www.coronationfestival.com/
Ideal Home show - http://www.idealhomeshow.co.uk/
Grand Designs Live https://www.granddesignslive.com/
Media 10 - https://www.media-ten.com/about-us