NEWS RELEASE: 17.05.2018

Good evening,
 
The Cambridge and District Classic Car Club is again holding a classic car show on the Old Palace Green, Ely on Saturday 28 July 2018, and is welcoming all classic car owners and enthusiasts to participate.
 
The show will take place, with the generous permission of East Cambs District Council, The Kings School and Ely Cathedral, on the Old Palace Green, directly opposite the main doors of the cathedral and in front of the Bishops Palace.  Last year, over 90 classic cars from 1926 to 1996 were on the green and the event helped raise funds for our chosen charity. Fine weather has been booked.
 
Registration is through the attached form, sent either by post or scanned by e-mail, and donations are invited for our chosen charity for 2018/19, Prostate Cancer UK.
 
I hope you will be able to join us, either as a returning participant or a new entrant, and also spread news of the event to your friends and fellow enthusiasts.




Best regards

Roger Carr
Chair, Cambridge and District Classic Car Club
www.cdccc.org.uk
01763 209150
07795 242323

Effort #1 - it fired up and ran on 3 or 4 cylinders . Initially I was ecstatic thinking an adjustment here and there would get it all ok? I posted on here saying that it was "Alive", well be that as it may, but it was "under the weather"!

Effort #2 I got nowhere - wouldn't even run!

Effort #3 Investigation showed that a PO had put in the distributor "a lot of" degrees out . the valve clearances were tight. and (my fault) a vac leak was spotted on the w pipe - which was not seated correctly and a turn of the distributor - it caught and it burst into life and revved nicely too.

Will now do some minor work to the engine - check for leaks - swop the rad and expansion tanks over for the new ones I have - onwards and upwards or in my case downwards as I will take the car off the concrete blocks.

https://youtu.be/5Ca2B5Bo_m4

Does anyone have or know where to get an owners manual and vinyl wallet?

I used to have one before I owned a D...... I subsequently sold it.... arrrffgg lol

Obviously Houston has them..... but shipping is extortionate!

Cheers
Tris

Hi,
     Does anybody have the Bosch part number or cross ref. for the Distributor vacuum advance unit/diaphragm. DMC part 102684.
Pretty sure mine is toast.

Many thanks
Nick H

Anyone know who's showing their car?  I would have like to have attended this show.  Pity I can't.

https://www.edinburghnews.scotsman.com/n...741939/amp

Hi all,

So I finally had some time today to look into my dim low beam issue.

All 3 wires were in the wrong place on the connector! Seems whoever installed the Hella lights swapped the high beam with ground instead of low beam with ground.

I also checked the fuse box, and the low beam fuse is completely melted. I assume it might have happened due to the wiring being incorrect?

Fuse 7 has been messed with as well but that's for another discussion.

So what would people suggest? Am I ok to just sort the wiring for both the lights, replace the fuse and test?

Or should I do something else as well?

   

Here's a quick question (yeah right).  In order to check properly, you have to remove the air filter box, so some of you may rely on memory for your own cars, but is everyone's throttle body butterfly armature, which is connected to the throttle spool via the miniature ball-jointed control link bar, tight?

What i mean by this question, is:  is it "waggle-able" from left to right quite freely, or is it held rigid in place by the staver nut which holds that whole sprung loaded assembly together?

I'm asking, because for a while now, i've been suffering a "sticky throttle".  

In fact, ever since i disassembled the VOD in 2015.

The situation is improving all the time, with a tweak here and an adjustment there, but coming down the M6 three weeks ago, the problem exhibited itself again.
Not badly, but persistent.  It seems it only becomes an issue when the car is fully warmed up and been running for a while (something expanding with heat?).

What's happening is the throttle is getting stuck around the 2k rpm mark, and i can only get it to return to idle by stomping down on the accelerator quickly a bit, and letting go immediately.  Then it returns to idle.  The idle speed micro switch, as far as i can determine, is always being clicked, at least when the throttle spool returns to the resting idle point (which isn't with the tab on the spool resting against the vertical pin.  which i guess is another question.  Is it supposed to?  It hits the pin at full acceleration on the other side, but not when idling.  I tried to make it do both, but couldn't win with that.  I ascertained that even in this resting position, both butterflies are fully closed inside the throttle valve, so i'm convinced it's ok).

I'm finding that by releasing that staver nut (which i think is the only one on the entire car out of interest) another "notch" at a time, is slowly improving the situation, but it's starting to get that armature quite loose feeling and waggles quite freely.  In fact, the threaded push bolt which clicks the idle speed switch is now over to one side, only just meeting with the metal of the switch, rather than sitting nicely in the middle of it.  Others have demonstrated with their car that their armature is solid feeling and works fine with the idle speed returning, but if i tighten up that staver nut to produce the same result, then the throttle becomes really stiff and sticky.  Back in 2015, immediately after my VOD work, when we were driving round the Lotus test track, my throttle got jammed at 4,500rpm!  and i had to get out the car to push it back to idle.  That was before i started loosening off the staver bit by bit.

I'll admit that when i had everything apart doing my VOD, i disassembled that whole assembly to clean it all up, including the springs throughout that whole throttle area, and realised that the original rubber on that armature pinion had all perished and was crumbling, so i had to devise a replacement setup using nitrile o rings etc, and i'm wondering whether my rushed, under pressure effort to get me going ready for Lotus, was simply not good enough.

Sorry for such a long explanation.  A video would have been better than all these words i guess.  Anyway.  Any help or ideas or comparisons of what your car does around that area?

Took the car out for a run at the weekend. I noticed that it was stuttering/jerky under acceleration. 
 This happens when under load. Engine will happily rev smoothly when in neutral.
Car starts fine and idles smoothly when hot or cold.
Stuttering seams to smooth slightly if I floor the throttle or disappears completely if I apply throttle very slowly.
Anyone have any ideas? I tried a tank of super unleaded but still have the issue today.

Thanks
Nick H

Ok, a pretty minor thing in the grand scheme of things, but as it’s on my mind......

The radio in 11477, whilst not a Craig or ASI, it is a post type radio (meaning the console is intact!)
This also means radio removal is difficult.

So the issue is there’s static ALL the time - the aerial doesn’t work, so I tried a cassette, but still immense static, when the volume is maxed out I can hear the music, amongst the static! Lol

So, clearly a bad ground.....where’s the easiest place to start looking?

This is it, an ARA “professional series”


Tris