Hey all.

So, I've got the DGo Cat bypass kit in my 'wish list'.

Not that I necessarily wish to worsen my emissions on purpose, but I do have reservations about a piece of kit (Cat) that, by design, sits inside my engine bay and deliberately generates very high temperatures.  And is now 40 years old (although I guess it shouldn't necessarily degrade much other than by use, and I've still got only ~12k miles on the clock?).

Eventually I plan to replace the whole exhaust system with the newer full-spec stainless job anyway, but for now the existing system otherwise is in functional condition (and I need to do some saving up first!), but ditching the Cat at reasonable cost seems a potential win to me.
Especially as it advertises a small bhp gain and better noise as convenient side-effects.. ;-)

Question is:
if I fit it, do I need to make any other adjustments, or is it just 'plug and play'?
(I've seen Rissy's awesome in-depth analysis of fuel shim adjustment and so on which is on another thread, and I'm just not up to that level of experience/expertise yet, so would like to avoid having to make that kind of change for the moment..!).

As ever, grateful for any advice!
Cheers,
Ivan.

Hi all, anyone have any good or bad experiences of using car covers? I see Ed does a DMC Branded one..

Hi All!


Recently noted a bit of an oddity with my car on starting.

Having had old cars before, I have a habit of turning key from off to first position then second position slowly, then waiting in second position to hear fuel pump going - leaving for a bit to make sure system pressurised and fuel is in all lines, before finally turning to 'start'.  Hopefully avoiding unnecessary fuel-less cranking..

Currently, however, in my D;
Turn key through first position to second position, and there's an odd buzzing noise from somewhere behind me on the LHS.
And the fuel pump appears not to be going.
Turn key back to 'off', then turn back through first to second position.  No problem, pump is going as normal.  Continue turning key to 'start', no worries, off she goes.

However, even after a bit of running, if I then turn her off (at a petrol station, say) - the whole malarkey happens again!

So, I call it a binary pump issue, as every time I get in to start her up, there's a first turn of the key to position 2 with no fuel pump (0) and an odd buzzing noise, then on the second turn of the key to position 2, fuel pump winds up perfectly normally (1) 'cos I can hear it, without the buzzing noise.

Any thoughts?

Yours confusedly, 
Ivan

Spotted this one coming up for sale at the NEC Classic Motor Show Sale 2021:

https://www.silverstoneauctions.com/sa07...-462-miles

Guide price of £65,000 - £75,000 + buyers premium of 15% incl VAT.

Hi All,

as usual, I'm planning the 'East Midlands Area' Xmas meal, but as always, 
this is not limited to members in this area.

I'm aiming for Saturday 4th December and looking at the Chesterfield area, 
as we've got a number of members in Yorkshire/North Lincs interested in 
coming. 

I know Rissy & Leanne, and Mike Sumner and his partner Zoe can do that day,
so I'm just trying to gauge numbers on here so that when I book it, I can give a 
rough idea on numbers.

If you can let me know on here if you are interested in coming please.

Obviously, this is subject to any change in Covid Restrictions going forward.

***** UPDATE: WE WILL BE AT : BIG JIMS BBQ STEAKHOUSE, THANET STREET, CLAY CROSS, DERBYSHIRE S45 9JR *****

Ho Ho Ho.

Claire

Not eBay, but auto trader this time….. 

1993 ? Model

RHD manual


https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202110188609454

Not sure if this is in the correct area 
Looking for some advice.
Car was running great 
Now very poor cold start, when eventually running at temp misfire at low RPMs and cuts out when stop as idle drops too low 
Any ideas ? 
I have checked cold start injector that’s working 
Next plugs ?? Leads ??? Dizzy cap ???
Anyone had this before. ?
Any advice would be appreciated 
Simon

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353722025935?...635-2958-0

   

Just stuck this on eBay - Anyone on here can have it for a fiver! Nowt wrong with it I just put a new pair on during restoration.

Cheers,
Rich

Hi Everyone,

Currently trying to diagnose a faulty temp guage. Since I have had the car the temperature guage has been pointing straight up. I have read some threads on here talking about various temp guage issues to see if anyone else has had the same issues. Mine doesn’t seem to match what I have have read about. 

The guage points straight up and doesn’t move when the ignition is on or off. I read a thread about simply flicking the needle back to ‘reset’ it’s orientation. However, with the sender connected the needle  just rises slowly to 12 o clock and stays there. With the sender disconnected (bugger to get to) the needle (after being pushed back to 100) doesn’t rise. It is therefore the signal from the sender causing it to rise to 12 o clock. I have checked continuity from the sender wire and all ok. I have then jumped the sender wire (to the ground on the block) while not connected to the sender and the needle again rises to 12 o clock and doesn’t return. I have read on other posts that the needle should jump to 12 then return to its rest position when not provided with power. 

My thoughts are that the sender might be ok but I might replace for the sake of 17 quid from DGo. I am more worried about the guage although I have read a comforting statement on the forum that someone was yet to see a faulty guage. 

Can the guage ‘stick’ to stop it returning to its normal position? Is this something that can be free’d or lubricated from inside the binnacle?  I’m yet to go in there but is probably a job that needs to be tackled at some point! 

Thanks in advance for any suggestions or valuable insight. 

Jon.

Hi Everyone,

My car is now running with new exhaust fitted and governor replaced. I spent three weeks at a local mechanics getting these bits fitted (the exhaust in particular was a big job for me to attempt as my first task on the D).  While it was there he got the engine running the best he could and did a few repairs to get it through its MOT.  It has now passed and has arrived in my garage.  Plenty of bits to sort which I will be working through but the engine is still not running right and, frankly, I’m not sure where to start.

Please excuse me being a complete novice but I am willing to learn and do as much reading as I need to!  To my untrained eyes and ears….

The car starts easily whether hot or cold so does not appear to be any problems there.  When it has first started (from cold) it needs to warm up before it is ready to move and will stall otherwise.  Not sure if this is normal but does seem to be worse than I would expect.  As it is warming up it will stall if left unattended.

In addition the engine rocks at certain revs (and at idle) which the mechanic is convinced is a misfire (plugs all checked by him).  He was scaring me with talk of a full engine rebuild but I thought I would check with the experts here before start worrying about such a drastic solution.

Any initial thoughts on where I should start with this?  Things I can do to eliminate potential causes to try and narrow things down?

Any help is very gratefully received.

Jon