Anyone here a qualified electrician? advice please :(

[Barson]

this has pissed me off.


our oven has gone up the creak, so i decide to look for an energy efficient one that connects via 13 pin standard plug (wall socket deal).

I select the electrolux EOB53000 as a suitable replacement. lovely it all seems. I sent an e-mail to electrolux to confirm whether or not this unit would run on a standard mains circuit and not need a cooker circuit as most ovens do these days.

my request for info:
''Hello.You specs sheet says that this appliance runs on 13amps.Can this oven be installed and connected to the mains using a standard plug and socket equipped with a standard 13 amp fuse? Or does it need to be hard wired to a dedicated cooker circuit?The 13 amp makes me think that this can be plugged in, like our existing oven, but the specs sheet is not that explicit.cheers!Dave''

their response:

''Thank you for your correspondence

This cooker comes with a standard 13amp plug that plugs into a wall socket.

Kind regards

Electrolux Consumer Care Team''


all would seem fine. except today when the thing arrives with no flex or 13 amp plug and an instruction booklet which says:

"Connection via: cooker control circuit

min cable/flex size: 2,5mm2

cable flex: PVC/PVC twin and earth

fuse: min 15A / max 20A

It is necessary that you install a double pole switch between the oven and the electricity supply (mains), with a minimum of 3mm between the switch contacts and of a type suitable for the required load in compliance for the current regulations"

this seems like direct contradiction to the advice electrolux themselves gave me before i bought the thing.


Advice. I'm pretty sure that i won't be able to get away with sticking a flex and 13A plug/fuse on the thing and let rip.

i will have to get a cooker control circuit (wiring point and switch, wire and breaker), won't i?

the amperage on the current oven/main house sockets breaker at the moment is 32A

ho hum.

Dave.[/b]

[Glen & Sam]

hi there

if it a single oven most models can run off a single 13 amp plug

if its a twin oven then you got know chance they pull a lot of juice

on your cooker that you took out does the wall socket goto a 3 pin socket white or black cover or a 3 pin normal plug

if its on a 3 pin old white/ black 3 pin connecotor you got a good chance it will be fuesed at your trip box or somewere in your kitchen

if i can help give me a ring

but im only good at borrowing power surplys from other stand :lol:

[Barson]

Hi

thanks for the reply.

It's a single oven.

The current oven is a Neff BAP227 2.8KW single oven. It is protected by a 13amp fuse on the end of 2.5mmsq threecore flex (not 2.5mmsq twin and earth cabel) and is plugged (white plug) into a socket on the main house ring main which in turn is protected with a 32A device in the CU.


My kettle pulls more than 3000W anyway (sometimes upto 3100). I rekon it'll be OK, it's just I'm angry with the manufacturers for BSing me.

/rant . plus I've got a coolant leak at the back of my water pump that i haven't looked at tonight. eveything's going wrong! :evil: :oops: :p


cheers again
Dave.

[Glen & Sam]

any problems give me a call and i try and help the thing with your kettle us really the same but its very quicker than a oven as it slowley get tp temp then keeps it temp by turning on and off but a kettle goes stright away up to biling piont dont know if that helps with all the spelling mistakes in it :lol:

[Chris Williams]

You should be ok, try to get some imersion heater flex to wire it in with, it's a bit tight to get in to a three pin plug but it is flexi 2.5mm and heat resistant.
Chris

[Tourettes Tony]

[quote="Barson

/rant . plus I've got a coolant leak at the back of my water pump that i haven't looked at tonight. eveything's going wrong! :evil: :oops: :p


cheers again :)
Dave.[/quote]

Dave howarth has waterpumps, best to change it if its leaking cheers TT

[Glen & Sam]

good one chris you will get it from B & Q or some were lie that

[Barson]

yeah, the existing oven's cable is 2.5mm which i was going to use.




as for the water pump, I think i know what it is. I need to be mor liberal with the sealant around the backplate gasket and tougher on the bolts!

[NickT]

Hi Barson, I work for an Electrical company (Industrial and Domestic)

If you already have that oven and want to install it then because the min current is 15 Amp, you will need a correct cooker isolator switch that in turn is wired to a separate MCB from the ring mains as per the instruction manual.

Unless you have some old red and black cable you will have to use blue and brown harmonised coloured cable and put relevent notification sticker on the distribution board if old and new type colour cabling is wired in.

You could try getting a contribution from Electrolux for the electrical wiring as they have not given you correct information or get an email of confirmation before wiring it to a domestic 13 Amp mains but probably not.

I would go with the instruction manual over a sales department anyway.

You could see what the power rating of the device is and use the formula (not accounting for capacitance or inductive loads):

p=IV

I=p/V

P=Power
I= Current
V=Voltage (240Volts UK)

Hope this helps, probably not

NickT.

[NickT]

As for the waterpump, the seals may have gone and water is escaping down the hole that is at the bottom front of the water pump.

You could confirm this with a pressure test.

I have a spare bolt on pulley type bolt if you need one.

NickT.

[Barson]

NickT Wrote:You could see what the power rating of the device is and use the formula (not accounting for capacitance or inductive loads):

p=IV

I=p/V

P=Power
I= Current
V=Voltage (240Volts UK)

Hope this helps, probably not

NickT.

helps, yes.


there's some 4mmsq black and red cable on ebay that i might be able to get .


so it should go:

OVEN>4mmSq>switched CCU>4mmSq>16A ECB (inCU)

should be easy enough to do. i can get under the house and there's plenty of room behind the oven for a ccu and back box.

it says the thing is 3kw. which works out at: 3000/240=12.5 amp

do they put on minimum of 15A fuse/device just for a couple of amps breathing room (is this the capacitance and induction [initial pull?] load)?


cheers!

Dave.

[NickT]

Just had a word with one of our sparky's who is Part P and IEE 16th Edition qualified.
We also cross referenced the IEE on site guide book.

I forgot that the harmonised voltage is 230v !

For a cooker the MCB rating is first 10 amps plus 30% if final Max Current
ie 3000w 230v == just over 13Amp

10 + (0.3 * 13) = 13.9Amp so nearest fuse rating would be 15Amp.
For an MCB this would be 16Amp (Renard rating) although the sparky would recommend a 20Amp to allow for surges.
The cable size would be 4mm squared as long as the length is less than 12metres total. Any greater than 12metres you would have to use 6mm squared.
The cooker would have to be switched using a 20Amp double pole switch with contacts that open more than 3mm.

If the cooker switch has an integral domestic socket then you would have to use 6mm squared cable regardless and the MCB would have to be a 32Amp.

He said the golden rule is if the appliance can be used on a domestic supply then it will come pre-flexed.

If this sounds like too much hassle, get a different oven with a rating of 2.8Kw or less.

Hope this helps,

NickT.

NB: All electrical work is done should be tested, inspected and certified by a Part P qualified electrician.............

[Barson]

NickT Wrote:He said the golden rule is if the appliance can be used on a domestic supply then it will come pre-flexed.

.

precisely! hence i was royally pished when i looked at the back of the oven to seen three terminals when the flex should have been!


cheers Nick

[TheOriginalMrP]

Chickens...... Why not just use some bell wire? LOL

[Barson]

that's what i started with, bell wire

started to smell like fish.

talking of fish, what happen to your avatar?