Do basic checks first:
presence of bleed kit
bleed the cooling system
otterstat switch functionality
cooling fan operation
thermostat opening
then do a cooling system pressure test
then get is sniff tested (where cooling system gas is drawn up a blue chemical.
this tests for the presence of carbon monoxide (CO)
if this proves bad news then ask RichH as he has changed his head gasket. Parts should be standard B28E engine but I would compare the removed one at the parts counter.
NickT.
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At the risk of stating the obvious, have you checked that the fans are working first, mine did same thing when they did not cut in!!
Bleed kit is essential.
If coolant is drained check otterstat switch !
I found easiest way to bleed the car is:
Turn interior heater to fully hot position
Disconnect 8mm internal diameter hose from top of radiator
Get a friend to slowly fill coolant until coolant escapes from the pipe
Reconnect pipe and firmly attachach jubilee clip
Slowly fill coolant until you fill half the expansion tank.
Put cap on.
Run engine until cooling fans kick in OR gauge is half way up mark.
Let engine cool overnight
Refill coolant if need be.
Hope this helps
NickT.
Good tips there Nick, I always find that the heater core insde the car is the cause of air locks as the top connection leaves an air gap at the top of it and takes a bit of shifting ....so yes turn the heater knob to 'Hot' and top it off over the next few drives.
After just replacing my heater valve in the engine bay, it has become apparent to me how in each of the heating / ventilation positions that this valve seems to be in the open position even on vent allowing hot water into the foot well. Seems daft to me that this valve should be open in several of the modes especially in summer time vent.
Mine is a plastic one from a volvo 760 (B28E engine)
NickT.
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Interesting reading! I think I might adopt Nick when I eventually purchase a DeLorean! He can be my personal mechanic haha!
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i have jonny boy :lol: just getting the papers drawn up now TT
DOC398
VIN#3484
Tourettes Tutor
I have the X factor
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Quote:Anyone know the correct length please?
It's the rating in lbs that is the important thing. The correct pressure rating for the coolant cap is 15lbs.
I bought one from the local car bits shop when mine was suspect, I think the closest they had was 14lbs - which is close enough - in fact it is currently working fine on Phill's car
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Yep it's 15lbs for the pressure cap.
If you want I might still be able to get some from my old suplier.
Dan
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Hi Dan, sorry to bug you on here, but I've sent you a few PM's ref. those trunk struts, can you let me know how to pay you
Julian
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so, what are you implying there, Bozzy? :wink:
Poor Nick, you'll give the lad a complex :lol:
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Jul 1981 DeLorean - Flopsy #2292
Aug 1989 Cavalier 1.6L - Guinney
Oct 1994 Twingo Mk1 - Freddie le Grenouille
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