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Head Gasket! - Printable Version

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+--- Thread: Head Gasket! (/showthread.php?tid=429)

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- NickT - 19 Mar 2007

Do basic checks first:

presence of bleed kit
bleed the cooling system
otterstat switch functionality
cooling fan operation
thermostat opening

then do a cooling system pressure test
then get is sniff tested (where cooling system gas is drawn up a blue chemical.
this tests for the presence of carbon monoxide (CO)

if this proves bad news then ask RichH as he has changed his head gasket. Parts should be standard B28E engine but I would compare the removed one at the parts counter.

NickT.


- Bandit - 19 Mar 2007

At the risk of stating the obvious, have you checked that the fans are working first, mine did same thing when they did not cut in!!


- NickT - 21 Mar 2007

Bleed kit is essential.

If coolant is drained check otterstat switch !

I found easiest way to bleed the car is:

Turn interior heater to fully hot position
Disconnect 8mm internal diameter hose from top of radiator
Get a friend to slowly fill coolant until coolant escapes from the pipe
Reconnect pipe and firmly attachach jubilee clip
Slowly fill coolant until you fill half the expansion tank.
Put cap on.
Run engine until cooling fans kick in OR gauge is half way up mark.
Let engine cool overnight
Refill coolant if need be.

Hope this helps

NickT.


- bozzzydmc - 21 Mar 2007

Good tips there Nick, I always find that the heater core insde the car is the cause of air locks as the top connection leaves an air gap at the top of it and takes a bit of shifting ....so yes turn the heater knob to 'Hot' and top it off over the next few drives.

After just replacing my heater valve in the engine bay, it has become apparent to me how in each of the heating / ventilation positions that this valve seems to be in the open position even on vent allowing hot water into the foot well. Seems daft to me that this valve should be open in several of the modes especially in summer time vent.


- bozzzydmc - 21 Mar 2007

My advice is to change out the header tank for a new one, the old ones are 25 years old and have been known to 'explode' causing no end of trouble.

At the very least buy a new OEM one or preferably replace with a new one such as :-

http://www.dmc-service.nl/

Water tank : Stainless water tank with stainless cap


- NickT - 21 Mar 2007

Mine is a plastic one from a volvo 760 (B28E engine)

NickT.


- Jonny Jones - 21 Mar 2007

Interesting reading! I think I might adopt Nick when I eventually purchase a DeLorean! He can be my personal mechanic haha!


- Tourettes Tony - 21 Mar 2007

i have jonny boy :lol: just getting the papers drawn up now TT


- Rich H - 22 Mar 2007

Quote:Anyone know the correct length please?

It's the rating in lbs that is the important thing. The correct pressure rating for the coolant cap is 15lbs.

I bought one from the local car bits shop when mine was suspect, I think the closest they had was 14lbs - which is close enough - in fact it is currently working fine on Phill's car


- Daniel Shane - 22 Mar 2007

Yep it's 15lbs for the pressure cap.

If you want I might still be able to get some from my old suplier.

Dan


- Bandit - 22 Mar 2007

Hi Dan, sorry to bug you on here, but I've sent you a few PM's ref. those trunk struts, can you let me know how to pay you
Julian


- NickT - 22 Mar 2007

Tourettes Tony Wrote:i have jonny boy :lol: just getting the papers drawn up now TT

Shock Shock Shock Shock

Oh heck !

NickT


- bozzzydmc - 22 Mar 2007

Dont worry Nick Im sure theres enough of you to go around Smile Smile


- Guinney1971 - 22 Mar 2007

so, what are you implying there, Bozzy? :wink:

Poor Nick, you'll give the lad a complex :lol:


- bozzzydmc - 22 Mar 2007

Enough talent and unselfish enthusiasm..what else Smile Smile

Poor lad ...