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Hello all you lovely people.
I have fitted the rad to #16686 and run the system with water and antifreeze. The coolant seems to be getting round the system as all the pipes get quite hot.
I have opened the bleed screw on the thermostat (which has released alot of air/bubbles. I get a steady stream of water coming through the return pipe which goes back to the expansion tank.
As the temperature reaches in between quarter and half way, the fans cut in and cut out after a while.
However, a little while after the fans cut out, the coolant starts to boil up and make alot of funny hissing and popping sounds.
The bleed screw just lets out alot of steam, and the temperature keeps rising.
Anyone got any ideas, cos i'm getting rather stressed :evil:
Cheers Kelv
Kelvin Tan
#492
#16686
Posts: 6,174
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Hi Kelv,
have you got a bleed kit fitted?
Flopsy used to be a total nightmare for trapping air in the system, and just when you think you've cleared it all, a load more appears from apparantly no-where - it is very frustrating.
Best thing to do, is jack the car up or get it up on some ramps as it bleeds alot better if the back end of the car is up in the air.
Hope this helps,
Claire Wright - Club Treasurer
Jul 1981 DeLorean - Flopsy #2292
Aug 1989 Cavalier 1.6L - Guinney
Oct 1994 Twingo Mk1 - Freddie le Grenouille
#170
Posts: 107
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Hi Claire
My car does not have the bleed kit fitted, and i know what you mean by saying its a nightmare cos that is exactly what is happening!!!
When i open the bleed valve i get a constant flow of coolant streaming out and also at the return pipe to the header tank.
Just have to keep trying i s'pose
Cheers
Kelv
Kelvin Tan
#492
#16686
Posts: 412
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A good tip for the D is to make sure the rear of the car is higher than the front when bleeding.
Jack the back up and place on stands. Then run it up to temperature. Put the heater on full heat.
When It's nice and warm and still with the engine running bleed the thermostat housing. Then goto the passenger side front wheel and on the radiator carefully remove the small hose that connects to the top of the rad.
This will bleed the rad, wait until a steady stream of water comes out then refit the hose. Be careful of the rad as this small hose can easily be broken off.
Repeat until all the air is out.
You say that the coolant boils up, is the pressure cap on the header tank making a good seal and the system pressurising ? If not then the coolant will boil over as the pressure in the system raises the boiling point of the coolant.
Dan
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Posts: 107
Threads: 6
Joined: Jul 2006
Cheers for the info people - where would i be without you lot eh????
(probably hanging from the rafters LOL)
I'll try jacking the car up and look into fitting this self bleeding kit on.
Cheers
Kelv - getting worried cos norfolk is so near!!!!
Kelvin Tan
#492
#16686
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Once the engine is up to temperature, you shouldn't be opening the bleed screw
at all
If you do that you will depressurise the system and this will certainly cause it to boil up.
Stop faffing around and get the self bleed kit fitted, all your troubles will disappear!
Posts: 412
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Rich is right,
I did say warm, Not hot !!!
Dan
Posts: 107
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Joined: Jul 2006
Bleed kit fitted now and it works a treat!!!! (Big thanks to Torrettes for the help)
Just have to see what else is gonna break before eurotech.......

: :roll:
Kelvin Tan
#492
#16686
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dmckelv12 Wrote:Bleed kit fitted now and it works a treat!!!! (Big thanks to Torrettes for the help)
Just have to see what else is gonna break before eurotech.......
: :roll:
No worries, it was worth doing for tha bacon rolls, cheers stace TT
DOC398
VIN#3484
Tourettes Tutor
I have the X factor
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Ton, is the D already for Eurotech?? I've started on my second one now, nothing fancy, I just want to get her running so it's M.O.T-able, still haven't finished the decorating though.
Regards Jay Monk
VIN: # 3928
VIN: # 4989