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Rad fan switch
#1
can any one tell me where the switch is for controling the radiator fan as my fan didi`t come on and my D overheated at the MOT station so they could`t test my emissions, so yes they had to fail it very sad indead Cry
cheers tracey
vin 6484
rhd
(marty)
doc 421
Delorean Dream within a Dream
roll on eurotec 2009 love you all
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#2
[Image: 132.gif]

Item 65

Sad thing is if you had known you could have just jumpered the 2 wires together to make the fans come on Sad

Also make sure the fan switch is pointing down and the clip is on correctly.

I have a spare switch if one is needed.
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#3
It's a Rover Metro Part
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#4
Cheers guys I had got through most of the mot when they was checking the brakes it just over heated and marty peaed every where ,so we filled it up again and he went and done it again so we gave up,got me dad to pick me up, he took me home so we could get another car and trailered it back home could of cried, so got too take it back as soon as we`ve sorted the fan out, Cry
cheers tracey
vin 6484
rhd
(marty)
doc 421
Delorean Dream within a Dream
roll on eurotec 2009 love you all
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#5
FYI the Original Stat turns on fans at 97c (207F) and off at
91c (196F) + /- 5%
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#6
Yes, an austin metro part works a treat. Had this problem myself recently. The original part gave up after 3 years, the new specified part from ed didnt work either, but the austin metro bought as a last resort worked perfect. Be careful your motor factors dont supply you with a rover metro one, as that's a plug connection rather than the 2 spade connectors. The part looks identical otherwise.
Good luck with it...
Ben
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#7
I have had the Austin Metro otterstat in my D for about three years and it works perfectly. If I can find the box in the shed I'll give you the part number...
Richard H. DOC 365 VIN 1274
http://www.deloreans.co.uk
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are not.
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#8
RichH Wrote:I have had the Austin Metro otterstat in my D for about three years and it works perfectly. If I can find the box in the shed I'll give you the part number...


that will be great cheers
cheers tracey
vin 6484
rhd
(marty)
doc 421
Delorean Dream within a Dream
roll on eurotec 2009 love you all
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#9
If the car passed everything else but the car JUST failed on the emissions then you could put a temporarily link between the wires to run the fans continuously. I think you could then get the car re-tested with an emissions check only.
If not then the car will have to go through a full re-test but have a word with the garage first. Wouldn't want to delay getting that MOT now!

NickT.
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#10
right found the problem for now, it`s the fan fail relay switch thats located in the fuse box thats packed up, we`ve bodged it up for now so that the fan is staying on all the time when the engine s running,does any body know where i can get one from,

ps it back for another test tommorrow fingers crossed
cheers tracey
vin 6484
rhd
(marty)
doc 421
Delorean Dream within a Dream
roll on eurotec 2009 love you all
[Image: covercarpics034.jpg]

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#11
the blue fan fail module is usually removed as part of the factory recall.
your otterstat switch may be ok.

the mod is to connect the cable in the relay base as shown in fan fail fix (2 20 amp fuses)

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-pa ... tions.html

If you kneel down on your drivers seat (rhd) and look down on the relay base, the wires should go in the left hand side, the central one nearest to you and the right hand side, like a W shape.

You are better off with 30 amp gauge cable and quality crimped ends.

The electronic version of the fan fail just stagger starts the fans to minimise alternator/ engine loading.

NickT.
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#12
NickT Wrote:the blue fan fail module is usually removed as part of the factory recall.
your otterstat switch may be ok.

the mod is to connect the cable in the relay base as shown in fan fail fix (2 20 amp fuses)

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-pa ... tions.html

If you kneel down on your drivers seat (rhd) and look down on the relay base, the wires should go in the left hand side, the central one nearest to you and the right hand side, like a W shape.

You are better off with 30 amp gauge cable and quality crimped ends.

The electronic version of the fan fail just stagger starts the fans to minimise alternator/ engine loading.

NickT.

We have now modified it to bypass the fan fail relay. One of the fans is still refusing to work but the other should keep it cool enough to MOT it. My electrical friend is going to make us a new fan fail box and then sort out the other fan. I am very grateful to everybody who has posted replys and helpful advice to us. Thank you.
cheers tracey
vin 6484
rhd
(marty)
doc 421
Delorean Dream within a Dream
roll on eurotec 2009 love you all
[Image: covercarpics034.jpg]

[Image: mybanner48c1296704f7enw1.jpg]
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#13
RichH Wrote:I have had the Austin Metro otterstat in my D for about three years and it works perfectly. If I can find the box in the shed I'll give you the part number...

I would love to know the part number too! As mine is also gone, (though it switches the fan on from time to time) and I rely on a manual switch which I have installed into one of the dummy ones next to the window switch. Comes in handy sometime! :wink:

To make the story worse, my temp gauge is dead :evil:

So when I go to purchase one of these from auto part stores, will it come with the clip and rubber gasket? Or the switch on its own? And is it a straight swap?
Kind Regards,
John [DOC No. 8]

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#14
Hey john, mine came with the rubber seal only, not the clip, but the existing clip did the job. I have heared some people say you need a cable tie to hold it in, but i found this unecessary. The seal was a tighter fit than that of a genuine DeLorean otterstat too.
Hope this helps.
Ben
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#15
tracey steele Wrote:
NickT Wrote:the blue fan fail module is usually removed as part of the factory recall.
your otterstat switch may be ok.

the mod is to connect the cable in the relay base as shown in fan fail fix (2 20 amp fuses)

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-pa ... tions.html

If you kneel down on your drivers seat (rhd) and look down on the relay base, the wires should go in the left hand side, the central one nearest to you and the right hand side, like a W shape.

You are better off with 30 amp gauge cable and quality crimped ends.

The electronic version of the fan fail just stagger starts the fans to minimise alternator/ engine loading.

NickT.

We have now modified it to bypass the fan fail relay. One of the fans is still refusing to work but the other should keep it cool enough to MOT it. My electrical friend is going to make us a new fan fail box and then sort out the other fan. I am very grateful to everybody who has posted replys and helpful advice to us. Thank you.

Try spraying WD40 inside the motor part of the fan. Manually spin the fan round a bit then give the base a gentle thump with your fist 8)

NickT.
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