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Delorean won't start
#16
I would work back and check everything again, Then pull the injectors and by pass the fuel pump relay and do the 'jam jar' test on the injectors (google it!) this will then let you know if your fuel system is working (more or less) correctly. I would still suggest that something is not correct, try undoing what you did to get back to the running point.
Chris
Membership Secretary DOC UK
2021's DeLorean event: http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthr...p?tid=6056
VIN#15768 Ex VIN#4584
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#17
(31 Aug 2019, 21:10)Chris Williams Wrote: I would work back and check everything again, Then pull the injectors and by pass the fuel pump relay and do the 'jam jar' test on the injectors (google it!) this will then let you know if your fuel system is working (more or less) correctly. I would still suggest that something is not correct, try undoing what you did to get back to the running point.
Chris

Thanks Chris, I know the fuel isn't coming through the injectors as the plugs are dry. The ONLY thing I can think of which adds up mentally for me at this stage is that the distributor isn't working as it should and has jammed. Which fills me with dread as its parked on the drive at the moment so I have avoided re-doing it at this stage.
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#18
I’d check your getting fuel from the fuel pump to the fuel distributor first.
Nick
DOC 650
Jaguar X-Type
Range Rover Sport SDV6 "Rufus" (Mrs H's motor)
DeLorean DMC 12 Vin#2862

My other hobby...
http://www.lccuk.org.uk/
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#19
All fixed.....Spark plugs were dirty....freakily strange, ran it out and about. Phew I was beginning to think it was something so much worse.
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#20
I'd double check you have the exact correct plugs.
Chris Parnham

Ex RHD Auto's etc.etc

Main Car.. Kia E Niro 4+
Toyota Vitz 4X4 1999 (the smallest 4X4 by far!)
Toyota RAV4 EV 1999.
1970 Jago Jeep.

DOC Club Historian 
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#21
Thanks Chris, They should be the right plugs they are BOSCH from eurotec…. I think this is merely the symptom not the problem...… I think its running rich shockingly bad MPG and the exhaust gets so hot... Temp never goes above 1/3.

I am thinking there was another issue which I fixed with all the checks/rechecks but by the time that was nailed the plugs were sooty. I am thinking I will get a mobile tuner out to do it the first time and then perhaps monitor it myself from this point as its not something I have done before.
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#22
Bahh its back, I backed it out and back to square 1 with black plugs and it sitting outside the garage not starting. I assume if I pull the plugs and clean them it will start and run in some manner.

Q. Could this be down to me having put the distributor on the wrong way around ?

I have to be honest I may have got lucky but I saw a flat spot and lined it up but having read more you can technically fit it upside down ?

I am thinking not as surely it wouldn't have done 15 or so miles with it upside down ?
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#23
Quote:Q. Could this be down to me having put the distributor on the wrong way around ?
It's certainly easy to do, there are two notches in the cap and it's easy to get them 180% out. It's well worth checking out. You can just remove all the fuel stuff to access it.
Chris
Membership Secretary DOC UK
2021's DeLorean event: http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthr...p?tid=6056
VIN#15768 Ex VIN#4584
Reply
#24
Very easy to put the distributor back in 180 deg out! I’ve done it Wink 
I’m surprised if you got it to drive any distance though. When I did that it ran horribly.
And I turned it off after a few seconds. 

If your running very rich, plugs are fouled up and the exhaust was running very hot etc. You have probably contaminated the Lambda O2 sensor as well. So I’d suggest replacing that once you find the reason for your issue. 

Nick H
DOC 650
Jaguar X-Type
Range Rover Sport SDV6 "Rufus" (Mrs H's motor)
DeLorean DMC 12 Vin#2862

My other hobby...
http://www.lccuk.org.uk/
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#25
Its not "running" that rich Smile Lambda sensor is brand spanking...… I am close to giving up. I just cant work out how it can be fine then not... hence tending to think maybe the float is stuck. I cleaned the plugs and no joy, and yet that worked on SUN so it must be something different.

When I had it running if I pressed the air intake valve, I could feel some resistance, if I pressed it stalled, is that normal ? I saw that was a test but the fact I could press it surely means its free ?

Any mobile mechanic recommendations ? or NW/Cheshire/Manchester mechanics?
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#26
I'm not an expert, but I have a bit of experience.

There is no float. Yes its quite correct that the air intake flap has resistance ..its time to worry when it hasn't any...that means the pressure that should be there is ebbing away. Pushing is down will 'flood' the car. (This procedure is OK to try gently,on a car that is refusing to start because of lack of fuel) I did it mine..but only a tiny about....16th on an inch?. Its just like pouring petrol down the carb on an old car.

Yours seems to flooding..opposite problem. I think you have had the intake manifold off?  You've probably put something back wrong. Its possible to get the flow and return fuel pipe crossed over...i've seen it done and the car will start...but not run properly.

Did it run OK before you started work on it?

Take advice from Richard H of Chris W...etc.  


.
Chris Parnham

Ex RHD Auto's etc.etc

Main Car.. Kia E Niro 4+
Toyota Vitz 4X4 1999 (the smallest 4X4 by far!)
Toyota RAV4 EV 1999.
1970 Jago Jeep.

DOC Club Historian 
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#27
(03 Sep 2019, 08:18)Chris P Wrote: I'm not an expert, but I have a bit of experience.

There is no float. Yes its quite correct that the air intake flap has resistance ..its time to worry when it hasn't any...that means the pressure that should be there is ebbing away. Pushing is down will 'flood' the car. (This procedure is OK to try gently,on a car that is refusing to start because of lack of fuel) I did it mine..but only a tiny about....16th on an inch?. Its just like pouring petrol down the carb on an old car.

Yours seems to flooding..opposite problem. I think you have had the intake manifold off?  You've probably put something back wrong. Its possible to get the flow and return fuel pipe crossed over...i've seen it done and the car will start...but not run properly.

Did it run OK before you started work on it?

Take advice from Richard H of Chris W...etc.  


.

Thanks Chris,  Ahh that's good to know about the flow and return, I will double check as my fundamental assumption was that if ran it was back correctly which may be flawed. 

It was running ok before I started, a little hesitant every now and again that was all, main reason for intake manifold was for new HT leads/rotor and distributor cap as the age of the previous was an unknown. 

Should  the intake flap have resistance when the car is not running ? Mine doesn't and I recall reading that prior to undoing the fuel pipes you could release pressure by pressing the flap.. I did but it was free.
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#28
Yes it should hold pressure for a while...not sure how long. half an hour? It shows that the non-return valve is doing its job and you've got no leaks.
Chris Parnham

Ex RHD Auto's etc.etc

Main Car.. Kia E Niro 4+
Toyota Vitz 4X4 1999 (the smallest 4X4 by far!)
Toyota RAV4 EV 1999.
1970 Jago Jeep.

DOC Club Historian 
Reply
#29
Fuel hoses all correct, vacuum hoses all correct....

A few things to check, I don't think any of these are to do with the starting but worth clearing up.

[Image: xy7qFXx.jpg]
Does the above injector seem excessively sooty ?

[Image: TcFvdHj.jpg]
I have a black wire behind the distributor on the right, any idea I cant seem to see an obvious home to it.
[Image: RKM58Te.jpg]
This is on the throttle cover, I cant remember if this connection was on the top or bottom of the block, any idea ? Shouldn't something else be plugged in here ?
[Image: ZxpfktP.jpg]
Does this matter which way around it goes ?
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#30
I have done the injector jam jar test and I get fuel.... Now this is really weird as I know there is spark and I know there is fuel.... how weird is that....Am I missing air ?
I have a spare relay for the RPM so I swapped that out as well.
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