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Removing the water pump pulley.
#1
hello.

I'm going to replace my water pump (making a horrible noise). I have the intake manifold off anyway, so i thought it was a good time to do. Smile

Does anyone have any experience of removing the pulley from their pump? I have the press on one.

I've read some archived posts from DMCUK Martin (on DMCnews) about removing the back of the pump and then unbolting it from within the pump then using a press to remove the pulley.

I'm just after some more ideas if anyone has any. cheers!

Martin's post.
http://ryanwright.com/dmcnews/2005-11/msg00350.html
-------------------------
- Dave Smith

VIN: #00944 DOC: #535
VIN: #03193
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#2
I bought a standard volvo water pump from ebay for £10 inc delivery and an adaptor to go on the pulley so in the future changing a pump will be quick and saved me bothering with a press.

http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/ ... -4bolt.jpg
http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/ ... ystem.html

Water pump is a standard unipart but i don't have the code for it at the moment.

Everything is the same wrt dimensions inc. the impeller shape, hose connections and flange for the back plate.

Hope your hoses are ok too, i think most people who have done this job have replaced them with silicone and/ or replaced the mild steel pipe that runs underneath it. I replaced mine with a stainless one.

NickT.
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#3
nik

i know were to come and get my one point 21 gigawatts from when its all done..... Big Grin

nik did say to me that i might have to look at herman water pully as my car getting through belts like there going out of fasion
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#4
ey up.

I've ordered new hoses for the rear and a stainless return pipe from Hervey. The valley was damp (probably from the atmosphere), but most likly from a small leak somewhere behind the pump.
I need to get in there and clean it up once i have all the parts.

I found a nest beneath my intake manifold. If had leaves, sand and plastic packaging from somthing from the NFL. My guess is it was a mouse or something, considering the size of the gap between the V, the coolant hoses and the intake manifold...There wasn't anything dead in there.
I'm glad i removed it now.

The pump itself makes a metal on metal grining noise when i run it by hand. It made the same noise (only louder and faster) when the engine was turning over.

I'm going to get Ed Uding to sort my pump out. It'll be slightly more expensive, but it'll be quicker. Smile

thanks for the replies. Ed got back to me and pretty much confirmed to me what martin had said.

I'll get on to this, this week. lots to do.

cheers.

Dave.
-------------------------
- Dave Smith

VIN: #00944 DOC: #535
VIN: #03193
Reply
#5
Ay up,

metl grinding doesn't sounds good but glad you found it now and not on a motorway !

While I was under there i painted the alloy with air-cooled cylinder black to give it some protection.

It may be worth while changing the o rings under the alloy Y section where all the sensors go. Bozzzy has a bag full of these so ask him nicely or promise him a pint and I'm sure he can help you out there.

I had some time to do the job so re-threaded and re-died all the threads.

NickT
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#6
eh ...eh...did someone say buy Bozzy a pint ????... Smile

Sure if you want a couple of those Y pipe o rings you may have them. Its actually quite nice knowing how many cars have my 'o' rings on them now Smile
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#7
Barson Wrote:ey up.


I'm going to get Ed Uding to sort my pump out. It'll be slightly more expensive, but it'll be quicker. Smile

Dave.

Still at least there will be no import duty to pay Dave

Whilst your 'in' there....

Good time to replace those aging vacuum pipes ( Hervy does a nice silcone Set )

http://specialtauto.com/images/Vacuum-s ... -black.jpg

You will need new o rings for the manifold etc. When i did mine i replaced the holding down bolts as well.

http://specialtauto.com/images/o-ring-assort.jpg

This is a good little kit to do them all whilst your there


Good time to do your distributor cap, rotor arm plugs and leads .

Seeing as you have nothing else to do this week Smile Smile
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#8
[quote="NickT"]I bought a standard volvo water pump from ebay for £10 inc delivery and an adaptor to go on the pulley so in the future changing a pump will be quick and saved me bothering with a press.

I had been looking at some volvo waterpumps on ebay myself, however I was not sure if they were 'man' enough for the job. I was not sure if the one fitted to a Delorean was a different spec ie; more powerfull pump to go front to back (of the car) or is the Volvo one identical?
Chris
Membership Secretary DOC UK
2021's DeLorean event: http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthr...p?tid=6056
VIN#15768 Ex VIN#4584
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#9
The Volvo pump is a great idea in theory till you factor in the cost of the pulley, the fact that it looks different, and will probably last another 20 years anyway.

WE HAVE PUMPS READY TO GO ON THE SHELF.

Martin
DMCL
Martin Gutkowski
DeLorean Cars
http://www.delorean.co.uk
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#10
I have a Volvo pump on Flopsy.

It works ok, but if I'm sitting in traffic I find the temp needle creeps up, so I have to rev the engine to bring the temp back down again.

I was told this was a characteristic of the Volvo pump.

Hope this helps,

Claire
Claire Wright  - Club Treasurer
Jul 1981 DeLorean - Flopsy #2292 
Aug 1989 Cavalier 1.6L - Guinney
Apr 2021 Mokka-e Launch Edition - Evie
#170
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#11
I don't have that problem on mine claire, i wonder if your radiator needs a flush out or something.

I compared both pumps and they were the same in all dimensions apart from the pulley part.

Each to their own though.

NIckT.
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#12
bozzzydmc Wrote:Still at least there will be no import duty to pay Dave

Whilst your 'in' there....

Good time to replace those aging vacuum pipes ( Hervy does a nice silcone Set )

http://specialtauto.com/images/Vacuum-s ... -black.jpg

You will need new o rings for the manifold etc. When i did mine i replaced the holding down bolts as well.

http://specialtauto.com/images/o-ring-assort.jpg

This is a good little kit to do them all whilst your there


Good time to do your distributor cap, rotor arm plugs and leads .

Seeing as you have nothing else to do this week Smile Smile

I bought the silicone vacuum hoses from Hervey and started to install them. That's why I went under the intake manifold to start with. Tongue

I also bought the manifold/o-ring set from Hervey at the same time. Didn't bank on having to remove the v pipe, though Sad

thanks for the o-rings bozzzy. Smile

cheers
Dave.
-------------------------
- Dave Smith

VIN: #00944 DOC: #535
VIN: #03193
Reply
#13
Barson Wrote:I also bought the manifold/o-ring set from Hervey at the same time. Didn't bank on having to remove the v pipe, though Sad

Dave

Good choice to replace the 2 hoses behind the pump with silicon ones, did that on mine (Ben's Wink ). Just BE careful when removing the bolts in that area especially the Y pipe. They can snap real easy then its a pain in the ar*s , believe me Wink

As far as the Volvo / Renault pumps, they are identical except the pully. Personally I heard a certain vendor said the Volvo pumps were not as good as he had a pile of OEM ones to sell first Wink

The cooling system gets less efficient over age and need a good overhaul, flush the system, forwards and back, removing the engine blocks. When I first did mine there was so much crap that came out I was surprised the engine got cool at all lol Also a lot of rads are 25+ years old and need replacing, and personally would steer away from the Brass ones as they are a pain to fit. Get a OEM one or get it re cored. Heres a link to the method I always used when flushing the system.
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/cooling.htm

Oh and not to mention the metal pipe in the valley of death, if yours has never been done then it will be rusty and loosing water!

Just my 2p worth Smile
Chris Spratt

Ex owner of Vin#16327 Grey 5 Speed was FLE 371Y
1998 Lotus Esprit GT3
1999 Lotus Elise
DOC 4
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#14
ChrisS Wrote:The cooling system gets less efficient over age and need a good overhaul, flush the system, forwards and back, removing the engine blocks. Smile
I agree ...but i think removing the engine blocks is a little on the excessive side Smile

( Ok yes i know you missed the word 'plugs' out Smile Smile )
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#15
ChrisS Wrote:Just BE careful when removing the bolts in that area especially the Y pipe. They can snap real easy then its a pain in the ar*s , believe me Wink

Yes the two 'long' ones both snapped on my car, one i had enough to get hold of with a pair of vice grips, the other i managed to drill out with a counter clockwise drill bit, lucky for me once i had drilled a good chunk out the remainsof the bolt started turning out, so on that one i didnt need a helicoil on it.

By the way if any one does need a 7mm 'helicoil kit' i have one with loads of coils you can borrow.
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