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Full Version: VIN No. 1867
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Have you tried the red plugs????? This came from Dave Howarth, who knows what he is taking about.
(21 Jul 2021, 16:51)Justwatching Wrote: [ -> ]
(19 Jul 2021, 11:48)Stuart Rees Wrote: [ -> ]I have found that the amount of ATF in the gearbox needs to be exact or it will cause slipping and such.

The level (measure on the dip stick when hot) has to be spot on (not an easy task sometimes) or it will misbehave.


Yeah, I think I've over filled it. 

I know the final reading must be taken hot with the engine running, but to give me a rough starting point, where does yours read when cold and engine off?

Sorry, I just saw your question. My cars ATF level when cold doesn't register on the dip stick.

You're right, the level needs to be measured while the engine is running and after moving the gear selector through the gears and back to PARK.
I leave the engine run. Then take the dip stick out, wipe, then measure again for the level to be at HOT
(04 Aug 2021, 21:15)Chris P Wrote: [ -> ]Have you tried the red plugs????? This came from Dave Howarth, who knows what he is taking about.

Can you direct me toward the plug you mean? I can only see one red plug (top right of engine bay).

That'll be the red plug Chris P is referring to, yes.

7 out of the 9 connections in that plug are for the automatic cars. Ground connections, governor connections, kickdown etc etc. If any of those connections is dirty and not connecting continuity very well, then I guess this would/could give you problems.
Sorry for the late reply, as Chris says..dirty connections are responsible for a lot of problems..

There is another RED plug, dangling around....somewhere under your red HT lead......find it and swap it for the other red one and see what happens.....according to Dave Howarth, this is a common problem where the wrong one has been plugged in..error.
Thanks, I've found the plug, but I got more diagnostic info which I think excludes an electrical problem. I've done roughly 150 miles and observed the following - the car shifts fine when cold. First symptom appears after about 4 miles. The shift into 3rd becomes more pronounced. After about 10 miles this develops into slipping when changing from 2nd to 3rd. This can be corrected by manually selecting "2" during initial acceleration then back to "D". After another 10 miles it starts slipping in gear (3rd). 

I drained the ATF and it was already coffee colour. Not good. Put in new fluid in with Lucas "stop slip" additive (I'm desperate) and to my surprise, it stopped slipping. I've only driven it twice, but it seems much improved. How long it will last is another matter. I'm thinking worn clutches or split drum at this point. Looks like a rebuild either way.
Have you actually tried swapping the plug?
(17 Aug 2021, 15:43)Chris P Wrote: [ -> ]Have you actually tried swapping the plug?

Electrical problems would not be affected by an anti-slip additive, but for the sake of completeness, yes I've tried the other plug. The car couldn't even get off the drive way.
it's a process of elimination with these tricky faults.

You just have to be careful that you don't inatvertantly, introduce a second fault....then it get MUCH more difficult to sort out.
This ticking noise has developed during the course of my ownership and is slowly getting louder. First thought was valve chatter but I can't hear anything in the rocker cover using a stethoscope. Sounds like its coming from the rear of the engine. It gets faster with RPM and louder with load (so, quiet at idle/light load, loud under acceleration).

Thoughts? I'm currently thinking flex plate.
Could be the idler bearings for the belts? Easy enough to check...they are very prone to failing.
Sounds like an exhaust leak
Could be wear in the distributor shaft making the rotor hit the dizzy cap contacts?

That would speed up with rpm and get excessive under load.
Put a full tank of fuel in for the first time yesterday and noticed a front end fuel leak when I got home. Only seemed to leak with the nose at a downward angle. When I moved it into the garage (level ground) for further investigation, it stopped leaking. 

Anything tips, likely suspects etc. before I start taking things apart? I'm thinking it must near the top and front of the tank to only leak when full and nose down. 

Also, cut wire discovered. Anybody know what it's for?

Those wires look like they could be the cores for your fuel pump? Very dirty so can’t identify through colour. But there should be a feed and return wire to the pump which connect through a chapel/spire plug. Looks like the plug is missing and someone has connected through some inline wire crimps or something instead?

Lots of wet ring evidence surrounding your fuel filler neck, fuel sender and vapour tube (missing its boot?). Can’t see properly around pump area for evidence of leaking…?
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