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I've purchased the DeLorean Europe workshop manual and the microswitch and governor computer cable are on the checklist. 

The cable going to the governor computer is not tight at the throttle end and can be easily deflected. I will need to check it on the other end, but I take this to indicate proper adjustment for idle position. 

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The microswitch engages just before WOT position and makes an audible click when it does so. The manual says to confirm operation with a test light but doesn't say which terminals to probe or whether it should have power when it's at resting position or engaged. Does anyone know?

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Oh, and that box cover that goes in the corner there is the work of Satan. I just can't get it to clip in properly. Does it require some kind of secret handshake before it will go in, or is installation supposed to be self-evident?

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(29 May 2021, 16:08)Justwatching Wrote: [ -> ]Oh, and that box cover that goes in the corner there is the work of Satan. I just can't get it to clip in properly. Does it require some kind of secret handshake before it will go in, or is installation supposed to be self-evident?

My box had a missing metal triangular piece at the bottom corner which "clips" in at the bottom of the box.  I bought one from Ed, but its literally just a little bent piece of triangular aluminium.  Once you've seen what one looks like, you could probably make one yourself.  Then there is supposed to be a tensioner latch at the top corner (I've always had one of these).  I take it yours has both of these?

You have to make sure all the cable are well seated in the foam inserts, and that there is little in the way to be pushing the box open from the inside out.  Even then though, when you get it right, and the box is "clipped in" at the bottom and latched at the top, it's still not the most convincing of fittings, at least on my car.  BUT, it DOES stay in place and seems to do its job.  On top of the two fittings discussed already, as well as these, there is a rubber strap which is supposed to go over the whole lot to help hold it. It's a bit like a "belt and braces" - quite literally, solution.  Again, I was missing this until I bought one from Ed years ago.  I tried fitting that, but gave up because i found it a tad too faffy TBH. ...and it stays in place with the other two fittings fine, so....

If you want photos, let me know.
What the chap above wrote is correct, Big Grin Big Grin  (as always) Tongue Tongue
Out of curiosity you have a ring terminal with a red wire leading to the rear of the car attached to the jump start point. What's this for??
Chris
(29 May 2021, 16:08)Justwatching Wrote: [ -> ]I've purchased the DeLorean Europe workshop manual and the microswitch and governor computer cable are on the checklist. 

The cable going to the governor computer is not tight at the throttle end and can be easily deflected. I will need to check it on the other end, but I take this to indicate proper adjustment for idle position. 



The microswitch engages just before WOT position and makes an audible click when it does so. The manual says to confirm operation with a test light but doesn't say which terminals to probe or whether it should have power when it's at resting position or engaged. Does anyone know?



Oh, and that box cover that goes in the corner there is the work of Satan. I just can't get it to clip in properly. Does it require some kind of secret handshake before it will go in, or is installation supposed to be self-evident?
Now, I've only just spotted a phrase here - 'DeLorean Europe Workshop Manual' - I see there's a 'book' one at about £100, and another 'Manual, Tech Info' one at about £20.  Anyone able to tell me the difference and whether the first is worth the extra?  Thanks!
I don't know anything about this either. Is this just the literature packages offered by Ed on his shop?

There's a freely available sectional area workshop manual which can be digitally downloaded from the internet for free in subsectioned .pdfs. This is the same workshop manual that venders would have used in repairing cars when they were new in the states. Someone years ago very kindly scanned in a copy and it's been available to the community since (It's been available the whole time I've been an owner, so it's been around for over a decade at least)

I also have a paperback version of this, which i can find quite handy to have around when playing with the car, and for keeping in the car with me when i go out. It also makes for bed time reading when working on areas of the car but it's too late to be holding tools any more. Smile

This is available from Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lorean-Factory-...655&sr=8-1

I can make the pdfs available to you if you cant find them yourself with a bit of googling.

(after a 2 min googling myself, i think this may be a viable source without going into forums https://www.carpdfmanual.com/de-lorean/)
(02 Jun 2021, 14:37)Rissy Wrote: [ -> ]I don't know anything about this either.  Is this just the literature packages offered by Ed on his shop?

There's a freely available sectional area workshop manual which can be digitally downloaded from the internet for free in subsectioned .pdfs.  This is the same workshop manual that venders would have used in repairing cars when they were new in the states.  Someone years ago very kindly scanned in a copy and it's been available to the community since (It's been available the whole time I've been an owner, so it's been around for over a decade at least)

I also have a paperback version of this, which i can find quite handy to have around when playing with the car, and for keeping in the car with me when i go out.  It also makes for bed time reading when working on areas of the car but it's too late to be holding tools any more. Smile

This is available from Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lorean-Factory-...655&sr=8-1

I can make the pdfs available to you if you cant find them yourself with a bit of googling.

(after a 2 min googling myself, i think this may be a viable source without going into forums https://www.carpdfmanual.com/de-lorean/)

Cheers!!  :-D
This is the cover box. It's a replacement the seller provided with the car. Thought it was weird he hadn't fitted it. Now I know why! 

Anyway, it looks complete/correct, unless anyone thinks different?

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(29 May 2021, 23:06)Chris Williams Wrote: [ -> ]What the chap above wrote is correct, Big Grin Big Grin  (as always) Tongue Tongue
Out of curiosity you have a ring terminal with a red wire leading to the rear of the car attached to the jump start point. What's this for??
Chris

Some kind of little gizmo box which purports to show battery condition and charge status.
Got 1867 up on sleepers ahead of starting work on the transmission and final drive unit. I had a peak to scope out the job. 

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Here's the governor computer. The plastic arm the cable attaches to swings freely and returns to rest position when released. It sits correctly on the mechanical stop at the end of its travel. I can only locate two bolts - the one you can see and another on the other side of that triangular plastic arm. Had a feel around the top, but didn't notice any others. Is that right?

I also confirmed charge voltage was correct (roughly 14 volts) as this was also on the diagnostic checklist for incorrect gear shifting. 

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Spotted a fuel line failure in progress. 

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Your coil cover looks all present and correct.

I can't discuss auto box detail. Manual guy here.

I'm pretty sure that rubber fuel hose doesn't belong. That should all be hardline there. I think someone in the past has tried to release the threaded fitting from the hardline for the fuel filter, and twisted it; resulting in having to cut it off and join the two ends with hose. Not good. I'd be replacing that hardline now if it was me. Not an easy job though.

https://www.delorean.eu/catalog/product_...s_id=48031
(06 Jun 2021, 20:48)Rissy Wrote: [ -> ]I'm pretty sure that rubber fuel hose doesn't belong.  That should all be hardline there.  I think someone in the past has tried to release the threaded fitting from the hardline for the fuel filter, and twisted it; resulting in having to cut it off and join the two ends with hose.  Not good.  I'd be replacing that hardline now if it was me.  Not an easy job though.

I thought something looked off about it! That's why I crawled over to have a closer look and found the crack. The double clamps just didn't look like a factory solution. So what am I in for replacing that section of hardline?
I left you the link to the part on Ed's site on my last message. Look at the exploded diagram for the fuelling section: https://www.delorean.eu/catalog/index.ph...h=19_25_48

PART #30

You'll have to follow the routing of the pipe itself, but it clearly connects to the fuel accumulator, which means it passes through the frame to get to it. I can't remember intimitely the routing myself.

I'd have to remind myself by looking at any photos I may have which might be helpful. That may take a while.

I do know one of the pipes requires you to remove the centre console from the cabin of the car to get access to the threaded union underneath.

If you're unlucky, it's that one. If you're lucky, it's not, and you'll be able to undo from the accumulator and pull it through and then fitting will be the reverse.
The one to the filter seems to be the most rust-prone of all pipes, and possibly the most damage prone as the filter is changed. Mine was rescuable so I rubbed it down and painted it, but stainless steel ones are available also.
Likewise I cant comment on the Auto not my area I'm afraid. The witchcraft of the Auto I do not understand!
Personally if it was me I would leave the fuel line as is, just replace with new good quality fuel pipe and proper fuel line clamps and all should be fine.
Chris
If you do have to pull the governor computer, then I think it is just those two bolts, yes.... But...

The cable is linked via the L shaped multi plug on the bulkhead to the switching cable, which runs back to the transmission sump. It's a round connector held in with some no 7 Allen screws.

This is the point where it gets fun. Firstly, most Allen sets go from 6 to 8 with no number 7. 

Second, you have to drain the transmission to pull it out. Possibly even pull the sump, I can't remember.

It's worth checking the manual before starting, but it is without doubt a massive PITA.

From memory I think even the manual suggests pulling apart the multi plug as a shortcut!! But ideally you need the switching cable to test that the governor computer is working.
(07 Jun 2021, 19:41)Chris Williams Wrote: [ -> ]Personally if it was me I would leave the fuel line as is, just replace with new good quality fuel pipe and proper fuel line clamps and all should be fine.
Chris

I'm starting to come around to this idea. The car needs other things which are more important to me. A new section of rubber fuel line will do for now.

(07 Jun 2021, 23:38)Rich Hanlon Wrote: [ -> ]From memory I think even the manual suggests pulling apart the multi plug as a shortcut!! But ideally you need the switching cable to test that the governor computer is working.

I wish I had let the importance of that statement sink in before I started taking things apart. I got the governor computer out by doing exactly that (evidence of my trophy below), but DeLoreanGo, which is where I plan to send it for repair, say they need the WHOLE wiring loom. Guess the sump pan is coming off after all. 

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