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Full Version: VIN 5219
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To be honest, no idea. The VIN is 5219. On the doors under the headliner there is no VIN at all, just some hyrogliphics

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As I understand it, the underbody had a label with the last few vin digits and when it was mated with the Chassis, the number was then felt tipped on the back of the chassis.   Perhaps it a defect was found in the body later during assembly, then they simply swapped the body again. (with a later number) But didn't bother changing the felt tip writing? We'll have to ask Nick Sutton..?
I've literally just read the chapter of Nick Sutton's book where he talked about this. He said that they'd have doors marked with the VIN they were going to be attached to, but if they failed quality inspection they'd just grab another set of doors which had already been approved by quality control.
Well im curious as to whats on 5252 now
Actually, turns out that both doors do have VIN 5219 written on them.

A little update on where I am with this car...

I went to go start the car a couple of weekends ago and I got nothing but a relay clicking. So i thought a dodgy starter motor. So i replaced that and still the same.

My volt gauge was reading around 4volts which it shouldnt as the battery is new. After removing the crappy alarm and switch the PO installed and after changing the starter, the volt guage now shows around 9/10 volts. Something else in the car is sucking the juice, what though, i have no idea.

Its clearly something the PO has done as frankly his way of wiring makes cowboys look professional. Ive found (from the alarm) 3 wires going into the cigarette lighter, a grey wire which when followed turns into green, wired into the parcel shelf light. Ive also found wires spliced together too. Its a real headache and i feel my only option is to do a complete rewire which is something i have no idea on where to begin or even to do. 



Just look at this mess...

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EDIT: Ive just watch the latest video dmc texas uploaded about bypasses and stephen wayne mentions that the car will not start without the rpm relay which im missing (should have one arrive in the post tomorrow). So fingers crossed thats the problem and the car will actually start. As you can see mine has the bypass. Still need to work out why im having a drain on power though unless the guage is faulty prehaps

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I did see the wiring pics on facebook. As I wrote...... Quality!
Always best to remove any and everything that has been added and get back to stock. It is worth disconnecting the battery when not in use these cars did have a fault on the door locks that would drain the battery anyway.
Chris
Ive been in the habit of disconnecting the battery when not in use since ive owned the car. I now have a cut off switch which makes things easier.

The alarm and the switch the PO installed (poorly) have been removed and chucked.

Can someone tell me what shouldnt be here behind the drivers seat as i suspect the red and white wires that are wrapped around each other shouldnt be there. They are wired into the clear relay thing.

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None of what you have explicitly mentioned there, are original fit. What they do, and where they go, i'm afraid to say; is over to you to find out and report back if you need to.
Can someone send me a picture of what theres looks like please (the area behind the drivers seat) and the lockable cubby hole please as there is a silver box in there which shouldnt be there i believe. Thanks in advance
I'm sure I have seen wiring/relays like that before. IIRC I seem to think it may be for the electric aerial. However as Chris mentioned best to trace the wires.
Chris
(15 May 2019, 19:30)DMC1983 Wrote: [ -> ]Can someone send me a picture of what theres looks like please (the area behind the drivers seat) and the lockable cubby hole please as there is a silver box in there which shouldnt be there i believe. Thanks in advance

Attachment is what mine looks like, the only extra to stock as far as I know is the red wire I added for the fog lights. No electrics in the cubby hole.
Quote:Can someone send me a picture of what theres looks like please (the area behind the drivers seat) and the lockable cubby hole please as there is a silver box in there which shouldnt be there i believe. Thanks in advance

That'll be your lambda system ecu.

You definately need that (assuming you have a stock engine set up)

And IIRC your lambda system won't be working corrctly without the proper RPM relay

Also note the forth relay on the top row (No. 11 on this diagram) is not a standard relay...

Oh, and yes, the clear plastic relay is for the electric antenna.
This is my relay area. I now also have the RPM relay from DGo installed.

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Annoyingly, something is still pulling the volts down. Ive discovered another one of them red splicing blocks under the dash so i need to trace those wires and get rid of it.
That blue relay, bottom left should have been changed for a simple 3 wire by-pass (factory mod) search fan fail relay modification. Not everyone agrees but often it's recommended to leave the top of the fuse box off to aid cooling. Is all the wiring to the fuse box OK? sometimes you get melted wiring and fuse to usually the fuel pump (IIRC)
Chris
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