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Full Version: Temperature Gauge + Sensor, please help!
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Forgot to report that my temperature gauge is back to life Smile

I found the problem (specific to my D):

The Canadian spec temp gauge (i.e. reads degree Celcius) have a different resistance value (don't know why) as compared to the OEM spec temperature gauge (i.e. reads Fahrenheit).

Once I pop in the Fahrenheit temperature gauge, everything jumps back t life!!!

Note: I have tried numerious canadia spec gauge, all gave the same problem!
Hi guys, I'm still no closer to understanding the fault with my temp gauge, I'm afraid! :?

When grounding the sender, there is a very slight movement with the needle, suggests there might still be a sign of life?

The problem is that the needle itself has completely spun around the wrong way! (see below).

Is it possible it has just got stuck? The battery voltage gauge and door/seatbelt lights are all functioning correctly, so shouldn't need a new gauge, volt/temp cluster would I?

[Image: DMCtempgauge.jpg]

Thanks

Kind regards

Carl
I seem to remember reading that this can happen with a few of the gauges. Either pop the binnacle off and fix it or remove the trip counter and using a bit of thin wire (paper clip un bent) flick it back around!
Chris
Carl, yes your gauge has spun all the way around.

That aparently is caused by what you've just done, ie. grounding the sensor wire (although I've never tried this myself to verify)

You need to tease it back around again. This can be done either by removing the binnacle to access the instrument cluster, or using a thin piece of bent wire through the trip reset hole...
I filled mine up with fuel the other day and the fuel needle went up and right past the full mark. it came down later, what might have caused that?
I've just had the identical problem with mine. Unscrew the black part off the trip meter, there is the just enough room to get a paper clip or small piece of wire down the side of it & you 'flick' the needle back into place.
Dan1986 Wrote:I filled mine up with fuel the other day and the fuel needle went up and right past the full mark. it came down later, what might have caused that?

Hi Dan... Long time no Speak!

I had this last year, it seems when the guage is getting no signal from the sender, it goes right to the top. When I messed with the sender connection under the inspection panel, and an assistant watched the guage, it was apparent it was a loose connection. In your case, I would put it down to the sender itself going open circuit if you filled it right to the brim, and I wouldn't worry about it.
Hi Ben, you've not been online for aaaages! The gauge seems to be fine since then, just one of those delorean moments I think! I have reconnected the connector though when I had my pump out the other day and it seemed fine.

Off topic but I read somewhere you were thinking of selling the D to get a ferrari?
Great tip with the paperclip through the reset hole guys! :wink:

A bit fiddly at first (butter fingers) but managed to twiddle it back around to the right position after a few goes! Big Grin

Now the test to see whether or not that has done the trick, we shall find out tomorrow I guess...

In the meantime, many thanks again for the excellent advice guys, I really appreciate it. Smile

Kind regards

Carl
Dan1986 Wrote:Off topic but I read somewhere you were thinking of selling the D to get a ferrari?

I've had a few internet hitches as of late Dan (ie some wally logging in as me and editing my posts), hence me not being online that much. I had to pull out of Eurotec at the last minute too which couldn't be helped.

As for the ferrari, i'm not entirely sure if it would "replace" the D, or just fulfil the bits the D hasn't got. But when I jump in the D and take it out, I just realise what a jaw dropper it can actually be.

The ferrari I was looking at would be in the 35-45K bracket anyway, and although the D would be part of the funding when sold, I still have to finance the rest of it which could be a few years saving.

In the meantime, I don't plan on letting the D go unless of course I was offered a substantial amount.

Hope your fuel gauge behaves itself, and hope to attend a few more shows soon. Looking forward to seeing your car at the NEC too!

Ben

PS, sorry for taking this thread off topic guys!
It's alive!!! Big Grin

Took the car out on a run to Great Yarmouth yesterday (more on that later)

I'm pleased to say the gauge is working perfectly again, phew, what a relief that is not having to drive along and get paranoid at what temp she might be cooking at! Shock

Thank you very much again for all your help on this guys. It makes a nice change to have such a quick and simple solution, without having to even spend any of the hard earned! Big Grin

All the best

Carl
I've got exaclty the same temp gauge problem now. Battery was flat, so I used a booster pac on her. And now the temp needle (whic was working OK) is dead at the bottom of the dial. The fans are working fine I think, but not seeing any temp reading is freaking me out.

So it sounds like this jump start has resulted in the same temp guage issue. I shall try the paperclip trick when I'm next with her. Finger's crossed that resolves the issue.

Anyone else had experinces of this?

Steve
Avoid Jump Packs buddy... You are better off charging your battery if it's flat and disconnecting it when it's not in use. It takes 2 minutes and I've left mine disconnected for 6 months and it's fine on reconnection.

The trouble with booster packs is this....

If your croc clips are not as tight as a battery clamp, it will lose connection when cranking and 're-contact ' during or after cranking causing surges. These surges are probably not as dangerous on some cars but anything modern or with delicate electronics then avoid at all costs.

You have already discovered why... It may rectify itself with the paper clip trick but next time it might be even more severe.
Noted, lesson learnt.

Steve
Big Grin Happily the temp gauge is working once more. As diagnosed by Bandit and others, the needle (for some reason) had stuck at the bottom of the dial after using a power pack to jump start her.

A narrow cable tie fed through the trip reset hole, flicked the needle back into position. And after 10 minutes or so it started to register the engine temperature once more - phew!

For once an easy and cost free resolution. Good stuff.

Steve
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