These are in the States but how long before someone brings out a UK/EU unit with the appropriate testing & documentation.
To be fair I have always found my D’s headlights to be pretty good I have driven more modern cars with worse lighting. I’m sure the X type has a couple of candles!
(06 May 2018, 22:45)Nick H Wrote: [ -> ]Ed does a stainless steel replacement for that plastic cover above the rear screen. It’s still about £200 but it’s a a whole lot stronger.
On the subject of LED headlights. Am I correct in saying the only reason LED headlights are illegal is that the housing is not designed for LEDs?
These are in the States but how long before someone brings out a UK/EU unit with the appropriate testing & documentation.
To be fair I have always found my D’s headlights to be pretty good I have driven more modern cars with worse lighting. I’m sure the X type has a couple of candles!
Nick H
Hi Nick,
Yes I’m pretty sure it’s because the headlamp units aren’t setup to disperse the pattern correctly.
The halogens I’ve installed look perfectly fine to me though, as you say.
I retrofitted xenons to my S-type, but installed Jag projector headlight housings with them.
(There’s a whole other debate on fitting headlamp washers and levelling.... but we won’t go there )
I’ve seen the stainless finisher for around £170 - I’ll hold off until the end of my (unexpected) project though.
Quote:Also discovered the roof box starting to lift...... a bit annoying
Don't worry about that, it's a lot easier fix than you think. Also gives you the chance to splather (technical term) the inside of the roof box with your preferred anti-rust compound.
Chris
Cheers Chris.
It’s the removal of the torsion bars that scares me when I looked at the process involved.
I’m not sure for the reason they need to be removed - perhaps safety? Or fear of breaking the bars while booting down the box?
Either way, it needs to be done some time soon. Perhaps after MOt.
Quote:On the subject of LED headlights. Am I correct in saying the only reason LED headlights are illegal is that the housing is not designed for LEDs?
I just assumed it was because they could not get the beam pattern correct for our stringent rules. Though I wonder if that will change soon as more and more cars are fitted with them from new. And as a side note these blind everyone anyway!
Quote:It’s the removal of the torsion bars that scares me when I looked at the process involved.
I’m not sure for the reason they need to be removed - perhaps safety? Or fear of breaking the bars while booting down the box?
Who advises that then? I guess someone over on t'other forum. I have seen it done on many occasion with out removal, just open the doors fully to remove some of the tension. I don't dispute it would be better to remove them however, but possible without. I guess the theory is that it completely removes the tension and you can then re-set the tension on the torsion bars correctly with everything bolted in place correctly. However it does not stop you fitting them now as it is now as this would stop it getting any worse and you can treat the roof box then.
Chris
I've carried out the roof box bolt down. As Chris says, just open the doors, take the gas struts off and it opens much further - because you are taking it past it's normal opening you will have relieved virtually all the torque.
It's also the way I fitted my new torsion bar - you don't need all the wooden jigs, 3 men. - you can do it all by yourself quite safely.
I have detailed the process on the Eurotec forum.
P.S. Use mushroom headed bolts on the roof bolt down not hexagonal headed.
P.P.S. Thanks for the flux pic - I got some (but not that one) delivered last week.
Aye, when I looked at the kit to fix it, it mentions there and on the other forum.
I’ll be honest, if I can bolt it down without the need to remove the torsion bars, I’d be happy.
In this instance I guess I can just open the doors fully, remove t-panel, drill holes and bolt down?
Kevin - thanks for the info bud. My doors are opening brilliantly, so hopefully I won’t need to remove the bars...... but I don’t want to mess anything up either.
Quote:In this instance I guess I can just open the doors fully, remove t-panel, drill holes and bolt down?
That's what I did, you can see where I bolted it down in the book! At the very least it prevents it getting worse than it is now.
Chris
Great stuff. Should I detach the gas struts to extend the door further as Kevin mentioned? Or was it enough to have them extended on the struts while you drilled and bolted?
Is it M8 bolts I need? I assume you suggest the mushroom headed so that they are not hard edged when you put the t-panel on Kevin?
Quote:In this instance I guess I can just open the doors fully, remove t-panel, drill holes and bolt down?
That's what I did, you can see where I bolted it down in the book! At the very least it prevents it getting worse than it is now.
Chris
Great stuff. Should I detach the gas struts to extend the door further as Kevin mentioned? Or was it enough to have them extended on the struts while you drilled and bolted?
Is it M8 bolts I need? I assume you suggest the mushroom headed so that they are not hard edged when you put the t-panel on Kevin?
Tris
It's easy to remove the gas strut - just have a secure piece of wood to keep it (the door(s)) way up there - those extra inches help !!!! - you will remove the last vestiges of torque ( or close on) . I believe that they are m8 - I can't remember but can check tonight. I don't like the extra height of the hex headed bolts - judging from the photos on Delorean Go's web site - I believe they have gone over to mushroom heads? The kit has everything you need - instructions, wurth bong bolts washers nuts.
To be honest if you are bolting the roof down I'd get the brackets that stiffen up/repair the door strut mounts too, - a fiddly job but an excellent kit. IMO it's not a question of "if" the strut mounts break ..... it's when ... and if you have taken the car apart to do the roof box you'd be advised to do the strut mounts too. I'm available if you want help doing that - I'm cheap - will work for Rum !!!! :-)
I’ve been a little quiet with updates, but that doesn’t mean I haven’t been busy!
Here’s what’s gone on:
- Cracked epoxy on chassis removed and retreated. (Nothing fancy, just protective spray and a waxoyl for now!)
As a consolidated car, she was already coated in black protection anyway.
- a neat battery isolator switch installed on the battery cover
- new steering gaitors installed (what an absolute pain in the backside that was!!)
- new suspension top bushes fitted
- new horns fitted!! (Although only one side can be connected to work)
- wheels with new tyres now fitted and she’s back on the ground!!!
So I actually got to drive her (reversed) out of the garage and it was awesome!!!!
Still a few bits and pieces to do before MOT, but not much. Perhaps 2 or 3 more Saturdays and it’s MOT time I think!!!!
To do:
- oil and filter change
- gearbox oil change
- fix temp sensor
- fit new fuel sender
- fit fog light conversion
(21 May 2018, 12:41)Stuart Rees Wrote: [ -> ]Nice one Tris, I bet you were tempted to go for a longer drive
Looks like you've bought a good 'un there
I would have loved to..... but best not eh?
It’s funny, I hadn’t taken it as far as the main road and a young lad spotted the rear light as he drove past...... he turned around and came up the small road leading to the house to take pics of the DeLorean!!! We were chatting for 20 mins about the car.......
Amazing the draw these cars have - and I haven’t even taken it on the road yet!! Lol
Ha Ha I just noticed I said Wurth Bong instead of Bond - don't do the first one as things may get a bit hazy lol.
The reason why it has been said to remove the torsion bars is ... .... so that there is no torsional force that is forcing the roof box upwards and you won't be fighting against that "lift" whilst you bolt down. Following my instructions you won't need to remove 'em
You won't be drilling holes anywhere near the torsion bars. I know it probably fills you with trepidation, but it's not hard to do if you follow the instructions with the kit and my instructions regarding the doors.
There is a you tube clip showing you how to remove the struts too.
I'm not far away if you want a hand - but I'm not available over this bank holiday.
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