http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/ Sat, 23 May 2026 06:58:54 +0000 MyBB http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6427 Sun, 26 Nov 2023 22:24:28 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6427
OK, so, happy days, my air con (having been checked over and regassed earlier this summer) now works.
Unfortunately, some as-yet-to-be-determined fault means that my radiator fans don't respond to any 'automatic' signal(s) from anywhere in the car.  Including turning on the air con.
When I got the car, the radiator fan was set to 'permanently on' by means of a connection directly across the otterstat switch (I understand this happens a fair bit?).
A new otterstat hadn't solved the problem.
Up until now, no problem; I installed a manual switch in the cabin and have installed temp sensors in the engine and gauges in the cabin; I keep an eye on those, and if the engine temp warrants it, I turn the rad fans on.  Just means a bit of extra alertness required..!
Of course, this means I also have to turn the rad fans on when the air con is on (again, doesn't come on automatically).
Something obviously amiss somewhere in the rad fan control circuit, but sorting that's a job (on the list!) for another day..

(Sorry, finally getting to the question here!)
Now, the air con/ heater master control knob goes through various 'modes' as you turn it.  IIRC, it's 'max' air con, then 'norm' air con, then 'bi-level', then 'vent', then 'heater' and finally 'defrost'.
Clearly the air con is expected to be ON and I NEED to have the rad fans running for the first two modes.

But (and here, at last, is the question): what other modes is the Air Con system supposed to be nominally 'ON'?  (or in other words, in what other modes does the air con normally activate, in a fully functioning system?)
I have not dared to use anything other than the first two 'air con' modes up 'til this point, 'cos obviously if the air con switches on but the rad fans aren't also on then I could boil (?) or otherwise bu99er up my air con; conversely, I don't want to put the rad fans on unnecessarily if in fact the system is in a mode in which the air con would be 'off'.

I guess a related question is: what does the system actually do in 'bi-level' and 'vent' modes..?
For completeness, my presumption is that warm air is blown into (respectively) the car or up onto the windscreen in the 'heater' or 'defrost' modes.
(but is the air con also on, of course..?)

Look forward to any nuggets of wisdom!!

Cheers aye,

Ivan..]]>
OK, so, happy days, my air con (having been checked over and regassed earlier this summer) now works.
Unfortunately, some as-yet-to-be-determined fault means that my radiator fans don't respond to any 'automatic' signal(s) from anywhere in the car.  Including turning on the air con.
When I got the car, the radiator fan was set to 'permanently on' by means of a connection directly across the otterstat switch (I understand this happens a fair bit?).
A new otterstat hadn't solved the problem.
Up until now, no problem; I installed a manual switch in the cabin and have installed temp sensors in the engine and gauges in the cabin; I keep an eye on those, and if the engine temp warrants it, I turn the rad fans on.  Just means a bit of extra alertness required..!
Of course, this means I also have to turn the rad fans on when the air con is on (again, doesn't come on automatically).
Something obviously amiss somewhere in the rad fan control circuit, but sorting that's a job (on the list!) for another day..

(Sorry, finally getting to the question here!)
Now, the air con/ heater master control knob goes through various 'modes' as you turn it.  IIRC, it's 'max' air con, then 'norm' air con, then 'bi-level', then 'vent', then 'heater' and finally 'defrost'.
Clearly the air con is expected to be ON and I NEED to have the rad fans running for the first two modes.

But (and here, at last, is the question): what other modes is the Air Con system supposed to be nominally 'ON'?  (or in other words, in what other modes does the air con normally activate, in a fully functioning system?)
I have not dared to use anything other than the first two 'air con' modes up 'til this point, 'cos obviously if the air con switches on but the rad fans aren't also on then I could boil (?) or otherwise bu99er up my air con; conversely, I don't want to put the rad fans on unnecessarily if in fact the system is in a mode in which the air con would be 'off'.

I guess a related question is: what does the system actually do in 'bi-level' and 'vent' modes..?
For completeness, my presumption is that warm air is blown into (respectively) the car or up onto the windscreen in the 'heater' or 'defrost' modes.
(but is the air con also on, of course..?)

Look forward to any nuggets of wisdom!!

Cheers aye,

Ivan..]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6407 Sat, 26 Aug 2023 16:44:30 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6407 My AC was tested for leaks recently before getting it refilled and it was all good aside from the plug on the top of the compressor. The original seal for that has deteriorated and needs to be replaced.  This doesn't seem to be a seperatly available part, but is there a cross reference for the type of seal/o-ring that I can get hold of? My local garage didn't have anything suitable to fit on the day, 
The photo shows the nut with the missing seal.

  IMG_20230825_175536~2.jpg (Size: 3 MB / Downloads: 23)
Thanks
Simon]]> My AC was tested for leaks recently before getting it refilled and it was all good aside from the plug on the top of the compressor. The original seal for that has deteriorated and needs to be replaced.  This doesn't seem to be a seperatly available part, but is there a cross reference for the type of seal/o-ring that I can get hold of? My local garage didn't have anything suitable to fit on the day, 
The photo shows the nut with the missing seal.

  IMG_20230825_175536~2.jpg (Size: 3 MB / Downloads: 23)
Thanks
Simon]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6314 Mon, 04 Jul 2022 20:41:22 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6314
Just looking for a few pointers before I try and recommision my AC.

So 1st thing I have no idea how long the system has not been working for, so I had a word with my pet AC guy and he has advised me to do as thorough a visual an inspection as i can manage making sure all the stuff looks like its there, tight, dry and not obviously broken.

Whilst doing so I found this   I,m guessing that the low pressure switch has been bypassed because A the pressure was low or B the switch is stuffed or C something else.

So my guy has advised me to replace the low pressure switch and the dryer accumulater then take it to him and he's going to fill it with nitrogen for a pressure test.

Is there anything else that I may be missing before I change out these parts that may be a Delorean quirk.

Thanks guys

Cheers Mich

  AC .jpg (Size: 23.08 KB / Downloads: 37) ]]>
Just looking for a few pointers before I try and recommision my AC.

So 1st thing I have no idea how long the system has not been working for, so I had a word with my pet AC guy and he has advised me to do as thorough a visual an inspection as i can manage making sure all the stuff looks like its there, tight, dry and not obviously broken.

Whilst doing so I found this   I,m guessing that the low pressure switch has been bypassed because A the pressure was low or B the switch is stuffed or C something else.

So my guy has advised me to replace the low pressure switch and the dryer accumulater then take it to him and he's going to fill it with nitrogen for a pressure test.

Is there anything else that I may be missing before I change out these parts that may be a Delorean quirk.

Thanks guys

Cheers Mich

  AC .jpg (Size: 23.08 KB / Downloads: 37) ]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6271 Tue, 25 Jan 2022 20:44:58 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6271
So i need to recharge my aircon before the summer and have been told the only options are R134 and RS24. I'm told RS24 is a straight swap for the original R12 whereas R134 is slightly different. From a quick look around it seems a lot of people are using R134 so i just wondered if anyone out there has used RS24 and if so what's your experience? If RS24 is a straight swap, why isnt everyone using it?

thanks!]]>
So i need to recharge my aircon before the summer and have been told the only options are R134 and RS24. I'm told RS24 is a straight swap for the original R12 whereas R134 is slightly different. From a quick look around it seems a lot of people are using R134 so i just wondered if anyone out there has used RS24 and if so what's your experience? If RS24 is a straight swap, why isnt everyone using it?

thanks!]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6089 Thu, 22 Oct 2020 15:13:20 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6089
Any help gratefully received.

Cheers

Steve]]>
Any help gratefully received.

Cheers

Steve]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5977 Sat, 15 Jun 2019 17:21:59 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5977
I thought I will share my project in regards of automation of heater box. As my project car #4454 is undergoing resto-modification, all parts are reviewed and upgraded if possible.
I explain most of the details in video attached.
if you want to know prior to watching - I did standard renovation of box, but also lined it inside with silver tape to increase efficiency. On top of that I've added electric stepper motor to control air mixing flap (no more mechanical cable). Direction flaps are still based on vacuum actuators, but those are connected to air solenoids. Heart of this project is Arduino microprocessor that will be also gathering data from few temperature sensors, to achieve demanded cabin temperature (this will be set by dial knob).
For testing purposes I'm using touch screen, but vehicle control panel will have knob. More in video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U54ae7XVkqA

regards,
Marek]]>
I thought I will share my project in regards of automation of heater box. As my project car #4454 is undergoing resto-modification, all parts are reviewed and upgraded if possible.
I explain most of the details in video attached.
if you want to know prior to watching - I did standard renovation of box, but also lined it inside with silver tape to increase efficiency. On top of that I've added electric stepper motor to control air mixing flap (no more mechanical cable). Direction flaps are still based on vacuum actuators, but those are connected to air solenoids. Heart of this project is Arduino microprocessor that will be also gathering data from few temperature sensors, to achieve demanded cabin temperature (this will be set by dial knob).
For testing purposes I'm using touch screen, but vehicle control panel will have knob. More in video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U54ae7XVkqA

regards,
Marek]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5844 Sun, 01 Jul 2018 19:52:36 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5844 As you can guess, the aircon is not working..... my first port of call is to get her checked for leaks and recharged.
But, as I’ve read, our cars are charged with r12 gas and the newer r134a needs upgrades to the system...... question is what to do?

I don’t really want to start replacing parts of the system just yet!

I have an aircon guy I use, so I will contact him of course, but how do you guys manage with getting regassed?


Cheers
Tris]]> As you can guess, the aircon is not working..... my first port of call is to get her checked for leaks and recharged.
But, as I’ve read, our cars are charged with r12 gas and the newer r134a needs upgrades to the system...... question is what to do?

I don’t really want to start replacing parts of the system just yet!

I have an aircon guy I use, so I will contact him of course, but how do you guys manage with getting regassed?


Cheers
Tris]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5838 Sun, 24 Jun 2018 07:18:14 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5838 While I was working on the car yesterday and turned the ignition on (not started) the rad fans kicked in immediately.
Last time I drove her was the 30mile round trip to the MOT a week ago.
So I guess the otter switch is stuck open (or closed...whichever keeps the fans on). I will disconnect the wire to check.

But I hear that an Austin Metro switch is suitable?
Does this look like the right one to those in the know?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=...2343683493

Tris

---

Was just reading a Renault alpine forum and there are a few cross reference parts for the metro switch...

VRF 311
Intermotor 50056
XEFS56

Rad fan switch 86-92 degrees

Found this for £2
https://www.amazon.co.uk/QUINTON-HAZELL-...B006EM07EW]]> While I was working on the car yesterday and turned the ignition on (not started) the rad fans kicked in immediately.
Last time I drove her was the 30mile round trip to the MOT a week ago.
So I guess the otter switch is stuck open (or closed...whichever keeps the fans on). I will disconnect the wire to check.

But I hear that an Austin Metro switch is suitable?
Does this look like the right one to those in the know?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=...2343683493

Tris

---

Was just reading a Renault alpine forum and there are a few cross reference parts for the metro switch...

VRF 311
Intermotor 50056
XEFS56

Rad fan switch 86-92 degrees

Found this for £2
https://www.amazon.co.uk/QUINTON-HAZELL-...B006EM07EW]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5656 Sun, 18 Jun 2017 18:41:10 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5656 Hello owners!
 
I thought I will write little article about Air Con (A/C) system on D as it is not the best design from electrical point of view. I will focus on electrical part as I'm Electrical Engineer working in automotive, so I know how it should be done properly.
 
Let's assume that your A/C system is filled with gas to correct pressure, engine is running, but no cold air is coming from vents, neither compressor is kicking in. I assume also that your fuses and relays are OK.






I suggest diagnosis in reverse:
 
1. Your compressor is not kicking in when you turn on A/C on (engine running, your fan at speed 1 minimum). That can be easily diagnosed - your compressor pulley is not engaging - this can be seen/heard.
To check if fault is with compressor (electromagnetic clutch) you disconnect RED wire that is on top of it and bypass it straight to +12V on your battery. Good practice is to use wire with fuse (in this case I would use 15-20A fuse and 1.5mm^2 wire) as in case of short on your clutch you will blow fuse, not melt wire!
 
REMEMBER TO SUPPLY POWER TO COMPRESSOR ONLY FOR FEW SECONDS! If you leave power permanently system will generate too high pressure and pipe will explode and release gas! You doing this only for diagnostic purpose. When A/C is on, compressor goes on and off all the time to keep certain pressure! It is not working all the time.
 
 
If you compressor is working once you supply power, it means problem is somewhere else. If compressor is seized you will see some serious shit happening with your belt, so be prepared (Always were adequate protection, in this case Safety Glasses)!

Once you done with diagnosing, remember to reconnect wire to original terminal!
 
2. Low pressure switch is your next suspect! Why? Unfortunately it is related to overall system design. When you energize compressor clutch, there is huge current spike as electromagnetic clutch is a big coil. This is causing sparking on all contacts (working contacts) all way down starting with your A/C Instrument Panel mode switch, through pressure switches. Sparking is causing contacts corrosion which after X amount of cycles will stop conducting current and results in your A/C not working at all. I would like to believe that whole system was designed to be operating witch such current spikes, but I have my doubts. To make it bulletproof you can make one small improvement that will let you forget about A/C electrical issues, but I will talk about this on the end of my post.

Now let’s go back to low pressure switch:



 
 
This switch is in open state when there is too low pressure in system. When pressure is correct, it should be closed.
Disconnect wires from it and check terminals for corrosion. Check with multimeter if switch is closed state (Remember, I assumed on beginning that you have correct gas pressure in system) . If switch is showing open state, then there is possibility that :
a) your gas pressure is too low to operate and you need to re-gas it (my assumption was wrong! You did not check it in first place! )
or
b) your pressure switch is faulty!
This can be replaced even with gas in system, however sometimes valve might be stuck and when you will be removing it, it will release some portion of gas with oil (ON YOUR FACE!) so please use all protective equipment like safety glasses/mask to cover your face and gloves. I would not remove it until you have replacement.
 
If you sure that your gas pressure is correct (as your system was just regased and checked for leaks!), you can short that switch and check if your compressor will kick in (engine running! fan speed 1 minimum). You short it using fuse (15A-20A). Basically, push on connectors on fuse. If it starts, you got faulty low pressure switch. Shorting this switch is only dangerous if you have no gas/oil in system as you will seize compressor. Remember, you are shorting this only to diagnose the system.
 
If switch is in closed state then go to next point :
 
3. High pressure switch
 

 
This switch is normally in closed state. Will be open once Air Con system will reach some certain value (preventing your system from blowing up. That is why in section 1. I warned you about not running your compressor for more than for few seconds as by-passing this switch is dangerous for longer than few seconds).
Diagnosis - remove connectors from switch and check for corrosion. Check using multimeter if switch is showing closed circuit. If no and you know that your gas pressure is correct you can short connector for few seconds using 15A-20A fuse to check if your compressor will kick in. If it will kick in, you got faulty high pressure switch. If nothing happens, go to next point.
 
4. A/C Panel
 
 
 
Your MODE SWITCH contacts might be worn due to sparking, as I said before, whole load to compressor goes through switches. Here is example of contact corrosion:
 

 
That deposit on your contacts prevents conduction. Good thing is that this can be rescued with some contact cleaner and really fine sand paper (800+). Removing HVAC panel takes a bit of time, so I would leave it for the end as I did in this tutorial.
Once all those elements are checked and in working condition your system should be in working order, unless wiring is damaged.

To diagnose that you will need multimeter with buzzer option to “ring” wires. If you own a DeLorean you possibly have wiring diagram, if not, it can be easily found on the internet.  Here is snapshot of important bit:




High pressure switch is between number 90 and 91 where you have a bump on diagram. Not sure why it is not marked there.

To make system bulletproof from electrical point of view you need to make little upgrade. Basically, you need to introduce a relay that will take a load from switches contacts. It can be added in the cabin or in engine room. Decision is up to you.

Cabin option: you will need to find wire in passenger legroom going back to compressor. That wire will control relay. On top of that you will have to get +12V and Earth, so system can work. Remember that your +12V can’t go straight from battery. You need to introduce fuse (I suggest 15-20A fuse and 1.5mm^2 wire). Earth can be local or straight from negative post of battery. You will have to fix your relay somewhere next to HVAC. You can use relay/relay base with fixing point or introduce relay box (this will help to soundproof relay cycling sound).

Engine room option: you will have to disconnect compressor flying lead and extend wire long enough to reach your relay (+ return wire to energize compressor clutch). This wire will be controlling relay. As in cabin option, you will have to get +12V and earth, so system can work. This solution is for “purists” as does not involve cutting OEM wiring and can be reversed by disconnecting upgrade kit (BUT WHY WOULD YOU WANT THAT?!), however relay/relay box will be visible in engine room.

Your circuit should look like this after modification:

Remember to put your relay in dry place or introduce a relay box to cover it when exposed to moisture. Don’t be cheap and invest in relay base. In case of relay fault, replacement will be easy.

If you want go step further you can get a relay with fuse. However this can be only used next to battery or when you connecting to already fused line. Reason is that if your wire shorts to ground before this fuse, it will melt wire/boil battery as there is no protection on that portion.

I hope that somebody will find this short article helpful. Unfortunately, I don’t have photos of switches locations (I do not own DeLorean yet, but worked on them).
I bet somebody will upload them under my post... (be that guy!)
If you have any doubt, think there is mistake in what I wrote, please let me know. I will try to explain more or correct my mistake.


Remember, this tutorial describes only electrical part of A/C system. It assumes that mechanical part is in working order.

kind regards,
Marek]]> Hello owners!
 
I thought I will write little article about Air Con (A/C) system on D as it is not the best design from electrical point of view. I will focus on electrical part as I'm Electrical Engineer working in automotive, so I know how it should be done properly.
 
Let's assume that your A/C system is filled with gas to correct pressure, engine is running, but no cold air is coming from vents, neither compressor is kicking in. I assume also that your fuses and relays are OK.






I suggest diagnosis in reverse:
 
1. Your compressor is not kicking in when you turn on A/C on (engine running, your fan at speed 1 minimum). That can be easily diagnosed - your compressor pulley is not engaging - this can be seen/heard.
To check if fault is with compressor (electromagnetic clutch) you disconnect RED wire that is on top of it and bypass it straight to +12V on your battery. Good practice is to use wire with fuse (in this case I would use 15-20A fuse and 1.5mm^2 wire) as in case of short on your clutch you will blow fuse, not melt wire!
 
REMEMBER TO SUPPLY POWER TO COMPRESSOR ONLY FOR FEW SECONDS! If you leave power permanently system will generate too high pressure and pipe will explode and release gas! You doing this only for diagnostic purpose. When A/C is on, compressor goes on and off all the time to keep certain pressure! It is not working all the time.
 
 
If you compressor is working once you supply power, it means problem is somewhere else. If compressor is seized you will see some serious shit happening with your belt, so be prepared (Always were adequate protection, in this case Safety Glasses)!

Once you done with diagnosing, remember to reconnect wire to original terminal!
 
2. Low pressure switch is your next suspect! Why? Unfortunately it is related to overall system design. When you energize compressor clutch, there is huge current spike as electromagnetic clutch is a big coil. This is causing sparking on all contacts (working contacts) all way down starting with your A/C Instrument Panel mode switch, through pressure switches. Sparking is causing contacts corrosion which after X amount of cycles will stop conducting current and results in your A/C not working at all. I would like to believe that whole system was designed to be operating witch such current spikes, but I have my doubts. To make it bulletproof you can make one small improvement that will let you forget about A/C electrical issues, but I will talk about this on the end of my post.

Now let’s go back to low pressure switch:



 
 
This switch is in open state when there is too low pressure in system. When pressure is correct, it should be closed.
Disconnect wires from it and check terminals for corrosion. Check with multimeter if switch is closed state (Remember, I assumed on beginning that you have correct gas pressure in system) . If switch is showing open state, then there is possibility that :
a) your gas pressure is too low to operate and you need to re-gas it (my assumption was wrong! You did not check it in first place! )
or
b) your pressure switch is faulty!
This can be replaced even with gas in system, however sometimes valve might be stuck and when you will be removing it, it will release some portion of gas with oil (ON YOUR FACE!) so please use all protective equipment like safety glasses/mask to cover your face and gloves. I would not remove it until you have replacement.
 
If you sure that your gas pressure is correct (as your system was just regased and checked for leaks!), you can short that switch and check if your compressor will kick in (engine running! fan speed 1 minimum). You short it using fuse (15A-20A). Basically, push on connectors on fuse. If it starts, you got faulty low pressure switch. Shorting this switch is only dangerous if you have no gas/oil in system as you will seize compressor. Remember, you are shorting this only to diagnose the system.
 
If switch is in closed state then go to next point :
 
3. High pressure switch
 

 
This switch is normally in closed state. Will be open once Air Con system will reach some certain value (preventing your system from blowing up. That is why in section 1. I warned you about not running your compressor for more than for few seconds as by-passing this switch is dangerous for longer than few seconds).
Diagnosis - remove connectors from switch and check for corrosion. Check using multimeter if switch is showing closed circuit. If no and you know that your gas pressure is correct you can short connector for few seconds using 15A-20A fuse to check if your compressor will kick in. If it will kick in, you got faulty high pressure switch. If nothing happens, go to next point.
 
4. A/C Panel
 
 
 
Your MODE SWITCH contacts might be worn due to sparking, as I said before, whole load to compressor goes through switches. Here is example of contact corrosion:
 

 
That deposit on your contacts prevents conduction. Good thing is that this can be rescued with some contact cleaner and really fine sand paper (800+). Removing HVAC panel takes a bit of time, so I would leave it for the end as I did in this tutorial.
Once all those elements are checked and in working condition your system should be in working order, unless wiring is damaged.

To diagnose that you will need multimeter with buzzer option to “ring” wires. If you own a DeLorean you possibly have wiring diagram, if not, it can be easily found on the internet.  Here is snapshot of important bit:




High pressure switch is between number 90 and 91 where you have a bump on diagram. Not sure why it is not marked there.

To make system bulletproof from electrical point of view you need to make little upgrade. Basically, you need to introduce a relay that will take a load from switches contacts. It can be added in the cabin or in engine room. Decision is up to you.

Cabin option: you will need to find wire in passenger legroom going back to compressor. That wire will control relay. On top of that you will have to get +12V and Earth, so system can work. Remember that your +12V can’t go straight from battery. You need to introduce fuse (I suggest 15-20A fuse and 1.5mm^2 wire). Earth can be local or straight from negative post of battery. You will have to fix your relay somewhere next to HVAC. You can use relay/relay base with fixing point or introduce relay box (this will help to soundproof relay cycling sound).

Engine room option: you will have to disconnect compressor flying lead and extend wire long enough to reach your relay (+ return wire to energize compressor clutch). This wire will be controlling relay. As in cabin option, you will have to get +12V and earth, so system can work. This solution is for “purists” as does not involve cutting OEM wiring and can be reversed by disconnecting upgrade kit (BUT WHY WOULD YOU WANT THAT?!), however relay/relay box will be visible in engine room.

Your circuit should look like this after modification:

Remember to put your relay in dry place or introduce a relay box to cover it when exposed to moisture. Don’t be cheap and invest in relay base. In case of relay fault, replacement will be easy.

If you want go step further you can get a relay with fuse. However this can be only used next to battery or when you connecting to already fused line. Reason is that if your wire shorts to ground before this fuse, it will melt wire/boil battery as there is no protection on that portion.

I hope that somebody will find this short article helpful. Unfortunately, I don’t have photos of switches locations (I do not own DeLorean yet, but worked on them).
I bet somebody will upload them under my post... (be that guy!)
If you have any doubt, think there is mistake in what I wrote, please let me know. I will try to explain more or correct my mistake.


Remember, this tutorial describes only electrical part of A/C system. It assumes that mechanical part is in working order.

kind regards,
Marek]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5535 Tue, 20 Sep 2016 12:35:14 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5535 The system held pressure, filled with 950g of R134a plus oil and dye.

Aircon now works better than it ever did.

Well chuffed!]]> The system held pressure, filled with 950g of R134a plus oil and dye.

Aircon now works better than it ever did.

Well chuffed!]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5071 Wed, 10 Jun 2015 20:48:44 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5071
Thanks in advance]]>
Thanks in advance]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4620 Mon, 04 Aug 2014 19:17:57 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4620 I'm guessing a few of us have or have had this problem since the outlawing of R12 gas, so i'm hoping for a few great ideas!

My system has a leak but I can't remember where(!) but finding someone to look at it is becoming quite difficult!
I've been ringing around and no one has or is prepared to deal with anything but the modern r134a.

Even a chap from Hove who services classic cars offered a 'conversion' to R134a saying it's fairly easy these days - but in recent DOC forum posts this doesn't seem sensible....is this still a valid point?

My options:- send Frenchy to Chris at PJ Grady and say 'help'? (Cost!?)
Or does anyone know of a company with an R12 alternative drop in gas? (Preferably within, say, 40 miles of here - West Sx, RH20)

Many thanks for any help...
Mat]]> I'm guessing a few of us have or have had this problem since the outlawing of R12 gas, so i'm hoping for a few great ideas!

My system has a leak but I can't remember where(!) but finding someone to look at it is becoming quite difficult!
I've been ringing around and no one has or is prepared to deal with anything but the modern r134a.

Even a chap from Hove who services classic cars offered a 'conversion' to R134a saying it's fairly easy these days - but in recent DOC forum posts this doesn't seem sensible....is this still a valid point?

My options:- send Frenchy to Chris at PJ Grady and say 'help'? (Cost!?)
Or does anyone know of a company with an R12 alternative drop in gas? (Preferably within, say, 40 miles of here - West Sx, RH20)

Many thanks for any help...
Mat]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4378 Tue, 18 Mar 2014 00:27:19 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4378
I dont suppose anyone knows the ID's of the hoses I have arrowed in the diagram below??

While the gearbox is out, it would definately be a good idea to change these. They are well past their best on VIN814!!

[ATTACHMENT NOT FOUND]

Any idea, or do I have to measure them?? Easier said than done with a car 450 miles away...!

Cheers, it was just on the offchance...

andy]]>
I dont suppose anyone knows the ID's of the hoses I have arrowed in the diagram below??

While the gearbox is out, it would definately be a good idea to change these. They are well past their best on VIN814!!

[ATTACHMENT NOT FOUND]

Any idea, or do I have to measure them?? Easier said than done with a car 450 miles away...!

Cheers, it was just on the offchance...

andy]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4091 Wed, 31 Jul 2013 19:50:00 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4091 He has confirmed that the gas is low but he cannot top it up with R12 as it is no longer available.
He has suggested asking if anyone knows of someone who can charge it up with/supply/recommend a 'drop in' gas?
Alternatively is there a recommended procedure for converting to r134a?

I realise there are a lot of comments regarding this subject but I just wondered what the latest advice was on this.

Any advice would be appreciated

Thanks

Mike]]> He has confirmed that the gas is low but he cannot top it up with R12 as it is no longer available.
He has suggested asking if anyone knows of someone who can charge it up with/supply/recommend a 'drop in' gas?
Alternatively is there a recommended procedure for converting to r134a?

I realise there are a lot of comments regarding this subject but I just wondered what the latest advice was on this.

Any advice would be appreciated

Thanks

Mike]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4044 Mon, 08 Jul 2013 06:08:30 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4044
no matter what setting i put it on the blower fan wont come on.
i've changed the fuse but it didn't make any difference

im pretty sure the fan speed switch is working as you can hear the relays clicking when you switch to speeds 3 and 4.

my suspicion is the mode switch as im getting a hissing noise when i switch between modes.

does this seem a likely cause?

if i understood the diagrams correctly the mode switch supplies the power to the fan speed control and then to the blower motor so i guess if its not working properly then the fan wont start?

Simon.]]>
no matter what setting i put it on the blower fan wont come on.
i've changed the fuse but it didn't make any difference

im pretty sure the fan speed switch is working as you can hear the relays clicking when you switch to speeds 3 and 4.

my suspicion is the mode switch as im getting a hissing noise when i switch between modes.

does this seem a likely cause?

if i understood the diagrams correctly the mode switch supplies the power to the fan speed control and then to the blower motor so i guess if its not working properly then the fan wont start?

Simon.]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3901 Sun, 14 Apr 2013 13:41:41 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3901
Just to summarise, I have recently replaced the heater core, evaporator and radiator.

Some weeks ago I filled with the old coolant to flush the system....

I then drained and filled with fresh coolant and everything works.... The heater works fine, the radiator fans kick in, system fully bled so all ok there...

But on my mind the last few weeks has been the heater core pipes. I didnt label them and ferreting about connecting other things up they got mixed up...

To throw a spanner in the works, the core pipes dont come out of the bulkhead top and bottom either as they did... more like left and right so ive no idea which is the inlet or outlet....

Saying that its working fine as it is.... but will it be putting any strain on the system if the coolant has to find its way up through the core instead of down?

The coolant goes up down and around bends and through valves anyway granted...

But if the pipes arw technically on the wrong way, how will I know and will it do any damage?

Cheers]]>
Just to summarise, I have recently replaced the heater core, evaporator and radiator.

Some weeks ago I filled with the old coolant to flush the system....

I then drained and filled with fresh coolant and everything works.... The heater works fine, the radiator fans kick in, system fully bled so all ok there...

But on my mind the last few weeks has been the heater core pipes. I didnt label them and ferreting about connecting other things up they got mixed up...

To throw a spanner in the works, the core pipes dont come out of the bulkhead top and bottom either as they did... more like left and right so ive no idea which is the inlet or outlet....

Saying that its working fine as it is.... but will it be putting any strain on the system if the coolant has to find its way up through the core instead of down?

The coolant goes up down and around bends and through valves anyway granted...

But if the pipes arw technically on the wrong way, how will I know and will it do any damage?

Cheers]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3887 Sun, 07 Apr 2013 20:17:30 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3887
I have spent some months with the heater box removed from the car and in effect has to replace the evaporator seeing as I was already in there.

When reconnecting the evaporator I used new seals etc but the pipes were at different angles to the originals and that made reconnecting the accumulator tricky without cross threading the nuts... theres just no room for movement under there.

Anyway its all back together and just to emphasise that when I bought my car 7 years go, the a/c cycled a lot but it did work. As time went on it stopped working but I did have it charged with a mickey mouse aerosol can which made it work for a brief time afterwards. The system still had pressure in it before I removed the evaporator and it appeared to have green anti leak detection dye in the system too....

However there was a small split in one of the hoses that attached to the accumulator... I guess it was one that ran to to condenser at the front but not entirely sure....

The split was superficial and appeared to have an internal braided hose inside... which is probably sealed internally too. I dont want to have to replace this unless absolutely neccessary and there was no evidence of leakage there...

Ok to go ahead and have a recharge and a leak sealer additive with the pag oil?

She was running 134a before though I dont know if Chriss Spratt did any upgrades to make this totally bulletproof..

Cheers]]>
I have spent some months with the heater box removed from the car and in effect has to replace the evaporator seeing as I was already in there.

When reconnecting the evaporator I used new seals etc but the pipes were at different angles to the originals and that made reconnecting the accumulator tricky without cross threading the nuts... theres just no room for movement under there.

Anyway its all back together and just to emphasise that when I bought my car 7 years go, the a/c cycled a lot but it did work. As time went on it stopped working but I did have it charged with a mickey mouse aerosol can which made it work for a brief time afterwards. The system still had pressure in it before I removed the evaporator and it appeared to have green anti leak detection dye in the system too....

However there was a small split in one of the hoses that attached to the accumulator... I guess it was one that ran to to condenser at the front but not entirely sure....

The split was superficial and appeared to have an internal braided hose inside... which is probably sealed internally too. I dont want to have to replace this unless absolutely neccessary and there was no evidence of leakage there...

Ok to go ahead and have a recharge and a leak sealer additive with the pag oil?

She was running 134a before though I dont know if Chriss Spratt did any upgrades to make this totally bulletproof..

Cheers]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3684 Mon, 10 Dec 2012 14:25:31 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3684

When I took my heater box out i didnt realise this wasnt connected to anything and its apparent it hasnt for some time. A previous owner obviously took a t piece and a length of pipe out and made it redundant.

It doesnt work anyway so it will have to replace it if I want it working.... Question is, why has it been disconnected in the first place and how important is it? Is it a know failure point or does is get clogged etc?

I know exactly how to plumb it back in but if theres no point I wont bother.....

Advice please guys!]]>

When I took my heater box out i didnt realise this wasnt connected to anything and its apparent it hasnt for some time. A previous owner obviously took a t piece and a length of pipe out and made it redundant.

It doesnt work anyway so it will have to replace it if I want it working.... Question is, why has it been disconnected in the first place and how important is it? Is it a know failure point or does is get clogged etc?

I know exactly how to plumb it back in but if theres no point I wont bother.....

Advice please guys!]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3661 Mon, 19 Nov 2012 22:20:25 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3661
Note shiny stuff in the air duct is coolant...

On this picture I presume the yelllowish hoses are the matrix/heater core pipes and the black gooey one has the aircon evaporator pipes inside.. correct me if im wrong but this is new to me....

First I started on some interior removal...


Followed by more.... carpets will have a proper clean now they are out....



That is as far as I got today... as from wednesday, we will have electricity in our unit enabling me to do far more before the nights get dark... will also be able to use the 4 post ramp... what a godsend that will be.

Any tips on this would be greatly appreciated....the carpets will not be going back in until the radiator and all leaks are proven to be cured!

It was bad enough getting that console out, i am not looking forward to the a/c panel and what lurks behind!

Cheers all

MrP]]>
Note shiny stuff in the air duct is coolant...

On this picture I presume the yelllowish hoses are the matrix/heater core pipes and the black gooey one has the aircon evaporator pipes inside.. correct me if im wrong but this is new to me....

First I started on some interior removal...


Followed by more.... carpets will have a proper clean now they are out....



That is as far as I got today... as from wednesday, we will have electricity in our unit enabling me to do far more before the nights get dark... will also be able to use the 4 post ramp... what a godsend that will be.

Any tips on this would be greatly appreciated....the carpets will not be going back in until the radiator and all leaks are proven to be cured!

It was bad enough getting that console out, i am not looking forward to the a/c panel and what lurks behind!

Cheers all

MrP]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3535 Tue, 24 Jul 2012 17:03:28 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3535
thanks]]>
thanks]]>