http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/ Fri, 25 Sep 2026 06:59:30 +0000 MyBB http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6418 Mon, 16 Oct 2023 17:21:28 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6418
BF Goodrich make a suitable rear tyre in their T/A Radial range with raised white lettering. Closest thing they're got for the front is 205/70 R14. I probably don't have to change my tyres for several years, so it's a bit academic, but curious if anyone has fitted a slightly larger tyre on the front and if it looks okay?]]>
BF Goodrich make a suitable rear tyre in their T/A Radial range with raised white lettering. Closest thing they're got for the front is 205/70 R14. I probably don't have to change my tyres for several years, so it's a bit academic, but curious if anyone has fitted a slightly larger tyre on the front and if it looks okay?]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6410 Sun, 03 Sep 2023 19:37:44 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6410 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6264 Thu, 06 Jan 2022 12:38:57 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6264
As I'm still very much a newbee as my car has not even arrived yet I'm asking questions and I guess this is a difficult topic.

Finding a missmatched size set of 4 tyres same make and tread pattern and something which has a half decent fuel (although not to important) rating and wet weather grip (much more important).

No doubt easy in the US but i'm finding it more difficult in the UK.

So question is do any of you guy's alter the profile or tyre size to get a matched pair or does anyone alter there profile and tyres size to get a better ride / handling? 

Any input would be apreciated as I start to get to grips with my DeLorean knowledge base 

Cheers
Mich1958]]>
As I'm still very much a newbee as my car has not even arrived yet I'm asking questions and I guess this is a difficult topic.

Finding a missmatched size set of 4 tyres same make and tread pattern and something which has a half decent fuel (although not to important) rating and wet weather grip (much more important).

No doubt easy in the US but i'm finding it more difficult in the UK.

So question is do any of you guy's alter the profile or tyre size to get a matched pair or does anyone alter there profile and tyres size to get a better ride / handling? 

Any input would be apreciated as I start to get to grips with my DeLorean knowledge base 

Cheers
Mich1958]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6190 Sat, 10 Jul 2021 17:56:56 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6190
The brakes have not felt right and whilst up on axle stands, I noticed the offside front calliper was binding.

I ordered a rebuild kit and new flexible hoses and everything is back together, but I just can't get the fluid to come through whilst bleeding.

My partner and kids can only take so much down, up, down, up.. so had to call it a day tonight.

I have one of those pressurised brake bleed kits and i works great on my Mercedes, but the kit does not fit the DeLorean's brake fluid reservoir

Anyone have an alternative solutions..?

cheers!]]>
The brakes have not felt right and whilst up on axle stands, I noticed the offside front calliper was binding.

I ordered a rebuild kit and new flexible hoses and everything is back together, but I just can't get the fluid to come through whilst bleeding.

My partner and kids can only take so much down, up, down, up.. so had to call it a day tonight.

I have one of those pressurised brake bleed kits and i works great on my Mercedes, but the kit does not fit the DeLorean's brake fluid reservoir

Anyone have an alternative solutions..?

cheers!]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6159 Fri, 30 Apr 2021 19:18:39 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6159 A conventional wheel from a Mazda MX5 was damn close, - it fitted the front but the rear just fouled on a small casting protruding from the rear brake caliper. I was getting ready to file off that casting when I tried a Wheel, again from a Mazda MX5 2005, that was a Wolfrace wheel and it was as if it was made for the D.
Ok, so it uses a 195 50 R15, but it fits the wheel well - it's just taller than a space saver!
The prices of original spare wheels has all gone a bit silly over recent years, so I was happy to get this one. 
Photo 1 - rear and it clears the caliper perfectly
Photo 2 - shows the internal profile of the wheel
Photo 3 - shows clearance around the front wheel bearing race
Photo 4 shows the plastic centre cap Wolfrace Asia Tec
Photo 5 - shows the size of the Wolfrace wheel per the casting marks (Other marks showed that the wheel must have been after market. The car was 2005 and the wheels were made in July 2008).

Very happy to have found something that works and saved a bloody fortune !

  01 wheel on back.jpg (Size: 39.29 KB / Downloads: 30)

  02 wheel shot.jpg (Size: 79.41 KB / Downloads: 30)

  front hub.jpg (Size: 70.48 KB / Downloads: 30)

  wolfrace asia tec.jpg (Size: 80.13 KB / Downloads: 30)

  fifteen 6.5 J.jpg (Size: 58.53 KB / Downloads: 29) ]]> A conventional wheel from a Mazda MX5 was damn close, - it fitted the front but the rear just fouled on a small casting protruding from the rear brake caliper. I was getting ready to file off that casting when I tried a Wheel, again from a Mazda MX5 2005, that was a Wolfrace wheel and it was as if it was made for the D.
Ok, so it uses a 195 50 R15, but it fits the wheel well - it's just taller than a space saver!
The prices of original spare wheels has all gone a bit silly over recent years, so I was happy to get this one. 
Photo 1 - rear and it clears the caliper perfectly
Photo 2 - shows the internal profile of the wheel
Photo 3 - shows clearance around the front wheel bearing race
Photo 4 shows the plastic centre cap Wolfrace Asia Tec
Photo 5 - shows the size of the Wolfrace wheel per the casting marks (Other marks showed that the wheel must have been after market. The car was 2005 and the wheels were made in July 2008).

Very happy to have found something that works and saved a bloody fortune !

  01 wheel on back.jpg (Size: 39.29 KB / Downloads: 30)

  02 wheel shot.jpg (Size: 79.41 KB / Downloads: 30)

  front hub.jpg (Size: 70.48 KB / Downloads: 30)

  wolfrace asia tec.jpg (Size: 80.13 KB / Downloads: 30)

  fifteen 6.5 J.jpg (Size: 58.53 KB / Downloads: 29) ]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6055 Sun, 10 May 2020 23:37:58 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6055
I'm trying to fit the new Goodridge brake flexis

  IMG_20200511_003454450.jpg (Size: 47.64 KB / Downloads: 58)
I bought at the NEC but the large nuts which supposedly fit into the hexagonal recesses on the frame

  IMG_20200511_003042049.jpg (Size: 31.23 KB / Downloads: 57)
are too big by quite a lot - like 17mm AF instead of 15mm

  IMG_20200511_003139519.jpg (Size: 56.29 KB / Downloads: 57)
or thereabouts. It's the same all round and on the trailing arms too.

How have people managed to get these to fit? And or where did people track down the correct size nuts?

I know nobody said this would be easy, but I do think this bit would be straight forward!!

Thanks all, Rich

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk]]>
I'm trying to fit the new Goodridge brake flexis

  IMG_20200511_003454450.jpg (Size: 47.64 KB / Downloads: 58)
I bought at the NEC but the large nuts which supposedly fit into the hexagonal recesses on the frame

  IMG_20200511_003042049.jpg (Size: 31.23 KB / Downloads: 57)
are too big by quite a lot - like 17mm AF instead of 15mm

  IMG_20200511_003139519.jpg (Size: 56.29 KB / Downloads: 57)
or thereabouts. It's the same all round and on the trailing arms too.

How have people managed to get these to fit? And or where did people track down the correct size nuts?

I know nobody said this would be easy, but I do think this bit would be straight forward!!

Thanks all, Rich

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5812 Thu, 10 May 2018 15:52:23 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5812 Hi all - what value do people tend to use for wheel nut torque? 

I've seen it at 80nm and 100nm in the manual and I'm not sure which to use. 

Cheers!]]> Hi all - what value do people tend to use for wheel nut torque? 

I've seen it at 80nm and 100nm in the manual and I'm not sure which to use. 

Cheers!]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5666 Wed, 12 Jul 2017 10:16:16 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5666
Has anyone on here tried the Nankang rear tyres which now seem to be available at all?

Ebay lists a pair for £125 which seems pretty good?

Cheers all, Rich]]>
Has anyone on here tried the Nankang rear tyres which now seem to be available at all?

Ebay lists a pair for £125 which seems pretty good?

Cheers all, Rich]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5536 Wed, 21 Sep 2016 09:25:33 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5536 Looks like someone has finally listened!
Check these out
http://www.northhantstyres.com/main-tyre...R-RWL.html

Nick H]]> Looks like someone has finally listened!
Check these out
http://www.northhantstyres.com/main-tyre...R-RWL.html

Nick H]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5519 Fri, 02 Sep 2016 07:53:08 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5519 http://www.sngbarratt.com/ProductDetails...01a6d478c5 They may have the smaller pistons (or may not) so you would need to check this out and make sure they are the right items, but at £280 for a set of two new calipers they may provide a good option as the supply of our old ones dries-up!

  RearCal.jpg (Size: 340.76 KB / Downloads: 20) ]]> http://www.sngbarratt.com/ProductDetails...01a6d478c5 They may have the smaller pistons (or may not) so you would need to check this out and make sure they are the right items, but at £280 for a set of two new calipers they may provide a good option as the supply of our old ones dries-up!

  RearCal.jpg (Size: 340.76 KB / Downloads: 20) ]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5103 Sat, 27 Jun 2015 14:59:23 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5103 Thought calipers at fault, so got some nice new ones from Bigg Red and Phill has just fitted them along with new pads.
Its made zero difference and car still pulls to the right.
Any ideas?]]> Thought calipers at fault, so got some nice new ones from Bigg Red and Phill has just fitted them along with new pads.
Its made zero difference and car still pulls to the right.
Any ideas?]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4615 Tue, 29 Jul 2014 20:20:57 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4615
it is this one:



now i can see there is room for a spanner on end but mine seem to be hidden so i can not get to it?

any help be great!

thanks

Dan]]>
it is this one:



now i can see there is room for a spanner on end but mine seem to be hidden so i can not get to it?

any help be great!

thanks

Dan]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4509 Mon, 02 Jun 2014 08:23:48 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4509
i understand that the pirelli p6000s are the ones to go for but are also impossible to find.
if i don't go for the pirelllis what should i get?

the car came with firestones on the front,

i notice that Bridgestone do a set
http://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin//rshop....-172724__X

as do Continental

http://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.p...p=R-143008

and Michelin

http://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.p...typ=370106


anyone got any preferences?]]>
i understand that the pirelli p6000s are the ones to go for but are also impossible to find.
if i don't go for the pirelllis what should i get?

the car came with firestones on the front,

i notice that Bridgestone do a set
http://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin//rshop....-172724__X

as do Continental

http://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.p...p=R-143008

and Michelin

http://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.p...typ=370106


anyone got any preferences?]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4405 Mon, 07 Apr 2014 08:38:42 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4405
Ever since I've had my car, I had always had a problem with the speedometer sticking between certain speed's (e.g. between 30 and 40, after which it would shoot up and work fine up until around 55mph and then not go any higher).

In speaking with Josh Bengston late last year, I got onto talking about my speedo issue and he recommended that I find someone who could service the speedometer head as that was most likely where my issue was coming from (the car had already had a new angle drive, lower cable and cap out of necessity).

After some searching I came across a website for a gentleman by the name of Mike Flannery from Gloucestershire who specialises in the service/repair of Smiths magnetic speedometers, as well as antique clocks.
I gave Mike a call and he thought he would be able to help with my issue, so I sent the speedometer head off to him. I got the speedo back after a week and re-installed it into the car - the speedo now works smoothly all the way up to the stop peg.

I was very satisfied with the service Mike provided and would highly recommend him to anyone who is experiencing similar issues with their speedo.

The cost of the service was £90, which is a fraction of the cost of a replacement speedo from Ed. (and also preserves the originality of the car by keeping it's original speedo)

Mikes website address is: http://www.magnetic-speedometer-repair.com/ - drop me a PM should you need any further contact details.]]>
Ever since I've had my car, I had always had a problem with the speedometer sticking between certain speed's (e.g. between 30 and 40, after which it would shoot up and work fine up until around 55mph and then not go any higher).

In speaking with Josh Bengston late last year, I got onto talking about my speedo issue and he recommended that I find someone who could service the speedometer head as that was most likely where my issue was coming from (the car had already had a new angle drive, lower cable and cap out of necessity).

After some searching I came across a website for a gentleman by the name of Mike Flannery from Gloucestershire who specialises in the service/repair of Smiths magnetic speedometers, as well as antique clocks.
I gave Mike a call and he thought he would be able to help with my issue, so I sent the speedometer head off to him. I got the speedo back after a week and re-installed it into the car - the speedo now works smoothly all the way up to the stop peg.

I was very satisfied with the service Mike provided and would highly recommend him to anyone who is experiencing similar issues with their speedo.

The cost of the service was £90, which is a fraction of the cost of a replacement speedo from Ed. (and also preserves the originality of the car by keeping it's original speedo)

Mikes website address is: http://www.magnetic-speedometer-repair.com/ - drop me a PM should you need any further contact details.]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4362 Sat, 08 Mar 2014 20:41:02 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4362 This year with MOT looming I decided to overhaul the handbrake once and for all and came across a worrying engineering issue that may just be why our Delorean handbrakes are so in effective.

Firstly I removed the hand brake and stripped the complete assembly down, opening the casing to reveal the self adjuster. This was thoroughly taken apart cleaned and greased and re assembled. The handbrake cables were disconnected from the brackets and oiled to ensure they weren’t snagging in the sheath’s and replaced.

The return forks (that spring apart to keep the pads clear of the disc when not in use) were checked to ensure they were still strong enough to hold the pads out of contact to stop them dragging on the disc and refitted.

New handbrake pads were purchased and installed. (The old ones hardly looked worn, but I thought as good measure I’d replace them once and for all to get a better handbrake.

Everything was refitted to the car and with the cables still disconnected, the slot head adjusting screw was tightened until the pads dragged and backed off so that the slot in the head of the adjuster was vertical to take the split pin.
The recommendation is 5 thousands of an inch clearance between pad and disc. Not always easy to achieve with the need to get the screw slot vertical for the split pin, but better the pads to be just clear than binding. Split pin back in, the cables were then attached. Adustment MUST be done this way around so that when cables are adjusted they only take up cable slack and not pull on the lever. If this is done the opposite way around the handbrake arm can pull hard up to the top suspension arm and foul it before pulling the pads on.
It is also critical to take the slack up on the cables equally on each side until they just pull the pads and drag on the disc; then back them off ½ turn on the cable adjusting nuts so the disc spins free. The reason that they must be adjusted equally each side is that under the handbrake lever is a vertical bracket with a pivot in the centre. One cable fits the top, the other in the bottom. The lever pulls from the middle so the bracket needs to be vertical as it pulls otherwise it will cant over and one cable can come disconnected. Also if adjusted with the plate vertical it pulls equally on each handbrake rather than on one and when that’s tight starts pulling the other. This is what causes handbrake imbalance (along with miss adjustment of the slot screw adjuster on the calliper arms)
Ok, all still following me?…..

Now this is where it gets interesting.

Having rebuilt and adjusted the handbrake by the book, I drove to the MOT and it FAILED spectacularly!

The efficiency was so poor it hardly registered?
The handbrake was lever was rock solid after 3 – 4 clicks, but the floor rollers at the MOT station simply overwhelmed the handbrake.
How could a total overhaul make it worse than it has ever been?
Maybe the pads needed bedding in a little?
I spoke to the MOT tester and decided to go for a drive around the village (slowly) with the handbrake on 1 click and light on, on the dash and back to the test station.
In the rollers again and guess what, NO better!

I reluctantly took the car home and not one to be beaten, decided once and for all to find out what the inherent problem is with a Delorean handbrake.

I checked the mechanism, cable and lever, all were fine. Not one to be defeated by an engineering issue I took the handbrake apart again.

Then EUREKA I found the problem that I suspect is affecting most of us.

On inspecting my BRAND NEW handbrake pads I was astounded to see one corner crushed and crumbling.


This had been caused by very high pressure focused on a very tiny area. What was going on?

I took my old pads, out of the bin in my garage (the ones that didn’t look too bad) and cleaned them with some acetone on a rag to reveal a similar fault.



The pads weren’t mating to the disc properly.
These old pads were in the car when I shipped it back from California back in 2006, so have never bedded in, despite 8 years of use and 8 yearly adjustments!
But why not?
What’s going on here?

Now in my time restoring pre-war cars, when ever you replaced the brake linings (you had to rivet them on, they never came in a box ready to fit in the old days) they needed cutting before use. This ensured that they were a perfect match for the inside of your drum. Here’s a rotating tool that clamped on the hub with a cutter that you spun by hand and wound in a few thou at a time to cut the lining.



So I took a look at the Delorean Handbrake calliper and made several observations:

The handbrake works in a PINCER operation, with both arms that hold the pads hinging on two pivot pins/bolts. These are at a FIXED distance “A”
By pulling on the handbrake lever the arms close until the pads make contact with the disc at dimension “B”



This is TAPERED and NOT PARALLEL.

New pads are square and parallel, the result of fitting new pads is that ONLY the corners of the pad make contact with the disc.
This is WHY NEW PADS have a POOR EFFICIENCY.

To make matters worse the CORRECT adjustment of the handbrake means that the pads DO NOT drag or meet contact until the handbrake is applied when the car is stationary so would if used correctly NEVER bed in properly!
With such a poor surface area contact its no wonder there is little friction and efficiency.

So to make a Delorean handbrake work properly you cannot drive around with your handbrake on the match the pad angle to the disc (wear them in) without cooking the pads or blueing and warping the discs, not to mention melting the grease out of your wheel bearings.
The only solution is to “fit” the pad in the old fashioned “fitter” type way with a file, & marking blue.
Its amazing how much of an angle is required to get a proper fit and full pad surface contact.





Now since this is NOT something I would recommend the average DIY Delorean owner should do. It’s not easy.
It really is up to our Delorean PARTS SUPPLIERS to re-manufacture pads to the correct angle.
Until then, I have thought how it could be done easier, so here’s a simple solution.
For new or existing pads.

1. Take out the split pin and wind out the slot head adjuster screw about 6 turns (Don’t take it all the way out, you’ll need to dismantle the whole box section lever and self adjuster to get it back in as the internal spring ratchet and pawl will miss-align the threaded hole)
2. Take off the M6 Nylock holding the Handbrake cable into the arm.
3. Remove the lock tabs and take out the two pivot/pin bolts
4. Remove the return fork and put back the pins.
5. The arms holding the pads should now be free to move in and out.
6. Obtain some 40 or 60 grit adhesive sanding discs and cut them to stick on your brake disc.
7. Gently squeezing the arms to contact the pads with the disc, rotate the disc to and fro to sand down the pads to the correct angle.
8. DO NOT sand down further than 75% of the pad face. This means the pad will taper, and at the thickest part of the pad it should still be the same thickness as new/or before in the case of a used pad. In this way you’ll get more life out of the pad.
9. Once done, remove adhesive sanding discs and clean off any glue residue completely.
10. Replace the return forks and new lock tabs.
11. Adjust the slot head screw adjuster until the pads bite the disc and back off ½ turn to get the split pin in.
12. Adjust cable as stated at start of this thread.

Over the life of the pad the pincer movement of the arms should wear the pad evenly increasing the angle until fully worn out. (Providing you’re self adjuster is working)

So did it work?

Well I took the car back to the MOT station today and the efficiency was TWICE what it had EVER been since owning the car!

I can’t believe no one else has ever spotted this fatal engineering flaw?

]]> This year with MOT looming I decided to overhaul the handbrake once and for all and came across a worrying engineering issue that may just be why our Delorean handbrakes are so in effective.

Firstly I removed the hand brake and stripped the complete assembly down, opening the casing to reveal the self adjuster. This was thoroughly taken apart cleaned and greased and re assembled. The handbrake cables were disconnected from the brackets and oiled to ensure they weren’t snagging in the sheath’s and replaced.

The return forks (that spring apart to keep the pads clear of the disc when not in use) were checked to ensure they were still strong enough to hold the pads out of contact to stop them dragging on the disc and refitted.

New handbrake pads were purchased and installed. (The old ones hardly looked worn, but I thought as good measure I’d replace them once and for all to get a better handbrake.

Everything was refitted to the car and with the cables still disconnected, the slot head adjusting screw was tightened until the pads dragged and backed off so that the slot in the head of the adjuster was vertical to take the split pin.
The recommendation is 5 thousands of an inch clearance between pad and disc. Not always easy to achieve with the need to get the screw slot vertical for the split pin, but better the pads to be just clear than binding. Split pin back in, the cables were then attached. Adustment MUST be done this way around so that when cables are adjusted they only take up cable slack and not pull on the lever. If this is done the opposite way around the handbrake arm can pull hard up to the top suspension arm and foul it before pulling the pads on.
It is also critical to take the slack up on the cables equally on each side until they just pull the pads and drag on the disc; then back them off ½ turn on the cable adjusting nuts so the disc spins free. The reason that they must be adjusted equally each side is that under the handbrake lever is a vertical bracket with a pivot in the centre. One cable fits the top, the other in the bottom. The lever pulls from the middle so the bracket needs to be vertical as it pulls otherwise it will cant over and one cable can come disconnected. Also if adjusted with the plate vertical it pulls equally on each handbrake rather than on one and when that’s tight starts pulling the other. This is what causes handbrake imbalance (along with miss adjustment of the slot screw adjuster on the calliper arms)
Ok, all still following me?…..

Now this is where it gets interesting.

Having rebuilt and adjusted the handbrake by the book, I drove to the MOT and it FAILED spectacularly!

The efficiency was so poor it hardly registered?
The handbrake was lever was rock solid after 3 – 4 clicks, but the floor rollers at the MOT station simply overwhelmed the handbrake.
How could a total overhaul make it worse than it has ever been?
Maybe the pads needed bedding in a little?
I spoke to the MOT tester and decided to go for a drive around the village (slowly) with the handbrake on 1 click and light on, on the dash and back to the test station.
In the rollers again and guess what, NO better!

I reluctantly took the car home and not one to be beaten, decided once and for all to find out what the inherent problem is with a Delorean handbrake.

I checked the mechanism, cable and lever, all were fine. Not one to be defeated by an engineering issue I took the handbrake apart again.

Then EUREKA I found the problem that I suspect is affecting most of us.

On inspecting my BRAND NEW handbrake pads I was astounded to see one corner crushed and crumbling.


This had been caused by very high pressure focused on a very tiny area. What was going on?

I took my old pads, out of the bin in my garage (the ones that didn’t look too bad) and cleaned them with some acetone on a rag to reveal a similar fault.



The pads weren’t mating to the disc properly.
These old pads were in the car when I shipped it back from California back in 2006, so have never bedded in, despite 8 years of use and 8 yearly adjustments!
But why not?
What’s going on here?

Now in my time restoring pre-war cars, when ever you replaced the brake linings (you had to rivet them on, they never came in a box ready to fit in the old days) they needed cutting before use. This ensured that they were a perfect match for the inside of your drum. Here’s a rotating tool that clamped on the hub with a cutter that you spun by hand and wound in a few thou at a time to cut the lining.



So I took a look at the Delorean Handbrake calliper and made several observations:

The handbrake works in a PINCER operation, with both arms that hold the pads hinging on two pivot pins/bolts. These are at a FIXED distance “A”
By pulling on the handbrake lever the arms close until the pads make contact with the disc at dimension “B”



This is TAPERED and NOT PARALLEL.

New pads are square and parallel, the result of fitting new pads is that ONLY the corners of the pad make contact with the disc.
This is WHY NEW PADS have a POOR EFFICIENCY.

To make matters worse the CORRECT adjustment of the handbrake means that the pads DO NOT drag or meet contact until the handbrake is applied when the car is stationary so would if used correctly NEVER bed in properly!
With such a poor surface area contact its no wonder there is little friction and efficiency.

So to make a Delorean handbrake work properly you cannot drive around with your handbrake on the match the pad angle to the disc (wear them in) without cooking the pads or blueing and warping the discs, not to mention melting the grease out of your wheel bearings.
The only solution is to “fit” the pad in the old fashioned “fitter” type way with a file, & marking blue.
Its amazing how much of an angle is required to get a proper fit and full pad surface contact.





Now since this is NOT something I would recommend the average DIY Delorean owner should do. It’s not easy.
It really is up to our Delorean PARTS SUPPLIERS to re-manufacture pads to the correct angle.
Until then, I have thought how it could be done easier, so here’s a simple solution.
For new or existing pads.

1. Take out the split pin and wind out the slot head adjuster screw about 6 turns (Don’t take it all the way out, you’ll need to dismantle the whole box section lever and self adjuster to get it back in as the internal spring ratchet and pawl will miss-align the threaded hole)
2. Take off the M6 Nylock holding the Handbrake cable into the arm.
3. Remove the lock tabs and take out the two pivot/pin bolts
4. Remove the return fork and put back the pins.
5. The arms holding the pads should now be free to move in and out.
6. Obtain some 40 or 60 grit adhesive sanding discs and cut them to stick on your brake disc.
7. Gently squeezing the arms to contact the pads with the disc, rotate the disc to and fro to sand down the pads to the correct angle.
8. DO NOT sand down further than 75% of the pad face. This means the pad will taper, and at the thickest part of the pad it should still be the same thickness as new/or before in the case of a used pad. In this way you’ll get more life out of the pad.
9. Once done, remove adhesive sanding discs and clean off any glue residue completely.
10. Replace the return forks and new lock tabs.
11. Adjust the slot head screw adjuster until the pads bite the disc and back off ½ turn to get the split pin in.
12. Adjust cable as stated at start of this thread.

Over the life of the pad the pincer movement of the arms should wear the pad evenly increasing the angle until fully worn out. (Providing you’re self adjuster is working)

So did it work?

Well I took the car back to the MOT station today and the efficiency was TWICE what it had EVER been since owning the car!

I can’t believe no one else has ever spotted this fatal engineering flaw?

]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4298 Wed, 15 Jan 2014 12:58:41 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4298
Unfortunately since my move to Scotland I've not got access to all the tools I had previously, so I'm wondering if someone can advise on what size socket I need to remove the wheel nuts? I've searched online but can't find a clear answer.]]>
Unfortunately since my move to Scotland I've not got access to all the tools I had previously, so I'm wondering if someone can advise on what size socket I need to remove the wheel nuts? I've searched online but can't find a clear answer.]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4232 Wed, 13 Nov 2013 20:25:42 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4232 Information supplied from Alexakos from DMCTalk: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?8576- ... post125729 My thanks to him.
Looking over in the web I found WARD engineering.
He actually makes Jaguar braking components and it so happens the are similar o the Deloreans made by GIRLING.
Sent the over to WARD in the UK and expected a mail saying "Sorry, these are scrap".
To my surprise, a couple days later he comes back with the bill. 34GBP each plus shipping.
When I opened he box, my jaw dropped....
[ATTACHMENT NOT FOUND]
http://www.ward-engineering.co.uk/

Chris]]> Information supplied from Alexakos from DMCTalk: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?8576- ... post125729 My thanks to him.
Looking over in the web I found WARD engineering.
He actually makes Jaguar braking components and it so happens the are similar o the Deloreans made by GIRLING.
Sent the over to WARD in the UK and expected a mail saying "Sorry, these are scrap".
To my surprise, a couple days later he comes back with the bill. 34GBP each plus shipping.
When I opened he box, my jaw dropped....
[ATTACHMENT NOT FOUND]
http://www.ward-engineering.co.uk/

Chris]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4148 Wed, 11 Sep 2013 10:57:16 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4148
I have lots of part numbers, but there seems to be a confusion of the specified inner diameter preference for the DeLorean for the available manufacturer's versions.

As an example, here are two well known manufacturer's part descriptions. Obviously, sense would point you to buying SKF over Quinton Hazell, but with the Quiton Hazell is advertised as being specifically for the DeLorean. So with the difference between the two parts ID's...which would people vouch for going for?

Quinton Hazell "QWB243" Dimensions: OD 60 mm; ID 29.8 mm; Width 37mm

SKF "VKBA 559" Dimensions: OD 60 mm; ID 30 mm; Width 37 mm]]>
I have lots of part numbers, but there seems to be a confusion of the specified inner diameter preference for the DeLorean for the available manufacturer's versions.

As an example, here are two well known manufacturer's part descriptions. Obviously, sense would point you to buying SKF over Quinton Hazell, but with the Quiton Hazell is advertised as being specifically for the DeLorean. So with the difference between the two parts ID's...which would people vouch for going for?

Quinton Hazell "QWB243" Dimensions: OD 60 mm; ID 29.8 mm; Width 37mm

SKF "VKBA 559" Dimensions: OD 60 mm; ID 30 mm; Width 37 mm]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4111 Wed, 14 Aug 2013 07:05:49 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4111
its ended up dented and mis-shapen (long story, but the cars going up to Eds place in holland in a couple of weeks to get sorted)

the issue is that if i turn full lock to the left the dents are scraping on the brake disc. (its ok as long as you only make shallow turns).

im just wondering if removing it until i get it to Eds is a viable option? or is this a complete no no?

thanks

Simon.]]>
its ended up dented and mis-shapen (long story, but the cars going up to Eds place in holland in a couple of weeks to get sorted)

the issue is that if i turn full lock to the left the dents are scraping on the brake disc. (its ok as long as you only make shallow turns).

im just wondering if removing it until i get it to Eds is a viable option? or is this a complete no no?

thanks

Simon.]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3985 Fri, 07 Jun 2013 14:54:18 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3985
Thanks,

James]]>
Thanks,

James]]>