http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/ Tue, 21 Apr 2026 12:58:42 +0000 MyBB http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6393 Sun, 02 Jul 2023 13:58:58 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6393
I gather DeLoreans were factory fitted with parasitic draw, but how much is normal?]]>
I gather DeLoreans were factory fitted with parasitic draw, but how much is normal?]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6391 Mon, 19 Jun 2023 21:24:05 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6391
Also, any ideas what the issue could be? Unless the problem just reveals itself to me, I'm not really sure what my plan is once I get the radio out.]]>
Also, any ideas what the issue could be? Unless the problem just reveals itself to me, I'm not really sure what my plan is once I get the radio out.]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6359 Sat, 04 Feb 2023 20:37:19 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6359
In all my years around DeLoreans, I've not come across this one.
So, first question is; anyone know any cross references or how the inner workings of the speedo work?

Here's the issue. My speedo needle doth not move. The mileage increases (both barrels) so before anyone mentions it, it's not angle drive or cable related . To add, I have the speedo out and have spun it up with a drill and, nada.

The speedo itself is a metal cup/magnet affair. The cup is attached (with spring) to the needle. If I spin the cup, the needle moves.
The cable-end has the magnet on it. No matter how I spin that, it doesn't drag the cup around (but the mileage increases so I know it's doing something right).

The question is, before I start dismantling it and realise I can't buy a new one (really), is it likely I just need to remagnetise the magnet? That is, if I can. Otherwise, is there something else that should be in this that might be missing? (it really is just a cup and a metal rectangle that spins within it).

Cheers!]]>
In all my years around DeLoreans, I've not come across this one.
So, first question is; anyone know any cross references or how the inner workings of the speedo work?

Here's the issue. My speedo needle doth not move. The mileage increases (both barrels) so before anyone mentions it, it's not angle drive or cable related . To add, I have the speedo out and have spun it up with a drill and, nada.

The speedo itself is a metal cup/magnet affair. The cup is attached (with spring) to the needle. If I spin the cup, the needle moves.
The cable-end has the magnet on it. No matter how I spin that, it doesn't drag the cup around (but the mileage increases so I know it's doing something right).

The question is, before I start dismantling it and realise I can't buy a new one (really), is it likely I just need to remagnetise the magnet? That is, if I can. Otherwise, is there something else that should be in this that might be missing? (it really is just a cup and a metal rectangle that spins within it).

Cheers!]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6356 Wed, 25 Jan 2023 07:26:38 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6356
I’m thinking about changing out my battery cables.  That is, the chunky cables which go between the battery terminals and elsewhere.  The purpose behind this is to give me the easier option of a posted battery rather than the original terminal style.  Side terminal batteries are thin on the ground and getting fewer options every time I need to consider a new battery.

I’m interested in keeping my original cables intact, so therefore would like to fully replace what’s there with new, hopefully more flexible made up cables.

So, with everything explained and hopefully justified, I’m after someone telling me the dimensions of the cables I need.  Cross sectional area (mm2) or at least diameter or even better gauge or amp capability.  And of course, length so I have enough in each length to get from the battery to the other end with room to spare for pulling the battery in and out of its cubby hole.

I’m hoping someone can come through for me here.  Social media just seems to sport on additional questions etc from others rather than a simple straight answer to a simple straight question.  I don’t mind the other comments etc from others if they answer the question first.  But to only bring those to the table with no actual answer to the original question.  Well I find this frustrating.

Thanks in advance.  I hope.]]>
I’m thinking about changing out my battery cables.  That is, the chunky cables which go between the battery terminals and elsewhere.  The purpose behind this is to give me the easier option of a posted battery rather than the original terminal style.  Side terminal batteries are thin on the ground and getting fewer options every time I need to consider a new battery.

I’m interested in keeping my original cables intact, so therefore would like to fully replace what’s there with new, hopefully more flexible made up cables.

So, with everything explained and hopefully justified, I’m after someone telling me the dimensions of the cables I need.  Cross sectional area (mm2) or at least diameter or even better gauge or amp capability.  And of course, length so I have enough in each length to get from the battery to the other end with room to spare for pulling the battery in and out of its cubby hole.

I’m hoping someone can come through for me here.  Social media just seems to sport on additional questions etc from others rather than a simple straight answer to a simple straight question.  I don’t mind the other comments etc from others if they answer the question first.  But to only bring those to the table with no actual answer to the original question.  Well I find this frustrating.

Thanks in advance.  I hope.]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6354 Fri, 13 Jan 2023 12:31:33 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6354 Due to several Bad contact on my tail light, and the expensive Price of the New tail light board, I have décide to make a personal tail light board for a minimum cost. 
That's working perfectly.
If you are interrested, tell me

  IMG20220509212916.jpg (Size: 4.2 MB / Downloads: 46)

  IMG20220509212943.jpg (Size: 3.7 MB / Downloads: 46)

  IMG20220509212956.jpg (Size: 3.89 MB / Downloads: 46)

  IMG20220509213021.jpg (Size: 3.55 MB / Downloads: 46) ]]> Due to several Bad contact on my tail light, and the expensive Price of the New tail light board, I have décide to make a personal tail light board for a minimum cost. 
That's working perfectly.
If you are interrested, tell me

  IMG20220509212916.jpg (Size: 4.2 MB / Downloads: 46)

  IMG20220509212943.jpg (Size: 3.7 MB / Downloads: 46)

  IMG20220509212956.jpg (Size: 3.89 MB / Downloads: 46)

  IMG20220509213021.jpg (Size: 3.55 MB / Downloads: 46) ]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6341 Mon, 31 Oct 2022 17:02:21 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6341 Gonna try and be more active this time around!

The car smells of old fuel a bit, especially the rear, just in front of the charcoal cannister (i was checking for a loose hose) i saw a part ive never noticed before. It has 1, possibly 2 fuel hoses going to it. You can only see it with the charcoal can removed, looking into the pontoon. 


What is it ?


Hopefully someone can also help with this, i have a digital door module and remote kit semi fitted, but have no instructions. The digi controller is from delorean.com and has “delorean lock module rev.3.5” on the circuit board, and 2 red 2 green led’s. On the case is “3651-16”. 

Theres also a remote controller board and some relays. The remote has  4 buttons, lock, unlock, trunk, and a yellow lights button. 

I cant find a pdf / anything about how to wire it up etc. its been sat in storage for a while. 
Help please!

Im loving that now the cars 40, no tax no mot, i just insured it very cheap with the post office lol.]]> Gonna try and be more active this time around!

The car smells of old fuel a bit, especially the rear, just in front of the charcoal cannister (i was checking for a loose hose) i saw a part ive never noticed before. It has 1, possibly 2 fuel hoses going to it. You can only see it with the charcoal can removed, looking into the pontoon. 


What is it ?


Hopefully someone can also help with this, i have a digital door module and remote kit semi fitted, but have no instructions. The digi controller is from delorean.com and has “delorean lock module rev.3.5” on the circuit board, and 2 red 2 green led’s. On the case is “3651-16”. 

Theres also a remote controller board and some relays. The remote has  4 buttons, lock, unlock, trunk, and a yellow lights button. 

I cant find a pdf / anything about how to wire it up etc. its been sat in storage for a while. 
Help please!

Im loving that now the cars 40, no tax no mot, i just insured it very cheap with the post office lol.]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6318 Wed, 20 Jul 2022 22:21:45 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6318 I've finally found the time to put Frenchy back on the road after a 4 yr hibernation in a carcoon.

She started fine and ticked over lovely about two months ago, but recently I needed to replace the fuel pump that stopped turning.
Heard it priming, but then the engine would only run for about 10 seconds.
Occasionally turning key to start caused a "click" (some relay?) and complete power failure, which recovered after some deep breathing downtime!

Frenchy hasn't moved yet, and more recently, even after 2 new accessory and an RPM/fuel relays, the instrument cluster now has no power, and the fuel pump now can't be heard to
prime, so the engine just happily cranks away with no firing!

No fuses blown, incl no.10! Weird...

Any troubleshooting thoughts to point me in the right direction would be sooo helpful please?

(my intention is just to able to drive her out of her carcoon, flatbed her to Chris in Canvey Island for a well deserved thorough going over after her rest!)

Thanks all,
Mat
#3866]]> I've finally found the time to put Frenchy back on the road after a 4 yr hibernation in a carcoon.

She started fine and ticked over lovely about two months ago, but recently I needed to replace the fuel pump that stopped turning.
Heard it priming, but then the engine would only run for about 10 seconds.
Occasionally turning key to start caused a "click" (some relay?) and complete power failure, which recovered after some deep breathing downtime!

Frenchy hasn't moved yet, and more recently, even after 2 new accessory and an RPM/fuel relays, the instrument cluster now has no power, and the fuel pump now can't be heard to
prime, so the engine just happily cranks away with no firing!

No fuses blown, incl no.10! Weird...

Any troubleshooting thoughts to point me in the right direction would be sooo helpful please?

(my intention is just to able to drive her out of her carcoon, flatbed her to Chris in Canvey Island for a well deserved thorough going over after her rest!)

Thanks all,
Mat
#3866]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6302 Tue, 03 May 2022 15:47:44 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6302
Was under the dash this weekend changing my indicator relay for the LED-friendly version, when I noticed the following rather 'interesting' thing; Picture attached!

To the left of my lambda unit is what I am certain is an inertia switch (black box, small red button on top).  Handy little device, useful for safety in a crash..  
Much less usefully, some bugger has clearly decided that safety be damned, they're going to bypass the bloody thing!  No wires going into it whatsoever.

So that's interesting...!

Well, clearly I'll be very keen to plumb that back in (or replacing it and then doing so if it turns out it's busted and that's why it was bypassed [tho that still doesn't excuse such chicanery!]), so the question then is: where the hell are the wires that are supposed to plug into it?

Now, also in this photo, interestingly, one can see a 'jumper wire' which has been plugged into a small light grey connector which sits a few inches above the inertia switch.  The jumper wire appears to be directly connecting a purple (maybe purple/black?) wire, from the middle of the block, to a black wire.  There's also a third wire in the grey connector block, which appears to be maybe brown/white (?) which doesn't currently appear to connect to anything.  Although I note that the intertia switch appears to have three spade connectors in the bottom of it.  

In 'Private Eye' lingo.. Could these facts be in any way related?

I would of course be very grateful if any kind and well-informed soul can shed any useful light and/or give any useful tips on this mystery!!  

Hope everyone had a good Bank Holiday.  In spite of the dangers, I took Bess to a local village car show, where she was very well received!

Cheers all.

  Underdash Pic - Inertia Switch.jpg (Size: 634.23 KB / Downloads: 88) ]]>
Was under the dash this weekend changing my indicator relay for the LED-friendly version, when I noticed the following rather 'interesting' thing; Picture attached!

To the left of my lambda unit is what I am certain is an inertia switch (black box, small red button on top).  Handy little device, useful for safety in a crash..  
Much less usefully, some bugger has clearly decided that safety be damned, they're going to bypass the bloody thing!  No wires going into it whatsoever.

So that's interesting...!

Well, clearly I'll be very keen to plumb that back in (or replacing it and then doing so if it turns out it's busted and that's why it was bypassed [tho that still doesn't excuse such chicanery!]), so the question then is: where the hell are the wires that are supposed to plug into it?

Now, also in this photo, interestingly, one can see a 'jumper wire' which has been plugged into a small light grey connector which sits a few inches above the inertia switch.  The jumper wire appears to be directly connecting a purple (maybe purple/black?) wire, from the middle of the block, to a black wire.  There's also a third wire in the grey connector block, which appears to be maybe brown/white (?) which doesn't currently appear to connect to anything.  Although I note that the intertia switch appears to have three spade connectors in the bottom of it.  

In 'Private Eye' lingo.. Could these facts be in any way related?

I would of course be very grateful if any kind and well-informed soul can shed any useful light and/or give any useful tips on this mystery!!  

Hope everyone had a good Bank Holiday.  In spite of the dangers, I took Bess to a local village car show, where she was very well received!

Cheers all.

  Underdash Pic - Inertia Switch.jpg (Size: 634.23 KB / Downloads: 88) ]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6267 Tue, 11 Jan 2022 23:18:03 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6267
I turn the key, dash lights come on, "click" but no crank. Sometimes the fuel pump doesn't prime either. It starts after a few attempts, cycling on and off. Sometimes it will suddenly start if I just hold the key in the crank position and wait for several seconds. Not sure if it's a red herring, but the tachometer sometimes gives false readings for a while after start up. Only seems to happen following the no-crank situation. 


The battery is in a good state of charge and I gave the terminals a once over with wire wool, but no improvement. At this point my thinking is a switch/relay of some description, bad ground, or the starter itself (in that order). I'm still not very familiar with DeLoreans though, so inputs gratefully received.]]>
I turn the key, dash lights come on, "click" but no crank. Sometimes the fuel pump doesn't prime either. It starts after a few attempts, cycling on and off. Sometimes it will suddenly start if I just hold the key in the crank position and wait for several seconds. Not sure if it's a red herring, but the tachometer sometimes gives false readings for a while after start up. Only seems to happen following the no-crank situation. 


The battery is in a good state of charge and I gave the terminals a once over with wire wool, but no improvement. At this point my thinking is a switch/relay of some description, bad ground, or the starter itself (in that order). I'm still not very familiar with DeLoreans though, so inputs gratefully received.]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6235 Sun, 10 Oct 2021 19:05:26 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6235
Currently trying to diagnose a faulty temp guage. Since I have had the car the temperature guage has been pointing straight up. I have read some threads on here talking about various temp guage issues to see if anyone else has had the same issues. Mine doesn’t seem to match what I have have read about. 

The guage points straight up and doesn’t move when the ignition is on or off. I read a thread about simply flicking the needle back to ‘reset’ it’s orientation. However, with the sender connected the needle  just rises slowly to 12 o clock and stays there. With the sender disconnected (bugger to get to) the needle (after being pushed back to 100) doesn’t rise. It is therefore the signal from the sender causing it to rise to 12 o clock. I have checked continuity from the sender wire and all ok. I have then jumped the sender wire (to the ground on the block) while not connected to the sender and the needle again rises to 12 o clock and doesn’t return. I have read on other posts that the needle should jump to 12 then return to its rest position when not provided with power. 

My thoughts are that the sender might be ok but I might replace for the sake of 17 quid from DGo. I am more worried about the guage although I have read a comforting statement on the forum that someone was yet to see a faulty guage. 

Can the guage ‘stick’ to stop it returning to its normal position? Is this something that can be free’d or lubricated from inside the binnacle?  I’m yet to go in there but is probably a job that needs to be tackled at some point! 

Thanks in advance for any suggestions or valuable insight. 

Jon.]]>
Currently trying to diagnose a faulty temp guage. Since I have had the car the temperature guage has been pointing straight up. I have read some threads on here talking about various temp guage issues to see if anyone else has had the same issues. Mine doesn’t seem to match what I have have read about. 

The guage points straight up and doesn’t move when the ignition is on or off. I read a thread about simply flicking the needle back to ‘reset’ it’s orientation. However, with the sender connected the needle  just rises slowly to 12 o clock and stays there. With the sender disconnected (bugger to get to) the needle (after being pushed back to 100) doesn’t rise. It is therefore the signal from the sender causing it to rise to 12 o clock. I have checked continuity from the sender wire and all ok. I have then jumped the sender wire (to the ground on the block) while not connected to the sender and the needle again rises to 12 o clock and doesn’t return. I have read on other posts that the needle should jump to 12 then return to its rest position when not provided with power. 

My thoughts are that the sender might be ok but I might replace for the sake of 17 quid from DGo. I am more worried about the guage although I have read a comforting statement on the forum that someone was yet to see a faulty guage. 

Can the guage ‘stick’ to stop it returning to its normal position? Is this something that can be free’d or lubricated from inside the binnacle?  I’m yet to go in there but is probably a job that needs to be tackled at some point! 

Thanks in advance for any suggestions or valuable insight. 

Jon.]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6232 Wed, 06 Oct 2021 20:40:03 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6232 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6224 Fri, 17 Sep 2021 16:21:34 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6224
Does anyone know what it is/does? It's at the rear of the engine. Appears to be on (or next to) the distributor. 


  IMG_0481.JPG (Size: 422.13 KB / Downloads: 77) ]]>
Does anyone know what it is/does? It's at the rear of the engine. Appears to be on (or next to) the distributor. 


  IMG_0481.JPG (Size: 422.13 KB / Downloads: 77) ]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6013 Wed, 01 Jan 2020 21:09:35 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6013
does anyone have any cross references for relays and circuit breakers?. i need to replace all of mine, and from memory the relays were cheap standard things.

not sure about the circuit breakers.

i already have an RPM relay.

i need to ave a few £££ to spend on new fuel lines.

thank you]]>
does anyone have any cross references for relays and circuit breakers?. i need to replace all of mine, and from memory the relays were cheap standard things.

not sure about the circuit breakers.

i already have an RPM relay.

i need to ave a few £££ to spend on new fuel lines.

thank you]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5976 Wed, 12 Jun 2019 11:24:25 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5976
I know this is a big ask but can anyone get a picture of the bracket that holds the wiper control module and buzzer in its location under the dash. I have got under there while fitting a steering column bush and this bracket is just hanging under the dash and not fixed to anything. I have tried stuffing it into various locations but none look right.

Any help is very much appreciated.]]>
I know this is a big ask but can anyone get a picture of the bracket that holds the wiper control module and buzzer in its location under the dash. I have got under there while fitting a steering column bush and this bracket is just hanging under the dash and not fixed to anything. I have tried stuffing it into various locations but none look right.

Any help is very much appreciated.]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5958 Tue, 26 Mar 2019 17:19:09 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5958

When I indicate right, the front and rear indicators outside work as normal.
But the cluster doesn’t show that it’s indicating right.
Left works perfectly fine.
Hazards only illuminate the left on the cluster, but outside all is fine.

Additionally, I can hear the indicator clicking when indicating.

This happened to me a few weeks back, and then it started working again.
And then today on the way home it stopped again.

Loose connection on the cluster perhaps?
The low beam indicator is quite dim.... so perhaps a contact issue perhaps.
And the connection on the circuit board is not working for the temp gauge as I had to run a new wire to get that working last year.

So perhaps I need a new circuit board?

If so, is that easy to do?? I don’t fancy getting the binnacle out
(Which I know I’d need to do....)]]>

When I indicate right, the front and rear indicators outside work as normal.
But the cluster doesn’t show that it’s indicating right.
Left works perfectly fine.
Hazards only illuminate the left on the cluster, but outside all is fine.

Additionally, I can hear the indicator clicking when indicating.

This happened to me a few weeks back, and then it started working again.
And then today on the way home it stopped again.

Loose connection on the cluster perhaps?
The low beam indicator is quite dim.... so perhaps a contact issue perhaps.
And the connection on the circuit board is not working for the temp gauge as I had to run a new wire to get that working last year.

So perhaps I need a new circuit board?

If so, is that easy to do?? I don’t fancy getting the binnacle out
(Which I know I’d need to do....)]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5865 Wed, 22 Aug 2018 12:59:08 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5865
Took the Delorean out for a nice drive today, its been a VERY long time since I did that. Anyway, the speedo seems to have developed an interesting quirk.
Check out the video







Anyone got any thoughts on how I go about diagnosing and fixing this one?

Cheers

Stu]]>
Took the Delorean out for a nice drive today, its been a VERY long time since I did that. Anyway, the speedo seems to have developed an interesting quirk.
Check out the video







Anyone got any thoughts on how I go about diagnosing and fixing this one?

Cheers

Stu]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5863 Sat, 18 Aug 2018 13:04:44 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5863 It seems to be one thing after another with this car & I haven't even driven it yet.  ]]> It seems to be one thing after another with this car & I haven't even driven it yet.  ]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5845 Mon, 02 Jul 2018 12:52:56 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5845
The rev counter has never worked since I've owned the car and I think it's about time I figure it out.

It's currently sat at 5000rpm. That's with the car running and also when the car is off and battery disconnected.

I do remember that at some points it will shift to another value and sit there instead (e.g. 3k). It's never gone down to 0.

So what should I check and in what order?

I reckon it's the tachometer itself. Either have to get it repaired or buy a replacement]]>
The rev counter has never worked since I've owned the car and I think it's about time I figure it out.

It's currently sat at 5000rpm. That's with the car running and also when the car is off and battery disconnected.

I do remember that at some points it will shift to another value and sit there instead (e.g. 3k). It's never gone down to 0.

So what should I check and in what order?

I reckon it's the tachometer itself. Either have to get it repaired or buy a replacement]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5843 Sat, 30 Jun 2018 19:17:49 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5843 Thought I’d start a new thread on this, just in case it’s of help to anyone in the future....

In my case, the temp gauge always stayed pinned at 100f. 
The usual grounding check did nothing to the gauge when ignition was on, despite installing a new temp sender, and cleaning all connections on the bulk head.
(If you’re reading this for help, do the above first)

So, next I checked continuity between the connector on the temp sender and the connector on the bulk head, and this was fine.
(It’s the white connector nearest to the firewall under the yellow one, 3rd pin opening up on the right of the connector - or simply trace the wire colour to the pin)

Next, I checked continuity from the engine bay all the way to the binnacle. I didn’t want to remove the binnacle yet - so I performed some “on the back tests” in the footwell, seeing as all 3 connection bolts for the gauge are accessible when looking up.
With the ignition on, I checked for power on the bottom bolt (ground) and the right middle bolt (live).
Thankfully for me, there was 12v. 

This means there’s a continuity issue between the bulkhead and the gauge.

So next I ran a long cable from the engine bay connector into the car and used that to check continuity with my multimeter to the back of the gauge. 
(The sender signal bolt is the left middle bolt)
I had ZERO continuity on the bolt itself, BUT I did have good continuity on the circuit board under the nut that connects the circuit to the bolt.....

AH HA!!!!! Thankfully continuity is intact from the engine bay, from the bulk head, to the binnacle connector and the circuit board.

Now - this is were the solution is to remove the binnacle and replace the nut with a nice brass one to get a proper connection.
Whilst this IS what I will be doing - I want to get out and enjoy the car and do this over the winter.....

So I cheated..... I ran a brand new wire from the back of the gauge, through the bulk head and on to the temp sender......
Hey presto, TEMPERATURE GAUGE IS WORKING!!!!!

Wooo hoooooo!!!!]]> Thought I’d start a new thread on this, just in case it’s of help to anyone in the future....

In my case, the temp gauge always stayed pinned at 100f. 
The usual grounding check did nothing to the gauge when ignition was on, despite installing a new temp sender, and cleaning all connections on the bulk head.
(If you’re reading this for help, do the above first)

So, next I checked continuity between the connector on the temp sender and the connector on the bulk head, and this was fine.
(It’s the white connector nearest to the firewall under the yellow one, 3rd pin opening up on the right of the connector - or simply trace the wire colour to the pin)

Next, I checked continuity from the engine bay all the way to the binnacle. I didn’t want to remove the binnacle yet - so I performed some “on the back tests” in the footwell, seeing as all 3 connection bolts for the gauge are accessible when looking up.
With the ignition on, I checked for power on the bottom bolt (ground) and the right middle bolt (live).
Thankfully for me, there was 12v. 

This means there’s a continuity issue between the bulkhead and the gauge.

So next I ran a long cable from the engine bay connector into the car and used that to check continuity with my multimeter to the back of the gauge. 
(The sender signal bolt is the left middle bolt)
I had ZERO continuity on the bolt itself, BUT I did have good continuity on the circuit board under the nut that connects the circuit to the bolt.....

AH HA!!!!! Thankfully continuity is intact from the engine bay, from the bulk head, to the binnacle connector and the circuit board.

Now - this is were the solution is to remove the binnacle and replace the nut with a nice brass one to get a proper connection.
Whilst this IS what I will be doing - I want to get out and enjoy the car and do this over the winter.....

So I cheated..... I ran a brand new wire from the back of the gauge, through the bulk head and on to the temp sender......
Hey presto, TEMPERATURE GAUGE IS WORKING!!!!!

Wooo hoooooo!!!!]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5825 Tue, 22 May 2018 17:07:25 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5825      Does anybody have the Bosch part number or cross ref. for the Distributor vacuum advance unit/diaphragm. DMC part 102684.
Pretty sure mine is toast.

Many thanks
Nick H]]>      Does anybody have the Bosch part number or cross ref. for the Distributor vacuum advance unit/diaphragm. DMC part 102684.
Pretty sure mine is toast.

Many thanks
Nick H]]>