http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/ Wed, 29 Apr 2026 11:41:05 +0000 MyBB http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6436 Wed, 07 Feb 2024 13:13:13 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6436
Thanks
Chris. VIN 2436]]>
Thanks
Chris. VIN 2436]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6406 Wed, 23 Aug 2023 19:56:52 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6406

  IMG_1273.JPG (Size: 204.97 KB / Downloads: 50)

Do I just pull, twist, and grunt at it? Or is there more to it? I'm trying to not break something as the Morgan factory tour is only a couple of weeks away.]]>

  IMG_1273.JPG (Size: 204.97 KB / Downloads: 50)

Do I just pull, twist, and grunt at it? Or is there more to it? I'm trying to not break something as the Morgan factory tour is only a couple of weeks away.]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6292 Sat, 02 Apr 2022 11:14:08 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6292
Hoping for some advice on Dwell testing. I connected up my meter and set it to 4cyl as all the forums seem to instruct. Started the engine and it immediately said 43, so i left it for the engine to get up to temp. As it got a bit warmer it started cycling and was going from 43 down to just below 20 (lowest i saw was 16). 
After a bit longer it got up to temp and fans kicked in, it seemed to settle and was consistently reading in the 40s which i think is good right?
Left it running a bit longer and it started cycling again. Again ranging from 40s down to high teens.

Can someone tell me if i did this right and should it be behaving in the way? I expected it to swing but not as low as it did.

thanks
Darren]]>
Hoping for some advice on Dwell testing. I connected up my meter and set it to 4cyl as all the forums seem to instruct. Started the engine and it immediately said 43, so i left it for the engine to get up to temp. As it got a bit warmer it started cycling and was going from 43 down to just below 20 (lowest i saw was 16). 
After a bit longer it got up to temp and fans kicked in, it seemed to settle and was consistently reading in the 40s which i think is good right?
Left it running a bit longer and it started cycling again. Again ranging from 40s down to high teens.

Can someone tell me if i did this right and should it be behaving in the way? I expected it to swing but not as low as it did.

thanks
Darren]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6242 Mon, 08 Nov 2021 09:55:52 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6242

Recently noted a bit of an oddity with my car on starting.

Having had old cars before, I have a habit of turning key from off to first position then second position slowly, then waiting in second position to hear fuel pump going - leaving for a bit to make sure system pressurised and fuel is in all lines, before finally turning to 'start'.  Hopefully avoiding unnecessary fuel-less cranking..

Currently, however, in my D;
Turn key through first position to second position, and there's an odd buzzing noise from somewhere behind me on the LHS.
And the fuel pump appears not to be going.
Turn key back to 'off', then turn back through first to second position.  No problem, pump is going as normal.  Continue turning key to 'start', no worries, off she goes.

However, even after a bit of running, if I then turn her off (at a petrol station, say) - the whole malarkey happens again!

So, I call it a binary pump issue, as every time I get in to start her up, there's a first turn of the key to position 2 with no fuel pump (0) and an odd buzzing noise, then on the second turn of the key to position 2, fuel pump winds up perfectly normally (1) 'cos I can hear it, without the buzzing noise.

Any thoughts?

Yours confusedly, 
Ivan
]]>

Recently noted a bit of an oddity with my car on starting.

Having had old cars before, I have a habit of turning key from off to first position then second position slowly, then waiting in second position to hear fuel pump going - leaving for a bit to make sure system pressurised and fuel is in all lines, before finally turning to 'start'.  Hopefully avoiding unnecessary fuel-less cranking..

Currently, however, in my D;
Turn key through first position to second position, and there's an odd buzzing noise from somewhere behind me on the LHS.
And the fuel pump appears not to be going.
Turn key back to 'off', then turn back through first to second position.  No problem, pump is going as normal.  Continue turning key to 'start', no worries, off she goes.

However, even after a bit of running, if I then turn her off (at a petrol station, say) - the whole malarkey happens again!

So, I call it a binary pump issue, as every time I get in to start her up, there's a first turn of the key to position 2 with no fuel pump (0) and an odd buzzing noise, then on the second turn of the key to position 2, fuel pump winds up perfectly normally (1) 'cos I can hear it, without the buzzing noise.

Any thoughts?

Yours confusedly, 
Ivan
]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6194 Sun, 18 Jul 2021 07:32:17 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6194
I've only just had the MOT done and there were no obvious fuel leaks, as you would think this would have been picked up during the MOT.

It's not constant, so detecting could be difficult, any obvious checks or common issues..??

thanks as always]]>
I've only just had the MOT done and there were no obvious fuel leaks, as you would think this would have been picked up during the MOT.

It's not constant, so detecting could be difficult, any obvious checks or common issues..??

thanks as always]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6050 Thu, 30 Apr 2020 19:56:10 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6050 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0438100109-De...SwuhZehB9V
or https://k-jet.biz/ same company but not an eBay link, 'MAY' be more helpful to owners on the other side of the world but certainly another option for K-Jet users. About half the price of the UK's specialist's https://www.kmipetrolinjection.co.uk/
I have no info as to how good (or bad) these are but the eBay feedback is very good.
Chris]]> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0438100109-De...SwuhZehB9V
or https://k-jet.biz/ same company but not an eBay link, 'MAY' be more helpful to owners on the other side of the world but certainly another option for K-Jet users. About half the price of the UK's specialist's https://www.kmipetrolinjection.co.uk/
I have no info as to how good (or bad) these are but the eBay feedback is very good.
Chris]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6044 Mon, 30 Mar 2020 00:52:57 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6044
They have installed a new fuel pump with all the parts. Also did a major maintenance.
I have got two videos:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ElggqjO...5bQAu/view

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EgxzTIq...W_1jW/view

First is showing the initial startup of the car - it's starting right away and has great fuel pressure coming from the new fuel pump.

The other video shows revving the engine a bit harder, and there is a hesitation/popping of the engine a little bit at higher RPMs (seen at approx. 9, 12, and 14 seconds). The car was sitting for a while and old fuel pump was clogged up with bad petrol. The problem might go away after the next couple of tanks but also might stay. They suggest to rebuild the Fuel Distributor und Warm-up / Control Pressure Regulator.

Do you think this is normal and will go away after some driving or should I get the refurbished parts?

Many thanks for your opinions!

Azar]]>
They have installed a new fuel pump with all the parts. Also did a major maintenance.
I have got two videos:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ElggqjO...5bQAu/view

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EgxzTIq...W_1jW/view

First is showing the initial startup of the car - it's starting right away and has great fuel pressure coming from the new fuel pump.

The other video shows revving the engine a bit harder, and there is a hesitation/popping of the engine a little bit at higher RPMs (seen at approx. 9, 12, and 14 seconds). The car was sitting for a while and old fuel pump was clogged up with bad petrol. The problem might go away after the next couple of tanks but also might stay. They suggest to rebuild the Fuel Distributor und Warm-up / Control Pressure Regulator.

Do you think this is normal and will go away after some driving or should I get the refurbished parts?

Many thanks for your opinions!

Azar]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6031 Sun, 26 Jan 2020 10:31:19 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6031 Long time without posting. I took a bit of a DeLorean hiatus after 2 years of continued issues. The Summer 2019 issues with my car I've only had time to start looking at now, so was looking for some advice. The problems seem likely to be multiple issues, but manifested as low power, warm start issues, stalling on anything but gentle acceleration, no power above 15 mph.

Work done on the fuel system in advance of the problems;

• Fuel Pump replaced summer 2016, new in-tank filter screen and spring in pickup hose
  
• New fuel filter, fuel lines (amongst other VoD work) Christmas 2017
  
• No fueling issues summer 2018, but did have a sticky high idle
  
• Observed hot-start issues in Autumn 2018, Accumulator replaced December 2018 due to this
  

Work/tests done since investigating the issue

• New fuel pump fitted, as this was my initial suspect (2016 pump had gotten loud enough I could hear it in cabin)
  
• Fuel pump voltage tested (12v on the money)
  
• Hot-start o-rings replaced on PPR
  
• Car holds 42 PSI rest pressure for 1+ hour, so accumulator seems good.
  
• Fuel Pressure tested. 50 PSI control pressure, 59 PSI primary pressure
  

That last one led me to ordering some shims from the other club. I started with the smallest and worked my way up but was noticing zero impact until I had added 1.25mm of shims, at which point suddenly my primary and control pressure were reading the same, and went up to 70 psi (I stopped the test as it shot up suddenly, so I could release pressure via the drain valve).

So I've returned the PPR to it's original state other than the replaced o-rings and I'm getting the original values on my pressure tests again.

I've done some reading of the various forums (DeLorean and otherwise) and not found someone experiencing this issue so I thought I'd put it up for some collective input before I proceed. The shims having no impact on the pressure makes me think I'm not getting enough fuel to the distributor itself...]]> Long time without posting. I took a bit of a DeLorean hiatus after 2 years of continued issues. The Summer 2019 issues with my car I've only had time to start looking at now, so was looking for some advice. The problems seem likely to be multiple issues, but manifested as low power, warm start issues, stalling on anything but gentle acceleration, no power above 15 mph.

Work done on the fuel system in advance of the problems;

• Fuel Pump replaced summer 2016, new in-tank filter screen and spring in pickup hose
  
• New fuel filter, fuel lines (amongst other VoD work) Christmas 2017
  
• No fueling issues summer 2018, but did have a sticky high idle
  
• Observed hot-start issues in Autumn 2018, Accumulator replaced December 2018 due to this
  

Work/tests done since investigating the issue

• New fuel pump fitted, as this was my initial suspect (2016 pump had gotten loud enough I could hear it in cabin)
  
• Fuel pump voltage tested (12v on the money)
  
• Hot-start o-rings replaced on PPR
  
• Car holds 42 PSI rest pressure for 1+ hour, so accumulator seems good.
  
• Fuel Pressure tested. 50 PSI control pressure, 59 PSI primary pressure
  

That last one led me to ordering some shims from the other club. I started with the smallest and worked my way up but was noticing zero impact until I had added 1.25mm of shims, at which point suddenly my primary and control pressure were reading the same, and went up to 70 psi (I stopped the test as it shot up suddenly, so I could release pressure via the drain valve).

So I've returned the PPR to it's original state other than the replaced o-rings and I'm getting the original values on my pressure tests again.

I've done some reading of the various forums (DeLorean and otherwise) and not found someone experiencing this issue so I thought I'd put it up for some collective input before I proceed. The shims having no impact on the pressure makes me think I'm not getting enough fuel to the distributor itself...]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5937 Tue, 12 Feb 2019 08:23:06 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5937
I have just replaced the fuel pump and associated gubbins with a kit. I am at a loss now its gone back together as to a hose clip "SP10830" which is on the return feed from the pump.

https://www.deloreango.com/uk/stainless-...-clip.html

On the original it looks like its just on the hose. However the description

"W1 steel spring clip to seal the metal pipe on the inside of the fuel pump boot. Without this you will have fuel on top of the fuel pump when the tank is full."

Any pointers....]]>
I have just replaced the fuel pump and associated gubbins with a kit. I am at a loss now its gone back together as to a hose clip "SP10830" which is on the return feed from the pump.

https://www.deloreango.com/uk/stainless-...-clip.html

On the original it looks like its just on the hose. However the description

"W1 steel spring clip to seal the metal pipe on the inside of the fuel pump boot. Without this you will have fuel on top of the fuel pump when the tank is full."

Any pointers....]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5858 Thu, 02 Aug 2018 08:46:23 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5858
I have a very similar problem to Nick H where my car becomes stuttery and hesitant under load:
http://deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5821

But in my case I strongly suspect it's my fuel pump. A couple of months back I took my car down to Alex Canini near Hastings for a tune up and suspension work.
He discovered that my fuel pump would change output depending on what angle it was placed in!
It's not something I had noticed before but now that my car is much more stable handling wise and after tuning I find myself driving her faster.


Our working theory is that under heavy load the pump is shifting slightly and cutting out, as the car slows and it moves back normal flow is returned resulting in the pulling feeling I get.

The previous owner had replaced the pump about 3 years ago but seems it's a bit of a noddy-no-make. Assuming it is the pump what's the best one to replace it with?
I know there is an all in one jobby with the filter built in from the likes of Special T or should I go with the more traditional one sold by DeLorean Go?]]>
I have a very similar problem to Nick H where my car becomes stuttery and hesitant under load:
http://deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5821

But in my case I strongly suspect it's my fuel pump. A couple of months back I took my car down to Alex Canini near Hastings for a tune up and suspension work.
He discovered that my fuel pump would change output depending on what angle it was placed in!
It's not something I had noticed before but now that my car is much more stable handling wise and after tuning I find myself driving her faster.


Our working theory is that under heavy load the pump is shifting slightly and cutting out, as the car slows and it moves back normal flow is returned resulting in the pulling feeling I get.

The previous owner had replaced the pump about 3 years ago but seems it's a bit of a noddy-no-make. Assuming it is the pump what's the best one to replace it with?
I know there is an all in one jobby with the filter built in from the likes of Special T or should I go with the more traditional one sold by DeLorean Go?]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5850 Mon, 16 Jul 2018 16:31:28 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5850         In need of a bit of help please. 
I have been working on the stuttering under load problem on my car.
Good news is that I have completely fixed that problem. Turned out to be injectors and CPR. 
New injectors and CPR sorted it. I also replaced the metering head while I was at it as it had been replaced in the States with a B28F Volvo unit by PO.

I got the CO set at 1.5%. Lambda disconnected.

Car starts perfect from cold. 
Car would not start from hot without lots of cranking. Even if only left for a minute.

I suspected the special t new style fuel pump check valve (as the similar unit from DMCH has had check valve issues). I installed a brass inline check valve. 
Problem was still there.

Next likely culprit fuel accumulator. One item I had replaced 16 years ago so possible it had failed again. Upon testing it had a slight leak.
New accumulator fitted. 
Problem is still there.

I have found that when the key is turned the first time to position 2 the fuel pump does not prime. Subsequent turning to position 2 always primes the pump. So if I rock the key to position 2 and back to 1, back to 2 and the fuel pump primes and then to position 3 and car starts perfectly.

Anybody have any ideas on the likely fault? Maybe RPM relay?

Many thanks
Nick H]]>         In need of a bit of help please. 
I have been working on the stuttering under load problem on my car.
Good news is that I have completely fixed that problem. Turned out to be injectors and CPR. 
New injectors and CPR sorted it. I also replaced the metering head while I was at it as it had been replaced in the States with a B28F Volvo unit by PO.

I got the CO set at 1.5%. Lambda disconnected.

Car starts perfect from cold. 
Car would not start from hot without lots of cranking. Even if only left for a minute.

I suspected the special t new style fuel pump check valve (as the similar unit from DMCH has had check valve issues). I installed a brass inline check valve. 
Problem was still there.

Next likely culprit fuel accumulator. One item I had replaced 16 years ago so possible it had failed again. Upon testing it had a slight leak.
New accumulator fitted. 
Problem is still there.

I have found that when the key is turned the first time to position 2 the fuel pump does not prime. Subsequent turning to position 2 always primes the pump. So if I rock the key to position 2 and back to 1, back to 2 and the fuel pump primes and then to position 3 and car starts perfectly.

Anybody have any ideas on the likely fault? Maybe RPM relay?

Many thanks
Nick H]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5821 Tue, 15 May 2018 22:40:32 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5821  This happens when under load. Engine will happily rev smoothly when in neutral.
Car starts fine and idles smoothly when hot or cold.
Stuttering seams to smooth slightly if I floor the throttle or disappears completely if I apply throttle very slowly.
Anyone have any ideas? I tried a tank of super unleaded but still have the issue today.

Thanks
Nick H]]>  This happens when under load. Engine will happily rev smoothly when in neutral.
Car starts fine and idles smoothly when hot or cold.
Stuttering seams to smooth slightly if I floor the throttle or disappears completely if I apply throttle very slowly.
Anyone have any ideas? I tried a tank of super unleaded but still have the issue today.

Thanks
Nick H]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5755 Thu, 15 Feb 2018 12:26:57 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5755 As my main fuel filter does not appear to have been replaced in a few years I thought I would tackle that first.

It's in a hard-to-reach area and was stuck hard to the rigid fuel line but with a couple of attempts and skinned knuckles I was finally able to remove it, the bracket and finally unscrew the line coming out the top -Getting sprayed with a trickle of fuel at the same time!


Once out I re-used and fitted the bottom hard-line elbow and securing bracket, with new rubber strip to it to the new filter purchased from deloreango.


Re-fitting I connected the top hose with two new brass washers, replacing what was there before, loosely fitted the filter and bracket back to the frame and then with a bit of PTF tape around the bottom connector screwed in the hard line.

Now I have tried this 3 times, making everything as tight as possible, but when I start her up and check for drips I have fuel pissing out from the top and bottom connectors.
I managed to get the bottom one to almost completely stop but the top connector continues to leak. I've tried with a different combination of washers etc but still it leaks.
WHY IS THIS SO HARD!

Frustrated I tried today to do an oil change, something I have done before in the past. Unfortuenelty my oil drain plug must have got a bit mangled up the last time I did it and the tool I used before no longer fits. After trying to fashion various other tools to budge it I have had to give up.  I have a new plug from deloreango that takes a simple spanner fitting but need to get this one out first.

So much for tackling the 'simple' service tasks.

Anyway, just wanted to vent. I will try again once the smell of petrol, oil and frustration goes away! 

S]]> As my main fuel filter does not appear to have been replaced in a few years I thought I would tackle that first.

It's in a hard-to-reach area and was stuck hard to the rigid fuel line but with a couple of attempts and skinned knuckles I was finally able to remove it, the bracket and finally unscrew the line coming out the top -Getting sprayed with a trickle of fuel at the same time!


Once out I re-used and fitted the bottom hard-line elbow and securing bracket, with new rubber strip to it to the new filter purchased from deloreango.


Re-fitting I connected the top hose with two new brass washers, replacing what was there before, loosely fitted the filter and bracket back to the frame and then with a bit of PTF tape around the bottom connector screwed in the hard line.

Now I have tried this 3 times, making everything as tight as possible, but when I start her up and check for drips I have fuel pissing out from the top and bottom connectors.
I managed to get the bottom one to almost completely stop but the top connector continues to leak. I've tried with a different combination of washers etc but still it leaks.
WHY IS THIS SO HARD!

Frustrated I tried today to do an oil change, something I have done before in the past. Unfortuenelty my oil drain plug must have got a bit mangled up the last time I did it and the tool I used before no longer fits. After trying to fashion various other tools to budge it I have had to give up.  I have a new plug from deloreango that takes a simple spanner fitting but need to get this one out first.

So much for tackling the 'simple' service tasks.

Anyway, just wanted to vent. I will try again once the smell of petrol, oil and frustration goes away! 

S]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5504 Sat, 30 Jul 2016 06:45:00 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5504
They do 2 versions a sport system and a super sport which is louder. Feedback from them is that most go for sport and in their opinion this is the best sound.

Can anybody advise on merits of both versions?

Thanks

Ian]]>
They do 2 versions a sport system and a super sport which is louder. Feedback from them is that most go for sport and in their opinion this is the best sound.

Can anybody advise on merits of both versions?

Thanks

Ian]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5463 Fri, 29 Apr 2016 12:34:34 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5463 Has anybody done this? or is interested in having it done too?]]> Has anybody done this? or is interested in having it done too?]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5272 Mon, 26 Oct 2015 12:04:01 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5272 ]]> ]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5237 Thu, 08 Oct 2015 10:58:34 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5237
New to the forum and unfortuantly i do not own a DeLorean !

However i do own an Alpine A310 v6 which has the same PRV V6 engine and uses the Bosch fuel injection system as fitted to your cars

At present i am having major problems with the system - starts ok then either stops or belches out black exhaust smoke and in the end stops altogether and will not start for some considerable time thereafter

I live in Poole Dorset and was wondering if any member knew of a mechanic/ enthusiast locally who is familiar with this 1980's system who can check, repair and get me back on the road

I have replaced the fuel filter, air filter, and plugs but no change, been to a Bosch specilist who only advised he is not familiar with the system and will need to check the system over manually as he has no info / test equipment, when he quoted £55 per hour and it could take a long time with no guarantee of success i declined

Look forward to replies and help / advise

Regards

Dennis]]>
New to the forum and unfortuantly i do not own a DeLorean !

However i do own an Alpine A310 v6 which has the same PRV V6 engine and uses the Bosch fuel injection system as fitted to your cars

At present i am having major problems with the system - starts ok then either stops or belches out black exhaust smoke and in the end stops altogether and will not start for some considerable time thereafter

I live in Poole Dorset and was wondering if any member knew of a mechanic/ enthusiast locally who is familiar with this 1980's system who can check, repair and get me back on the road

I have replaced the fuel filter, air filter, and plugs but no change, been to a Bosch specilist who only advised he is not familiar with the system and will need to check the system over manually as he has no info / test equipment, when he quoted £55 per hour and it could take a long time with no guarantee of success i declined

Look forward to replies and help / advise

Regards

Dennis]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5108 Tue, 07 Jul 2015 09:16:44 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5108
Had my D MOT'd last week and she passed on everything but when it came to the emissions test it was above 4.1 and should have failed. My friendly MOT guy pulled it out at the last minute (ohh err) and let it pass but in reality it shouldn't. Last year she was fine.
I have not made any modifications in that area but I am still running with it's original CAT.

On a possibly related note, when I slow down quickly for roundabouts/lights etc she often struggles to maintain revs and stalls.
I assume I have some timing and mixture problem but am wary of messing with it myself in case I make things worse!]]>
Had my D MOT'd last week and she passed on everything but when it came to the emissions test it was above 4.1 and should have failed. My friendly MOT guy pulled it out at the last minute (ohh err) and let it pass but in reality it shouldn't. Last year she was fine.
I have not made any modifications in that area but I am still running with it's original CAT.

On a possibly related note, when I slow down quickly for roundabouts/lights etc she often struggles to maintain revs and stalls.
I assume I have some timing and mixture problem but am wary of messing with it myself in case I make things worse!]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5066 Mon, 08 Jun 2015 07:39:16 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5066
I noticed this weekend that one of the hoses from the distributer to the injector was cracked/split for about 5 inches, so I want to replace that rather sharpish. The ones in my car are black rubber and just slide onto the fittings at either end (there are no clamps holding them on). They don't look OEM, and seem to have been replaced with something generic in the past.

Can I replace the hose with a suitable length of generic "High pressure fuel injection hose" cut to the right length? Ed just seems to have the stainless steel ones available now rather than OEM ones, which I don't really like the look (or price!) of.

I'm thinking something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FSE-8mm-Bore- ... 1122377293

If so, is an internal bore of 6mm or 8 mm suitable? The outer hose diameter is about 11mm on my car.

Thanks,
Simon]]>
I noticed this weekend that one of the hoses from the distributer to the injector was cracked/split for about 5 inches, so I want to replace that rather sharpish. The ones in my car are black rubber and just slide onto the fittings at either end (there are no clamps holding them on). They don't look OEM, and seem to have been replaced with something generic in the past.

Can I replace the hose with a suitable length of generic "High pressure fuel injection hose" cut to the right length? Ed just seems to have the stainless steel ones available now rather than OEM ones, which I don't really like the look (or price!) of.

I'm thinking something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FSE-8mm-Bore- ... 1122377293

If so, is an internal bore of 6mm or 8 mm suitable? The outer hose diameter is about 11mm on my car.

Thanks,
Simon]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4781 Mon, 17 Nov 2014 21:12:29 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4781
Before I put fuel in the tank ( it's been drained for a year), I tried pressuring the tank by removing the fuel cap and blowing air into it.....

Needless to say, a slight hissing could be heard and the pressure would drop.

Is this normal, or is it leaking at the boot, sender, or filler? There is a fair amount of resistance when blown into, but it's not totally sealed.... Then again, if there was no vent, surely the tank would collapse as the tank was draining?]]>
Before I put fuel in the tank ( it's been drained for a year), I tried pressuring the tank by removing the fuel cap and blowing air into it.....

Needless to say, a slight hissing could be heard and the pressure would drop.

Is this normal, or is it leaking at the boot, sender, or filler? There is a fair amount of resistance when blown into, but it's not totally sealed.... Then again, if there was no vent, surely the tank would collapse as the tank was draining?]]>