http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/ Fri, 12 Jun 2026 10:19:36 +0000 MyBB http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6405 Sun, 20 Aug 2023 14:50:17 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6405
Friday - started and ran pretty well after getting the 2 fuel leaks sorted and stage 1 exhaust on

Saturday - Cranks but no fire:  checked fuses, relays, inertia switch and grounds

Sunday (Today) - still no fire even with a little brake cleaner and all plugs removed and cleaned (I did 1 at a time so HT leads wouldn't get mixed up), checked for spark which I do, and added 5L to the tank and still nothing.

so I'm not sure what I'm missing but I haven't touched anything that could stop the car from starting, Facebook lot aren't being very helpful by telling me "check grounds" or "battery is failing" even though I'm getting a good spark from the plugs.

could the ignition ecu be on its way out or one of the relays? I get a re-prime on failed start and I hear the relays clicking so I have no idea what's wrong

Help  ]]>
Friday - started and ran pretty well after getting the 2 fuel leaks sorted and stage 1 exhaust on

Saturday - Cranks but no fire:  checked fuses, relays, inertia switch and grounds

Sunday (Today) - still no fire even with a little brake cleaner and all plugs removed and cleaned (I did 1 at a time so HT leads wouldn't get mixed up), checked for spark which I do, and added 5L to the tank and still nothing.

so I'm not sure what I'm missing but I haven't touched anything that could stop the car from starting, Facebook lot aren't being very helpful by telling me "check grounds" or "battery is failing" even though I'm getting a good spark from the plugs.

could the ignition ecu be on its way out or one of the relays? I get a re-prime on failed start and I hear the relays clicking so I have no idea what's wrong

Help  ]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6401 Sun, 30 Jul 2023 17:38:26 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6401
Not a pretty sight at all! Replacement cylinder head required!

Thank you Chris for the support tool.

This valves facing the wrong way!


  37BC5BD7-7128-4F6A-B664-1A08D5338A84.jpeg (Size: 2.73 MB / Downloads: 26)

Valve insert and lip missing 25%


  ED6E3283-EA72-4095-BACC-2F53905DC4D5.jpeg (Size: 3.41 MB / Downloads: 26)

Piston will polish


  3FF04E3F-7CD5-42D9-9728-B2B0D8C4E803.jpeg (Size: 3.65 MB / Downloads: 26) ]]>
Not a pretty sight at all! Replacement cylinder head required!

Thank you Chris for the support tool.

This valves facing the wrong way!


  37BC5BD7-7128-4F6A-B664-1A08D5338A84.jpeg (Size: 2.73 MB / Downloads: 26)

Valve insert and lip missing 25%


  ED6E3283-EA72-4095-BACC-2F53905DC4D5.jpeg (Size: 3.41 MB / Downloads: 26)

Piston will polish


  3FF04E3F-7CD5-42D9-9728-B2B0D8C4E803.jpeg (Size: 3.65 MB / Downloads: 26) ]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6382 Wed, 10 May 2023 09:03:01 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6382
Bosch part, and plugs look the same, but a different part number.]]>
Bosch part, and plugs look the same, but a different part number.]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6350 Tue, 27 Dec 2022 14:03:53 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6350 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6306 Fri, 27 May 2022 18:39:28 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6306
After my first little trip out I noticed that there was no oil pressure the reading just disapeared, after a little messing with the sender unit which is leaking oil i got a pressure reading but this keeps happening so im going to replace it.

But I also noticed no oil warning light so I replaced the pressure switch still no light   so ive tested the circuit from the unit to the firewall plug and thats ok is there anyway I can test from the firewall plug to the dash short of removing the dash to see if the bulb is dead .

could I send a feed down it or is it a ground that is required to see if i have a dash light.

any help would be appreciated.

Thanks 

Mich]]>
After my first little trip out I noticed that there was no oil pressure the reading just disapeared, after a little messing with the sender unit which is leaking oil i got a pressure reading but this keeps happening so im going to replace it.

But I also noticed no oil warning light so I replaced the pressure switch still no light   so ive tested the circuit from the unit to the firewall plug and thats ok is there anyway I can test from the firewall plug to the dash short of removing the dash to see if the bulb is dead .

could I send a feed down it or is it a ground that is required to see if i have a dash light.

any help would be appreciated.

Thanks 

Mich]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6290 Mon, 28 Mar 2022 16:45:38 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6290 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6282 Sun, 06 Mar 2022 18:39:49 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6282
My car starts first time and ticks over bang on 750rpm. At idle it sounds fine but as soon as you give it a bit of gas it starts popping occasionally. In addition to this power is well down and tops out at around 50mph. 
Has anyone seen this before? Can anyone suggest a cure? I think it could be the injectors that are clogged up but it would be good to know someone has seen the same

Thanks!
Darren]]>
My car starts first time and ticks over bang on 750rpm. At idle it sounds fine but as soon as you give it a bit of gas it starts popping occasionally. In addition to this power is well down and tops out at around 50mph. 
Has anyone seen this before? Can anyone suggest a cure? I think it could be the injectors that are clogged up but it would be good to know someone has seen the same

Thanks!
Darren]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6266 Sun, 09 Jan 2022 14:06:21 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6266
Any other recommendations?

Thank you in advance 

-------------------------------

James (1982 RHD Manual Grey VIN#10271)]]>
Any other recommendations?

Thank you in advance 

-------------------------------

James (1982 RHD Manual Grey VIN#10271)]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6247 Sat, 20 Nov 2021 15:26:42 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6247
There's no room between the exhaust heat shield and crank pully. Even if I got the heat shield off, I'm doubtful the clearance will be sufficient to get a socket onto the crank pulley. Any tips or instructions before I start doing things the hard way?]]>
There's no room between the exhaust heat shield and crank pully. Even if I got the heat shield off, I'm doubtful the clearance will be sufficient to get a socket onto the crank pulley. Any tips or instructions before I start doing things the hard way?]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6244 Thu, 11 Nov 2021 12:00:09 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6244
So, I've got the DGo Cat bypass kit in my 'wish list'.

Not that I necessarily wish to worsen my emissions on purpose, but I do have reservations about a piece of kit (Cat) that, by design, sits inside my engine bay and deliberately generates very high temperatures.  And is now 40 years old (although I guess it shouldn't necessarily degrade much other than by use, and I've still got only ~12k miles on the clock?).

Eventually I plan to replace the whole exhaust system with the newer full-spec stainless job anyway, but for now the existing system otherwise is in functional condition (and I need to do some saving up first!), but ditching the Cat at reasonable cost seems a potential win to me.
Especially as it advertises a small bhp gain and better noise as convenient side-effects.. ;-)

Question is:
if I fit it, do I need to make any other adjustments, or is it just 'plug and play'?
(I've seen Rissy's awesome in-depth analysis of fuel shim adjustment and so on which is on another thread, and I'm just not up to that level of experience/expertise yet, so would like to avoid having to make that kind of change for the moment..!).

As ever, grateful for any advice!
Cheers,
Ivan.]]>
So, I've got the DGo Cat bypass kit in my 'wish list'.

Not that I necessarily wish to worsen my emissions on purpose, but I do have reservations about a piece of kit (Cat) that, by design, sits inside my engine bay and deliberately generates very high temperatures.  And is now 40 years old (although I guess it shouldn't necessarily degrade much other than by use, and I've still got only ~12k miles on the clock?).

Eventually I plan to replace the whole exhaust system with the newer full-spec stainless job anyway, but for now the existing system otherwise is in functional condition (and I need to do some saving up first!), but ditching the Cat at reasonable cost seems a potential win to me.
Especially as it advertises a small bhp gain and better noise as convenient side-effects.. ;-)

Question is:
if I fit it, do I need to make any other adjustments, or is it just 'plug and play'?
(I've seen Rissy's awesome in-depth analysis of fuel shim adjustment and so on which is on another thread, and I'm just not up to that level of experience/expertise yet, so would like to avoid having to make that kind of change for the moment..!).

As ever, grateful for any advice!
Cheers,
Ivan.]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6234 Sat, 09 Oct 2021 19:33:17 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6234
My car is now running with new exhaust fitted and governor replaced. I spent three weeks at a local mechanics getting these bits fitted (the exhaust in particular was a big job for me to attempt as my first task on the D).  While it was there he got the engine running the best he could and did a few repairs to get it through its MOT.  It has now passed and has arrived in my garage.  Plenty of bits to sort which I will be working through but the engine is still not running right and, frankly, I’m not sure where to start.

Please excuse me being a complete novice but I am willing to learn and do as much reading as I need to!  To my untrained eyes and ears….

The car starts easily whether hot or cold so does not appear to be any problems there.  When it has first started (from cold) it needs to warm up before it is ready to move and will stall otherwise.  Not sure if this is normal but does seem to be worse than I would expect.  As it is warming up it will stall if left unattended.

In addition the engine rocks at certain revs (and at idle) which the mechanic is convinced is a misfire (plugs all checked by him).  He was scaring me with talk of a full engine rebuild but I thought I would check with the experts here before start worrying about such a drastic solution.

Any initial thoughts on where I should start with this?  Things I can do to eliminate potential causes to try and narrow things down?

Any help is very gratefully received.

Jon]]>
My car is now running with new exhaust fitted and governor replaced. I spent three weeks at a local mechanics getting these bits fitted (the exhaust in particular was a big job for me to attempt as my first task on the D).  While it was there he got the engine running the best he could and did a few repairs to get it through its MOT.  It has now passed and has arrived in my garage.  Plenty of bits to sort which I will be working through but the engine is still not running right and, frankly, I’m not sure where to start.

Please excuse me being a complete novice but I am willing to learn and do as much reading as I need to!  To my untrained eyes and ears….

The car starts easily whether hot or cold so does not appear to be any problems there.  When it has first started (from cold) it needs to warm up before it is ready to move and will stall otherwise.  Not sure if this is normal but does seem to be worse than I would expect.  As it is warming up it will stall if left unattended.

In addition the engine rocks at certain revs (and at idle) which the mechanic is convinced is a misfire (plugs all checked by him).  He was scaring me with talk of a full engine rebuild but I thought I would check with the experts here before start worrying about such a drastic solution.

Any initial thoughts on where I should start with this?  Things I can do to eliminate potential causes to try and narrow things down?

Any help is very gratefully received.

Jon]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6218 Tue, 31 Aug 2021 07:53:55 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6218
2-3 weeks ago, the car was running all weekend flawlessly during the Silverstone event and the car has not been used since, until yesterday after refuelling on Sunday evening.

Now; as of yesterday with a 50:50 mixture of Premium and Momentum 99 in the tank, the car seems sluggish, especially at the upper end of the speed limit, and the car starts juddering, like mini bunny hopping at about 66mph in 5th gear.  If I push harder on the accelerator, it seems to push through this, but not to great avail because I'm having to have my foot hard down to try and maintain 70mph, particularly when going uphill.

Like I said, the only variable which has changed, is the fuel in the tank since the last time the car was running perfectly 2-3 weeks ago.  So i'm blaming fuel, and nervous at what 100% super fuel will bring me.  Will it even run at all!?

So I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this, and if so, how they've overcome it.  My thinking right now is that the super fuel has altered the timing of the combustion, meaning I may have to retard, or advance my timing at the dizzy to compensate.  Not sure which way right now, even if this is the solution.  At this point I'm just hoping the super fuel mixture hasn't cleaned and dislodged any "crap" in my fuel lines and deposited this into my injectors instead?

Any thoughts anyone?]]>
2-3 weeks ago, the car was running all weekend flawlessly during the Silverstone event and the car has not been used since, until yesterday after refuelling on Sunday evening.

Now; as of yesterday with a 50:50 mixture of Premium and Momentum 99 in the tank, the car seems sluggish, especially at the upper end of the speed limit, and the car starts juddering, like mini bunny hopping at about 66mph in 5th gear.  If I push harder on the accelerator, it seems to push through this, but not to great avail because I'm having to have my foot hard down to try and maintain 70mph, particularly when going uphill.

Like I said, the only variable which has changed, is the fuel in the tank since the last time the car was running perfectly 2-3 weeks ago.  So i'm blaming fuel, and nervous at what 100% super fuel will bring me.  Will it even run at all!?

So I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this, and if so, how they've overcome it.  My thinking right now is that the super fuel has altered the timing of the combustion, meaning I may have to retard, or advance my timing at the dizzy to compensate.  Not sure which way right now, even if this is the solution.  At this point I'm just hoping the super fuel mixture hasn't cleaned and dislodged any "crap" in my fuel lines and deposited this into my injectors instead?

Any thoughts anyone?]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6167 Tue, 11 May 2021 13:16:49 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6167 I wish to change the coolant fluid on Bessie as a matter of 'new to me' course - given the nature of the system (rads at the front, engine at the back, great long pipes inbetween), is there a particular or preferred method of draining down and refilling?  
Otherwise I'll just:
i/ disconnect wherever I can at the apparently lowest point to drain;
ii/ reconnect once drained;
iii/ fill as best I can;
iv/ start and run for a few moments;
v/ top up;
vi/ repeat steps iv/ and v/ until level stabilises at 'full'.
Any advice gratefully received!
Cheers, 
Ivan.]]> I wish to change the coolant fluid on Bessie as a matter of 'new to me' course - given the nature of the system (rads at the front, engine at the back, great long pipes inbetween), is there a particular or preferred method of draining down and refilling?  
Otherwise I'll just:
i/ disconnect wherever I can at the apparently lowest point to drain;
ii/ reconnect once drained;
iii/ fill as best I can;
iv/ start and run for a few moments;
v/ top up;
vi/ repeat steps iv/ and v/ until level stabilises at 'full'.
Any advice gratefully received!
Cheers, 
Ivan.]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6086 Sun, 11 Oct 2020 14:05:56 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6086
I would appreciate and advice fellow swappers may have.

I understand I need to.
Remove and swap sump and lower crankcase
Crank pulley
Alternator mounts
Oil and temp switches
Flywheel

I am planning on keeping all the Volvo fuel and ignition distributor 
Questions?
Do I need any other ecu or other parts from the old Volvo or old Delorean engine?
Darren]]>
I would appreciate and advice fellow swappers may have.

I understand I need to.
Remove and swap sump and lower crankcase
Crank pulley
Alternator mounts
Oil and temp switches
Flywheel

I am planning on keeping all the Volvo fuel and ignition distributor 
Questions?
Do I need any other ecu or other parts from the old Volvo or old Delorean engine?
Darren]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6027 Sun, 12 Jan 2020 23:14:12 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6027

---

  15788708744848999846947970283604.jpg (Size: 4.44 MB / Downloads: 60) ]]>

---

  15788708744848999846947970283604.jpg (Size: 4.44 MB / Downloads: 60) ]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5942 Mon, 25 Feb 2019 18:37:32 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5942
I've posted on FB about taking off my cylinder head  and received many replies / recommendations about taking the engine out to do the job.

So no need to discuss that here .

Does anybody have  / and would be willing to lend me the cylinder head tools namely the Sprocket tool J28858 

And the liner tool J28852.


Can anybody help out here - I'll pay all postage to get them to/from me ?

Thanks.]]>
I've posted on FB about taking off my cylinder head  and received many replies / recommendations about taking the engine out to do the job.

So no need to discuss that here .

Does anybody have  / and would be willing to lend me the cylinder head tools namely the Sprocket tool J28858 

And the liner tool J28852.


Can anybody help out here - I'll pay all postage to get them to/from me ?

Thanks.]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5903 Sat, 20 Oct 2018 14:10:12 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5903 On hooking up my new battery the fans immediately came on without the ignition on or anything.

Now I have fitted a few years back David McKeen's solid state fan and fan fail relays as well as a button to bypass the otterstat. Occasionally I have lent on the button by accident but it seemed off. David's fan relay also has a 'run on' feature that will keep the fans spinning after you turn off the ignition for a minute or so.
With both of these in mind I waited a minute or so to see if the fans would stop on their own.
Then I smelt the distinct wiff of electrical burning from my relay compartment!
The fan relay was red hot and smoking. I quickly shut down power and let it cool and when I pried the relay out it looked like this:

  IMG_20181018_135112.jpg (Size: 26.77 KB / Downloads: 23)

I found my spare, original fan relay and tried it. Everything seemed fine, the fans did not come on without the engine and the relay did not get hot.
I started her up and left her to idle for a while and when she got up to temp the fans kicked in and all seemed well. The only odd thing was that my fan override switch no longer seems to force the fans on, although I could hear a 'click' coming from the relay compartment.
I vowed to investigate further and contact David McKeen to see if he had any ideas.

A few days later I needed to take her for an MOT. On the drive over there I was stuck in some traffic but the fans came on and the temp gauge read normal, in fact when I pulled up to the garage the fans were on. But at some point during testing, with the engine left running,  they turned off and stayed off -resulting in the engine starting to overheat and dumping red-hot water out of the expansion tank overflow.

I cut the power using my battery isolator and checked the relays, seemed fine, not hot. I also in desperation took apart my fan override switch. On re-connecting the battery I wiggled the fan switch a bit and the fans came on! We topped up the water and I made a break for home.
A few miles down the road though I hear a click from the relay compartment and the fans stop again. Toggling and wiggling my fan switch resulted in a audible click from a relay but the fans not turning on. My temp started to climb when in traffic but was able to keep moving and avoid anymore overheating.

So what could be going on? Could my otterstat override switch be dodgy which melted the solid state relay? was the solid state and spare realy both faulty or is something killing them? Is my otterstat up the duff?

Any suggestions on where to look appreciated!]]> On hooking up my new battery the fans immediately came on without the ignition on or anything.

Now I have fitted a few years back David McKeen's solid state fan and fan fail relays as well as a button to bypass the otterstat. Occasionally I have lent on the button by accident but it seemed off. David's fan relay also has a 'run on' feature that will keep the fans spinning after you turn off the ignition for a minute or so.
With both of these in mind I waited a minute or so to see if the fans would stop on their own.
Then I smelt the distinct wiff of electrical burning from my relay compartment!
The fan relay was red hot and smoking. I quickly shut down power and let it cool and when I pried the relay out it looked like this:

  IMG_20181018_135112.jpg (Size: 26.77 KB / Downloads: 23)

I found my spare, original fan relay and tried it. Everything seemed fine, the fans did not come on without the engine and the relay did not get hot.
I started her up and left her to idle for a while and when she got up to temp the fans kicked in and all seemed well. The only odd thing was that my fan override switch no longer seems to force the fans on, although I could hear a 'click' coming from the relay compartment.
I vowed to investigate further and contact David McKeen to see if he had any ideas.

A few days later I needed to take her for an MOT. On the drive over there I was stuck in some traffic but the fans came on and the temp gauge read normal, in fact when I pulled up to the garage the fans were on. But at some point during testing, with the engine left running,  they turned off and stayed off -resulting in the engine starting to overheat and dumping red-hot water out of the expansion tank overflow.

I cut the power using my battery isolator and checked the relays, seemed fine, not hot. I also in desperation took apart my fan override switch. On re-connecting the battery I wiggled the fan switch a bit and the fans came on! We topped up the water and I made a break for home.
A few miles down the road though I hear a click from the relay compartment and the fans stop again. Toggling and wiggling my fan switch resulted in a audible click from a relay but the fans not turning on. My temp started to climb when in traffic but was able to keep moving and avoid anymore overheating.

So what could be going on? Could my otterstat override switch be dodgy which melted the solid state relay? was the solid state and spare realy both faulty or is something killing them? Is my otterstat up the duff?

Any suggestions on where to look appreciated!]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5860 Tue, 07 Aug 2018 19:58:25 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5860
First some background, as I think it’s related to the over revving.

I finally found somewhere to regas the car with a drop in gas.
Amazingly, the AC kicked right in and the system was blowing cold.

That was yesterday.
Fast forward to today, where I took 11477 on a 90 mile round trip.
As I completed the first 45 miles smoke started to billow from the rear.
I immediately stopped to inspect - but it was NOT overheating. It was in fact the AC belt being shredded and covered my engine bay in rubber.

On inspection the compressor pulley is not aligned with the lower pulleys. It looks like the garage overtightened the belt or bent something?? What should I look for to get that sorted?

NEXT issue is the main one.... over revving to 2100 rpm ALL the time. Now this only started after the AC belt issue above. Has the AC system enabled something to increase revs that is now stuck??
I’m stuck, and am not sure where to look first......

NEXT issue is the speedo. It stopped working on my journey home with just 5 miles to go.
I could hear ticking coming from the speedo before hand and it started bouncing a little.
When this happened in the past, I pressed the trip reset and pulled back out and it resolved it. But not today. Instead, the speedo just stopped working in its entirety.
Could the trip reset have broken something inside the binnacle?
The lambda box connection looks good as does the angle drive at the wheel.
I hope it’s not the angle drive..... 

On the plus side I’ve now covered 500+ miles and all is relatively well with 11477.....

Tris]]>
First some background, as I think it’s related to the over revving.

I finally found somewhere to regas the car with a drop in gas.
Amazingly, the AC kicked right in and the system was blowing cold.

That was yesterday.
Fast forward to today, where I took 11477 on a 90 mile round trip.
As I completed the first 45 miles smoke started to billow from the rear.
I immediately stopped to inspect - but it was NOT overheating. It was in fact the AC belt being shredded and covered my engine bay in rubber.

On inspection the compressor pulley is not aligned with the lower pulleys. It looks like the garage overtightened the belt or bent something?? What should I look for to get that sorted?

NEXT issue is the main one.... over revving to 2100 rpm ALL the time. Now this only started after the AC belt issue above. Has the AC system enabled something to increase revs that is now stuck??
I’m stuck, and am not sure where to look first......

NEXT issue is the speedo. It stopped working on my journey home with just 5 miles to go.
I could hear ticking coming from the speedo before hand and it started bouncing a little.
When this happened in the past, I pressed the trip reset and pulled back out and it resolved it. But not today. Instead, the speedo just stopped working in its entirety.
Could the trip reset have broken something inside the binnacle?
The lambda box connection looks good as does the angle drive at the wheel.
I hope it’s not the angle drive..... 

On the plus side I’ve now covered 500+ miles and all is relatively well with 11477.....

Tris]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5822 Fri, 18 May 2018 07:50:44 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5822
What i mean by this question, is:  is it "waggle-able" from left to right quite freely, or is it held rigid in place by the staver nut which holds that whole sprung loaded assembly together?

I'm asking, because for a while now, i've been suffering a "sticky throttle".  

In fact, ever since i disassembled the VOD in 2015.

The situation is improving all the time, with a tweak here and an adjustment there, but coming down the M6 three weeks ago, the problem exhibited itself again.
Not badly, but persistent.  It seems it only becomes an issue when the car is fully warmed up and been running for a while (something expanding with heat?).

What's happening is the throttle is getting stuck around the 2k rpm mark, and i can only get it to return to idle by stomping down on the accelerator quickly a bit, and letting go immediately.  Then it returns to idle.  The idle speed micro switch, as far as i can determine, is always being clicked, at least when the throttle spool returns to the resting idle point (which isn't with the tab on the spool resting against the vertical pin.  which i guess is another question.  Is it supposed to?  It hits the pin at full acceleration on the other side, but not when idling.  I tried to make it do both, but couldn't win with that.  I ascertained that even in this resting position, both butterflies are fully closed inside the throttle valve, so i'm convinced it's ok).

I'm finding that by releasing that staver nut (which i think is the only one on the entire car out of interest) another "notch" at a time, is slowly improving the situation, but it's starting to get that armature quite loose feeling and waggles quite freely.  In fact, the threaded push bolt which clicks the idle speed switch is now over to one side, only just meeting with the metal of the switch, rather than sitting nicely in the middle of it.  Others have demonstrated with their car that their armature is solid feeling and works fine with the idle speed returning, but if i tighten up that staver nut to produce the same result, then the throttle becomes really stiff and sticky.  Back in 2015, immediately after my VOD work, when we were driving round the Lotus test track, my throttle got jammed at 4,500rpm!  and i had to get out the car to push it back to idle.  That was before i started loosening off the staver bit by bit.

I'll admit that when i had everything apart doing my VOD, i disassembled that whole assembly to clean it all up, including the springs throughout that whole throttle area, and realised that the original rubber on that armature pinion had all perished and was crumbling, so i had to devise a replacement setup using nitrile o rings etc, and i'm wondering whether my rushed, under pressure effort to get me going ready for Lotus, was simply not good enough.

Sorry for such a long explanation.  A video would have been better than all these words i guess.  Anyway.  Any help or ideas or comparisons of what your car does around that area?]]>
What i mean by this question, is:  is it "waggle-able" from left to right quite freely, or is it held rigid in place by the staver nut which holds that whole sprung loaded assembly together?

I'm asking, because for a while now, i've been suffering a "sticky throttle".  

In fact, ever since i disassembled the VOD in 2015.

The situation is improving all the time, with a tweak here and an adjustment there, but coming down the M6 three weeks ago, the problem exhibited itself again.
Not badly, but persistent.  It seems it only becomes an issue when the car is fully warmed up and been running for a while (something expanding with heat?).

What's happening is the throttle is getting stuck around the 2k rpm mark, and i can only get it to return to idle by stomping down on the accelerator quickly a bit, and letting go immediately.  Then it returns to idle.  The idle speed micro switch, as far as i can determine, is always being clicked, at least when the throttle spool returns to the resting idle point (which isn't with the tab on the spool resting against the vertical pin.  which i guess is another question.  Is it supposed to?  It hits the pin at full acceleration on the other side, but not when idling.  I tried to make it do both, but couldn't win with that.  I ascertained that even in this resting position, both butterflies are fully closed inside the throttle valve, so i'm convinced it's ok).

I'm finding that by releasing that staver nut (which i think is the only one on the entire car out of interest) another "notch" at a time, is slowly improving the situation, but it's starting to get that armature quite loose feeling and waggles quite freely.  In fact, the threaded push bolt which clicks the idle speed switch is now over to one side, only just meeting with the metal of the switch, rather than sitting nicely in the middle of it.  Others have demonstrated with their car that their armature is solid feeling and works fine with the idle speed returning, but if i tighten up that staver nut to produce the same result, then the throttle becomes really stiff and sticky.  Back in 2015, immediately after my VOD work, when we were driving round the Lotus test track, my throttle got jammed at 4,500rpm!  and i had to get out the car to push it back to idle.  That was before i started loosening off the staver bit by bit.

I'll admit that when i had everything apart doing my VOD, i disassembled that whole assembly to clean it all up, including the springs throughout that whole throttle area, and realised that the original rubber on that armature pinion had all perished and was crumbling, so i had to devise a replacement setup using nitrile o rings etc, and i'm wondering whether my rushed, under pressure effort to get me going ready for Lotus, was simply not good enough.

Sorry for such a long explanation.  A video would have been better than all these words i guess.  Anyway.  Any help or ideas or comparisons of what your car does around that area?]]> http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5819 Mon, 14 May 2018 09:51:37 +0000 http://www.deloreans.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5819
Had to rotate the distributor way past the "hold down" bolt so this afternoon I'll be taking it out and re seating the distributor, thereby re timing it (static).

Have all the meeting unit/ leads and fuel pipes off all ready, to do it the afternoon.

I had my mate Tim a retired Volvo mechanic on hand - he had just literally landed in the UK - after his holiday in Mexico.
I also had young Miles over from Bristol.

In all the excitement the guys (not me!! ) failed to attach the bar to the throttle spool and were wondering why it wouldn't rev up - dohhhh. Even in it's rudimentary condition it ticked over !!

A big step forward for me and goes someway to alleviating my fears on buying a project car that didn't / couldn't run !!

Will take the ubiquitous video this afternoon if all goes well :-)]]>
Had to rotate the distributor way past the "hold down" bolt so this afternoon I'll be taking it out and re seating the distributor, thereby re timing it (static).

Have all the meeting unit/ leads and fuel pipes off all ready, to do it the afternoon.

I had my mate Tim a retired Volvo mechanic on hand - he had just literally landed in the UK - after his holiday in Mexico.
I also had young Miles over from Bristol.

In all the excitement the guys (not me!! ) failed to attach the bar to the throttle spool and were wondering why it wouldn't rev up - dohhhh. Even in it's rudimentary condition it ticked over !!

A big step forward for me and goes someway to alleviating my fears on buying a project car that didn't / couldn't run !!

Will take the ubiquitous video this afternoon if all goes well :-)]]>