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Starting problem
#1
Hi Guys and Girls,

My D is having trouble starting.... The starter will crank the engine fine, but it seems that it just won't ignite and continue with the normal engine operation.

I suspect it's the fuel pump or such... but I am not sure where to start. FYI, I charged the battery, checked all the fuses and they are all fine.... The car started fine just 2 weeks ago before I left it sitting.

Would anybody be so kind to brainstorm me? Thanks so much in deed!

John
Kind Regards,
John [DOC No. 8]

[Image: signature.jpg]
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#2
if you've checked all the fuses (it was a fuse that caused the same problem on my car last year),
then I would suggest checking the wires and connections to the fuel pump - I think the RAC man
put 12v to the fuel pump on mine, which made the engine start - so then it was a case of tracing
back.
Claire Wright  - Club Treasurer
Jul 1981 DeLorean - Flopsy #2292 
Aug 1989 Cavalier 1.6L - Guinney
Apr 2021 Mokka-e Launch Edition - Evie
#170
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#3
...I agree with Claire. First check your fuel pump. Make sure it primes when you turn your ignition to stage 2 before turning it further to attempt to start (you should hear it try to prime momentarily).

It may sound weird, but try waggling the power feed cables to the fuel pump under the access panel. I had an issue the other month where mine had become so contaminated with fuel leakage and the contacts in the cable connector were really dirty that they stopped conducting properly to get power to the pump. Waggling them with the engine running, I could literally stop the engine by getting them into a particular position. Disassembling the connector and cleaning it, and cleaning up the cables and then recoating them with new insulation and heat shrinking them sorted the problem, which first showed its face when i was driving down the motorway when the engine would suddenly cut out!

If the pump is running ok and fuel is getting to the engine, then try removing one of the spark plugs from the engine (keeping it cabled of course) and hold it very close, next to the engine block on the outside while someone turns the key in the ignition. This should check that the spark plugs are getting power through to them if you see a spark across the plug and the engine block. If not, then there is something to investigate there. (be careful when you do this though......you DON'T wanna get struck by lightening!)
Rissy
(Forum Member 288)
(DOC Member 663)

May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
Grey, Flapped, Black
Chassis: #1073
Engine: #2839

Main Car(s):
2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue
2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
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#4
Quote:...I agree with Claire. First check your fuel pump. Make sure it primes when you turn your ignition to stage 2 before turning it further to attempt to start (you should hear it try to prime momentarily).
They don't always do that....mine doesn't


You can test if the fuel pump is running by jumping the rpm relay contacts out while the ignition is off:

http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/i...jumper.jpg

If you fuel pump runs, you can eliminate the wiring to it

Try cranking the engine with the jumper still in place, if it now tries to start, it might be a faulty RPM relay. These are easily repairable, you don't need to buy a new one....
Richard H. DOC 365 VIN 1274
http://www.deloreans.co.uk
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are not.
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#5
Clean up the connections on the ballast resistor and replace the ones on the coil with eyelets if not already done. This is another favourite cause of working one minute, dead the next.
Martin Gutkowski
DeLorean Cars
http://www.delorean.co.uk
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#6
RichH Wrote:
Quote:...I agree with Claire. First check your fuel pump. Make sure it primes when you turn your ignition to stage 2 before turning it further to attempt to start (you should hear it try to prime momentarily).
They don't always do that....mine doesn't

Not all the time. Not if the pump is primed already, but if its sitting for a while, then it most likely will. Its a quick and simple check to see if you can hear anything, meaning power is getting to pump, in an non-invasive manner.
Rissy
(Forum Member 288)
(DOC Member 663)

May 1981 vin#1458 "LEX"
Grey, Flapped, Black
Chassis: #1073
Engine: #2839

Main Car(s):
2005 BMW M3 in Velvet Blue
2010 Honda Civic Type R in Sapphire Blue (1 of 115 made)
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#7
Rissy Wrote:Not all the time. Not if the pump is primed already, but if its sitting for a while, then it most likely will.

It has nothing to do with being primed or not, or sitting for a while. It's a characteristic of the system but it isn't -designed- to do it. It is useful though, but only a good test if it works. If it doesn't work, it doesn't mean the pump isn't working.
Martin Gutkowski
DeLorean Cars
http://www.delorean.co.uk
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#8
Thanks so much for the detailed input guys and girls! I will try and see if I could get it going this weekend... fingers crossed!
Kind Regards,
John [DOC No. 8]

[Image: signature.jpg]
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#9
stunned_monkey Wrote:
Rissy Wrote:Not all the time. Not if the pump is primed already, but if its sitting for a while, then it most likely will.

It has nothing to do with being primed or not, or sitting for a while. It's a characteristic of the system but it isn't -designed- to do it. It is useful though, but only a good test if it works. If it doesn't work, it doesn't mean the pump isn't working.


Flopsy never makes the 'priming noise' first turn of the key like Sorbet does (and Sorbet is quite loud too), but often does it 2nd turn.

Good point about the ballast resistors Martin, do you remember that Renault Sport night a few years ago when Flopsy wouldnt start and was blocking everyone getting out? Seem to recall you working away in the dark cleaning up the connectors, and then it worked - and they've been fine ever since Smile
Claire Wright  - Club Treasurer
Jul 1981 DeLorean - Flopsy #2292 
Aug 1989 Cavalier 1.6L - Guinney
Apr 2021 Mokka-e Launch Edition - Evie
#170
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