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Exhaust Stud Torque settings
#1
Hi Guys,

Obviously in anticipation for the new exhuast studs has anyone got any ideas for the torque of the M7 exhaust studs in the head?

Do we torque them up into the head and then install headers over the studs and then further torque the nuts or...

do we hand tighten the studs in the head and then install the headers and torque the securing nut?

I'll probably use 12 studs, that way i have a backup if any start to leak.

Look forward to hearing from you info

Rich
Richard Milliken
DOC 417
Vin #10163.

Kevin Milliken
#5959

[Image: Signa-1.jpg]
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#2
Studs just screw in 'hand tight'... use a dab of copper grease on the threads ...

Hang gaskets on studs , you can use a dab of normal lithium grease to 'stick' them to the head (this will burn off quickly)

Install manifolds over studs

Install nuts ... tighten to 7-11 ft pounds ... this is only really 'wrist tight' ... you will struggle to get a torque wrench on some of the nuts thou... just dont over tighten...

I used 12 studs too ...probably over kill but im only doing it once then...


richard Wrote:Hi Guys,

Obviously in anticipation for the new exhuast studs has anyone got any ideas for the torque of the M7 exhaust studs in the head?

Do we torque them up into the head and then install headers over the studs and then further torque the nuts or...

do we hand tighten the studs in the head and then install the headers and torque the securing nut?

I'll probably use 12 studs, that way i have a backup if any start to leak.

Look forward to hearing from you info

Rich
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#3
Excellent thanks for that.

I thought it would be on that lines, so I take it the heat will soon expand and take up the "slack" so it should be all snugg. Looking forward to picking the exhaust up

Thanks again

Rich
Richard Milliken
DOC 417
Vin #10163.

Kevin Milliken
#5959

[Image: Signa-1.jpg]
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#4
Hi there, Thanks for posting this as I was thinking the same. I still have to get a couple of my old studs out though. I was going to use 12 studs on each side too, but if any snap off then obviously I won't.
VIN: 6511
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#5
Dan1986 Wrote:Hi there, Thanks for posting this as I was thinking the same. I still have to get a couple of my old studs out though. I was going to use 12 studs on each side too, but if any snap off then obviously I won't.

Plenty of WD40 !!

You must be in a fortunate position to replace all the studs with the engine out of the car !

12 new studs are the way to go !

NickT
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#6
one thing i will say is all my studs were siezed in, plenty of heat and penetrating oil a few times,take your time dont rush it even if it means leave them overnight and im sure they will come out ok TT
DOC398
VIN#3484
Tourettes Tutor
I have the X factor
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#7
Dan1986 Wrote:Hi there, Thanks for posting this as I was thinking the same. I still have to get a couple of my old studs out though. I was going to use 12 studs on each side too, but if any snap off then obviously I won't.


Hey Dan I have a decent roller type M7 stud extractor you are more than welcome to borrow. It works very well on exhaust studs and as yet has never failed to get one out! And without using heat either as that can sometimes cause more problems if you have not done it before.

[Image: 31Jv5B2KpLL._SL500_AA280_.jpg]
Chris Spratt

Ex owner of Vin#16327 Grey 5 Speed was FLE 371Y
1998 Lotus Esprit GT3
1999 Lotus Elise
DOC 4
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#8
Hi Chris,

They sound interesting, how do they work?

If I could borrow them that would be great Big Grin
VIN: 6511
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#9
Hi Dan,

They have eccentric pivots on the "jaws" so the more force you put on the ratchet the tighter they grip so you get a good purchase to unscrew the stud.

Not so good if you want to re use the stud as the can crush the thread. Excellent if you just want to get an old stud out....providing there's enough stud sticking out to get a grip of.

Regards
D
VIN 4532

DOC-574
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