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+--- Thread: Headlight switch wanted (/showthread.php?tid=3229)
Headlight switch wanted - bjbrownie - 13 Oct 2011
Has anyone got a spare dashboard headlight switch for sale? Mine has decided that it doesnt want to switch off the sidelights or turn on the dipped beam! Time for replacement methinks 8)
Re: Headlight switch wanted - MikeWard - 13 Oct 2011
Might be stating the obvious here, but have you taken it to bits and cleaned out gunk and cleaned up the contacts? If it still doesn't work after doing that, get in touch with Dave H who should be able to fix it up as good as new for you (he has spare parts to fix the switch).
Also, I found with mine that heat also affected it functioning correctly, since fitting the console and both the headlight and hazard light switches with LED's, touch wood i've not had an issue with it since. If it's not something you've already done, I would recommend making the upgrade, in fact I'm fairly sure I've still got the bag of spare LED's for the headlight/hazard switch, can bung a couple in the post if needed.
Re: Headlight switch wanted - bjbrownie - 14 Oct 2011
I havent taken the switch out the dash yet Mike, just fearing the worst case scenario of it being knackered. Will have a go at it tomorow and if you can spare a few of your leds I'll appreciate it, I've pm d you my address, thanks for the hint on the upgrade. 8)
Re: Headlight switch wanted - Rich H - 14 Oct 2011
The reason the headlight switches melt is that there is no relay in the sidelight circuit
If you figure the current draw on the first position of the switch, you'll have:
x2 front markers (assuming you haven't disconnected them for the UK conversion)
x2 front sidelights - from the UK sidelight conversion
x2 front side markers
x2 rear side markers
x2 rear sidelights
x2 number plate lights
x4 binnacle lights
x2 push switch illumination
x1 cigar lighter illumination
At an average of 4W per bulb that's 76 Watts or around 6 Amps. Given that most automotive switches are rated at 5 amps at best it's easy to see how the switch can get hot. Worse still, the plastic used inside the switch is just white nylon which has a low melting point.
The best fix is to get a relay put in the circuit if you want your switch to hold out for any length of time...
Re: Headlight switch wanted - bjbrownie - 15 Oct 2011
Thanks for the info Rich, does nearly 30 years count as an good length of time? Can't complain, I've had to change headlight switches on cars half the DMCs age! Going to take the console etc out now, I'll photograph the post mortem on the switch as I go-mask and rubber gloves at the ready! 8) :lol:
Re: Headlight switch wanted - Guinney1971 - 15 Oct 2011
lol, in a 'CSI Headlight Switch' way? 8)
Re: Headlight switch wanted - bjbrownie - 16 Oct 2011
I think sometimes all of 'ol stainless is a crime scene sometimes, Claire! Especially when you turn the key and all you get is a 'click' (a nod to BTTF, always when theres a few people around)!
Pulled the switch out, took it apart easily just using a small blunt screwdriver and care, inside the 2 brass contact strips had melted into the polyproplene holders (see pic) externally there was only a small burn/discoloration around one of the spade connectors on the base of the unit.
I carefully prised the metal contacts off the poly holders and removed the melted excess off the holders with a craft knife and a small file, reassembled it and it works! Still on the lookout for a new one as the headlight symbol has worn away over the years, but at least I've got my lights back working. Way better than CSI! 8)
Re: Headlight switch wanted - Guinney1971 - 16 Oct 2011
thats really useful info there Brian, deffo worth a write up with pictures for the Club mag
