Hey all.
So, I've got the DGo Cat bypass kit in my 'wish list'.
Not that I necessarily wish to worsen my emissions on purpose, but I do have reservations about a piece of kit (Cat) that, by design, sits inside my engine bay and deliberately generates very high temperatures. And is now 40 years old (although I guess it shouldn't necessarily degrade much other than by use, and I've still got only ~12k miles on the clock?).
Eventually I plan to replace the whole exhaust system with the newer full-spec stainless job anyway, but for now the existing system otherwise is in functional condition (and I need to do some saving up first!), but ditching the Cat at reasonable cost seems a potential win to me.
Especially as it advertises a small bhp gain and better noise as convenient side-effects.. ;-)
Question is:
if I fit it, do I need to make any other adjustments, or is it just 'plug and play'?
(I've seen Rissy's awesome in-depth analysis of fuel shim adjustment and so on which is on another thread, and I'm just not up to that level of experience/expertise yet, so would like to avoid having to make that kind of change for the moment..!).
As ever, grateful for any advice!
Cheers,
Ivan.
I'm not sure how much they are nowadays, I guess it depends on whether you'll use the car
enough in the interim before putting a free flow stainless exhaust on to justify the cost.
18yrs ago I think I paid £60 for one, but like I said, I've no idea what they cost nowadays, and
as I'm doing an engine swap on my car, its kinda irrelevant. I sold the bypass pipe that I had on
#2292 to another owner for £30 plus postage a few months ago.
They had a bargin Claire....they were £90 years ago...the full free-flow stainless system is about a grand now.....I had one fitted a couple of months ago after the 'inevitable " ex manifold gaskets let go.....as you all heard who attended the British Car Jouney rally....
Not too much more now, about £100...
Save the £100 odd and just get the full exhaust when you can
Most exhaust manifold gaskets start to leak ...eventually, and depending how the car has been stored, trying to remove the thin rusted studs can be very very tricky. Better to tackle the job sooner rather than later in my opinion.
I personally heartily dislike the origanal cross-over pipe, heating up all sorts of flammable stuff at the back of the engine. So I agree, go for a full stainless system ...there are a couple to choose from, both around the £1k mark.
we had a 'cat back' stainless system for our Renault Avantime V6 done by
MIJ Exhausts in Birmingham. That cost about £350, would have been about 10yrs ago.
We went the stainless route, because the backbox had gone, and Renault wanted £1500
just to replace that part!
Quote:Save the £100 odd and just get the full exhaust when you can
THIS, unless you can get a cat by-pass cheap. They can be very hard work to fit and end up removing half the exhaust to fit once you have broken all the studs. Save your money and buy the performance exhaust from Nottingham exhausts that fits.
I agree Chris,
I have fitted both types recently....the Nottingham one, the origanal one....(I know, as they used my car, 20 years ago to make all the origanal patterns) with its bolt together flanges, was by far the easiest to fit.
...Even on my lift I struggled with the other one, I had to resort to ratchet straps to 'persuade' some of it into position.
So... which is 'the Nottingham one'..?
Done a quick google and can find 'powerflow nottingham' and 'JAC Exhausts' in Nottingham.. (at least!)
Can you confirm which company in Nottingham you're referring to?
So, this is different to the one found on the DGo website then, yes?
Proper useful info, cheers!
:-D
This is them.
http://www.stainless-exhaust.com/
Super friendly and helpful chaps. I went there personally to see their setup and look at personalisation options available to me for getting mine made up a few years ago. Got it all running on my car now. Not the easiest to fit, but managed myself in an afternoon with a cup of tea in one hand. Sounds lovely. Much reduced steam/condensation on the 3 quarter panel glass when running in the wet aiding visibility when driving.
My advice is also to wrap the headers. Keeps the temperature down around the localised areas where the electrics are (supposedly also helps with efficiency).
(15 Nov 2021, 11:08)Rissy Wrote: [ -> ]This is them.
http://www.stainless-exhaust.com/
Super friendly and helpful chaps. I went there personally to see their setup and look at personalisation options available to me for getting mine made up a few years ago. Got it all running on my car now. Not the easiest to fit, but managed myself in an afternoon with a cup of tea in one hand. Sounds lovely. Much reduced steam/condensation on the 3 quarter panel glass when running in the wet aiding visibility when driving.
My advice is also to wrap the headers. Keeps the temperature down around the localised areas where the electrics are (supposedly also helps with efficiency).
Super. Cheers! :-D
Beat me to it Chris! I noticed the engine compartment seemed a bit hotter.....I'm just about to wrap my ' header pipes'....I suppose the old systems had a lot more surface area, so shed its heat easier than the new one.
That looks a jolly good buy...and as its already been fitted....should be fine.