My fuse box is becoming more than a little twichy and I am looking to install a more long term fix than just another OEM item.
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-pa ... lock-3.jpg
The above could be interesting. I remember the Maddie DeLorean has an unusual solution by using aerospace technology, is the owner of this car/Dan Willis' first DeLorean (or someone who knows of it) on the list who can comment more on this approach.
Inline fuses have the advantage of a single replacement for each socket which is an easy solution rather than the whole block being tarnished, although inlines could get messy and surely take up more space.
Any suggestions?
"Maddie" is Stuart's car now. Hana is the one you're talking about, Dan's second DeLorean. We have it in at the moment. My 2p on any change from original: Be certain you can permanently improve the system so it will never need maintenance again.... and whoever did the resettable circuit breaker upgrade in that car, did it VERY well. It would take a lot of qork to duplicate.
I'd replace with a new original one and make sure the spades are kept clean
how long is hana in the workshop for?
Are there no markings on the gubbins or a way to contact the previous owner?
How do you release the old fuse box so that you can gain access to the underneath. From memory I don't remember seeing any screws...
Chris Hawes Wrote:how long is hana in the workshop for?
Are there no markings on the gubbins or a way to contact the previous owner?
How do you release the old fuse box so that you can gain access to the underneath. From memory I don't remember seeing any screws...
just give it a good pull it should pull up but the wires underneath don't have interconnects.
i have just used inline fuses for the ones that have melted and it is a "get round to it" job to replace although doing the replacement is not hard just methodical.
Chris Hawes Wrote:Are there no markings on the gubbins or a way to contact the previous owner?
That's just it, you don't need to know which one has popped because it'll be sticking out. You just poke it back in. If you do something stupid again, it pops back out again. I've caught myself out doing the sat-nav/alarm/stereo/remotewing and phone kit in that car and it works a treat. You just hear a little click from behind the seat, look round, and hallo..... one's popped out. The wiring is beautifully done. must have taken hours. Tinny came with loads of resettable breakers as someone had aborted an attempt at replacing the fuse box - someone who DIDN'T know what they were doing. I had to splice back in a new box and half the loom from the engine bay connectors across to the idlespeed and lambda boxes which were all missing.
There are all manner of aftermarket fuse holders that you can slot together. Doing it neatly is probably the trick.
You misread what I meant. By markings I meant a trace to where the components came from so that they can be duplicated. I am curious to know if any of the paperwork with Hana, or even Dan Willis can lead us back to which Aerospace company the parts were sourced from.
I have no problem doing a proper job on this, as an OEM item has to be cleaned and everytime you re-insert that fuse the connection is not quite as good as it was, heat is produced and then the whole cycle starts all over again.
The below shows the process for changing the DMC fusebox
http://www.delorean.com/files/Fusebox%2 ... fusebox%22
Does anyone have the special-t-auto fusebox?
![[Image: fuse-block-3.jpg]](http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/fuse-block-3.jpg)
It is claimed to be 300% thicker on the contact material.. Although at $119.95 PLUS fuses it definately costs more than the OEM item.
Cheers
Be sure to specify insulated or non-insulated crimps. You need non insulated to do a fuse box. My tool is a multi-purpose wire stripping tool that has the non-insulated crimpy bit in it. I use a ratchet one for the insulated crimps
Looks similar to mine although i got mine from RS as i use mine a lot.
This would be stronger than those naff ones you get free with 100 crimps as they aren't strong enough and rip the insulation off.
NickT.
chris
you will be needing a new fuse box with all the new bits you have just put in my god i thought herman cut off box & fuse box is big
with the big mains 20 amp 12 v relay on it
Chris Hawes Wrote:The below shows the process for changing the DMC fusebox
http://www.delorean.com/files/Fusebox%2 ... fusebox%22
Does anyone have the special-t-auto fusebox?
It is claimed to be 300% thicker on the contact material.. Although at $119.95 PLUS fuses it definately costs more than the OEM item.
Cheers
I personally wouldn't bother replacing my fuse box with another oem one unless you were after a concourse winner which my car isn't.
You can get modular fuse holders from places like "vehicle wiring products" in Derby but as yet I haven't got round to replacing all of mine.
As long as they are rated for the current, which is 30amp for fuse 11.
Also note that some fuse holders have a common link across fuses which is not correct for the DeLorean. They should be individually fused.
HOW MUCH did that go for?!?!?!?!?! I paid £12 in my semi-local hardware store in Tenterden!
![[Image: fbb6t.jpg]](http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/VWPweb2000/fuse-1/photo/fbb6t.jpg)