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Full Version: Binacle lights not working, hot rheostat
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Hi guys

My binacle lights have stopped working (the main illumination ones that come on with the headlights).
I was attempting to replace them with led's but after removing the binacle, changing the bulbs and reconnecting I got nothing. When I went to check my rheostat it was almost red hot! The rest of the lights in the binacle and console come on fine.
My rheostat has never worked properly, just spins around but the dash lights used to work.

I put the original bulbs back in but they still fail to come on and the rheostat gets toasty. I tried to bypass the rheostat by jumping the pins but only succeeded in blowing the fuse on my headlight switch (its a new DMC Northwest one with the white box)

The electrical tracks in my binacle aren't great and show signs of repair but can't see an obvious short on the light circuit.
Most strange!
So its either a problem with the binacle circuit or the rheostat, what do you think is the most likely?
Might be a silly question.

You HAVE made sure the correct rheostat connections are made, with or without the Rheostat in place?

Otherwise, that would be bad, shorting out the wrong cables.
Interested in this.
My dash lights worked fine until I one day rotated the dial (rheostate?) It turned to the stop and the lights went out.
What is best way to remove / check rheostate?
To remove just undo the two screws on the gear surround plate, remove gear knob and lift the plate you can then get to the wires underneath and remove the plate.
Steve if it's easier just pop down and we can compare cars, maybe easier to fault find that way.
Isn't plate/counsel also fitted at front?
The cover plate is "hooked" under the A/C panel. Once the screws are removed, it's just a case of pulling the plate backwards and sort of curving it upwards (remembering you have to unscrew the gear stick ball first too) so that you pull the gator up and off the gear stick at the same time. Just be gentle and careful not to damage the A/C panel throughout removal and refitting. This is of course, instruction for a manual. I'm not sure on an automatic car.
Looking online I think the rheostat is connected ok but not 100%.
Chris, might take you up on the offer, when's good for you?
This Monday or next weekend probably best. working longer shifts at the moment.
It's not that hard to deduce. The same coloured wires (Red & Orange) are linked at the Rheostat. The Red & White cable is the variable slider contact, which is connected separately from the Red & Orange wires.

Here's a picture to show you.
Top man, a picture speaks a 1000 words and all that Smile
Thanks Rissy but that's how mine was wired up to start with (I think that is the very same picture I found to double check!) but no dice.
I can do tomorrow Chris if it's convenient I think my central locking module is also kaput so would like to rule that out/get a second opinion as well. When is good for you?

Anytime mate
I Hope to be with you around 4pm, message me if any problem!